the mange

Im upgrading to 1200 watts soon, so ill either be getting a new single fi bl or q or maybe a second ssd. If i get the second ssd, the new box will obviously fill pretty much my whole trunk. I have a ski hatch that allows air to flow freely from the cabin back to the trunk, and my current setup is noticeably louder with the port open (sub back, port back setup). If i build this new box for 2 12s, would it be smarter to leave some room around the edges of the box and leave some room between the back seats/ski port and the box to continue to allow air to flow into the cabin or should i take advantage of every possible inch of trunk space and forget the whole ski port thing? Someone recommended porting it through the ski hatch.... that idea seems like it would just give me alot of port noise....

Would it be better to get a fully loaded bl or q? Sundown says the new 1200 is capable of closer to 1400 given you have the electrical to back it up.

Basically, im looking for a powerful sq setup. My current box for my 12 ssd is ~2.5 cubes at 32 hz with 600rms, which is why im looking to just get a new 12" to take the new power. I just dont have enough experience with this kind of power to know if the q could take it without cooking. Im pleased with my current ssd's sq, so perhaps it wouldnt be a bad idea to get another ssd and build a new box around 4.5-5 cubes? only problem with that would be fitting it in my trunk (vw passat sedan). The current offer for the q with free bp power is very attractive, but how would the q compare to the 2 ssd option given i have enough room for them? And what is the approximate power handling of the q with bp power?

im upgrading to the sundown 1200d v.2, and im not sure whether i should get a bl or a q. Im worried about frying the coils on both of them though, so I'm wondering if a q with bp power would handle it ok or should i just get a bl?

Ok so I have one 12" ssd, with 700 watts, and im upgrading to 1200+ watts with the sundown 1200d v.2. Im not sure if I want to buy another ssd and make a new box, or just replace my existing ssd with one sub that can handle the power (and keep my existing box). I was browsing and found the hifonics olympus "olm1612," which does 1600rms bl=11, mms=204, fs=35.5. Given this sub's fs, can I still tune it to 32hz? And what does everyone think about hifonic's subs? I have always known their products, particularly their amps, to be somewhat cheap and overrated.

just got this idea sitting in econ today listening to my awful TA talk about derived demand for labor... I know normally the alt isn't used for transient loads, but would it be at all possible to hook up a power wire to the alt and send it straight to the amp, using a high capacity cap somewhere along the way to stiffen the voltage during amp draws? I was thinking that in this scenario, the cap would be acting just like a battery

the ssa store's price for the 1200d is apparently 280. Is that v.1 or v.2? and how much longer will that price be available for the v.2?

Would doing the iso set up with one sub thats a year old and a brand new one cause problems if they have different excursions during the time it takes to "break in" the new sub even if they're not hitting eachother?

I have one 12" fi ssd in a 2.5 ft^3 box, tuned ~32 hz. Im planning on getting the sundown 1200d v.2 with another 12" ssd. I'm thinking about attaching the new sub to the front of the current one, (so the cones are facing eachother), granted they'd be out of phase and far enough apart so the surrounds dont make contact. Im wondering if this will produce the same or worse sound quality than I'd get with a regular 5.0 ft^3 box for the 2 subs. This way, I could save what little trunk space I have left without having to make a whole new box. Should look something like this:

I currently have a 12" fi ssd (800 rms) with an alpine pdx 1.600 (600-700 rms), and I'm thinking of upgrading to 2 fi ssd 12"s with the new saz-1200d. I'm willing to upgrade from 4 to 1/0 wire, and I already have a yellow top, but will the stock alt in an 03 passat be able to keep up without terrible voltage drop?

Sorry, I forgot to mention I will definitely be doing the big 3 in 1/0 if that's the size I'll need. I think the stock alt on my passat is like 90 amps, possibly 120 but I doubt it. I just want to avoid an unsafe voltage drop when the subs are going.

i have an 03 b5.5 sedan, just wondering if anyone knows how on earth i should access the alt and where in gods name i can find the engine-->chassis wire.... its like a jungle in there... links/pics greatly appreciated.

that sounds like a good idea thanks. won't nearly all head units clip above 3/4 volume regardless of bass eq or subwoofer controls?

is it better to use only the amp's gain to adjust output (up to the clipping point), or use minimal gain settings and set the bass eq on the hu high? I'm thinking it would be better to just use the amp b/ you dont want the hu sending an already clipped signal?

im upgrading my battery, and im obviously wondering if theres some kind of limit as to how many amps the new batt could be before i start damaging the alt? and do bigger batteries NEED a big alt or would say a 1500 amp batt be ok with a 120amp alt? i guess i just need a batt that my alt can actually recharge.... im really clueless when it comes to batteries and alts any help is greatly appreciated!

so as you may know according to my sig, as i wait for 1/0 gauge in the mail, my amp frequently goes into protect mode b/ my sh*tty "4 gauge" wire lacks the capacity to deliver consistent power. if the amp goes into protect too many times, is it toast? it seems to be sounding a little funny lately... like it lacks the output it once had......

you get what you pay for.

i dont think so.. i'll pull it out tomorrow and check i suppose, but im only putting out 600w into a 800 rms sub in a (near) perfect box. i dont think its clipping either, my hu's bass eq is at +4 for bass and the number next to my low pass is at 5 out of 6. if its a coil gone bad i will prob go insane

NO! haha i thought that would draw a red flag. or a big NO!... caps are basically admitting that you or your car lacks the capacity to support your amp(s). i parallel them with kmart spinners. i would just scale down and make sure you build a nice (big) ported box for a 15 or 12 on ~1000w tops

wired @ 2 ohms (dual ones wired in series) also, the pdxs from alpine can apparently do 600 rms at both 2 and 4 ohms. if it can do 600 at 4, is there any way to mod it to get a more realistic number at 2? i mean it just seems ridiculous that it cant do more at 2 than what it can at 4...... i just got a multimeter from my grandpa for christmas (nice) so i'll check my voltage across my weak sauce power wire

you should probably get a big a$$ cap if nothing else. someone else on here noticed a huge difference with a 40 farad cap. its a big mother but it looks like your only option in addition to big three and decent battery This won't help your situation at all. Horrible advice

That is the best comparison Ive seen! yes amen brother that explains it quite well thank you.

I have one run of 4g to my 730wrms amp, with big three done in 4g, but I'm still dimming really badly. im almost positive its my batt, but i haven't tested my alt yet.. anyway, which of these batteries should i get (to replace stock batt): kinetik hc 1400 - ah:60 amps: 1500 kinetik hc 800 -- ah:36 amps: 950 or something else that will hopefully solve my dimming problem? i dont know much about batts, any advice would really be appreciated. thanks to all.

im about to do my big 3 in 4 gauge this week, but I'm wondering if I should just sack up and do my amp power/ground + big three in 1/0 gauge instead, for 600w rms.. would i notice any difference or would i just be wasting my money? (i have stock electrical w/ only 4 gauge going to my amp right now) thanks. this is my third question of the day sorry everyone!

now that i think about it, would it make more sense to wire a second smaller battery that would just power the amp alone? i have plenty of cranking power, so should i just get another cell in the trunk? how many amps would i be looking at for a 600 rms amp?