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the mange

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Posts posted by the mange

  2. Posted

    I was checking out weldingsupply.com, and I'm stuck between #1 and 1/0. Their "suggested ampacity" chart recommends #3 for up to 150 amps, #2 for 200a, #1 for 250-300a, and 1/0 for 350a. But going off these numbers, it looks like at most I'd only need #2, as my amp has 5x 30amp fuses (leaving 50 amps of headroom).

    On the other hand, this site makes it look like I'd need 1/0 for sure.

    Sundown said use 1/0 for sure, just wondering if anyone else could weigh in on this, since I can't find a reliable table for ampacity and wire size.

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  6. Posted · Edited by the mange

    If you go bigger the power handling of the sub will be reduced. It probably would not be able to handle the full output of that amplifier.

    I'll ask again, how did you set your gain? Did you just arbitrarily set it a little over half? What voltage does your head unit put out down the RCAs?

    My pioneer has 4v pre-outs. After reading this I just set it by ear and that's what I thought sounds best.

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  8. Posted

    His diagram is a bit confusing but I think he may have it correct... if the left side of the box (coil) is + and the right side is - then he has it in parallel.

    It is a matter of a few things:

    1) Needing larger power wire

    2) I read on *** that he also changed woofers -- the new woofer may not perform as well in the enclosure

    3) Maximum gain in theory is 3 dB anyway -- which to the ear is only deemed around 30% louder (10 dB sounds twice as loud even though 3 dB is double the pressure)

    Yeah sorry about that diagram I wasn't sure how else to do it with MS Paint. But yes the left side of each coil/box is supposed to be the + terminal. I'm headed back to school on sunday where I won't have my car but come summer I'll definitely upgrade to 1/0 and more likely than not a new box.

    Sundownz- what size enclosure would you recommend after all displacements for a new box? The current box is ~2.3ft^3 after port, sub and bracing. The BL is supposed to bridge the gap between the BTL and the Q so I'm guessing it would perform best in a more spl oriented enclosure, tuned closer to 35 hz maybe?

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  10. Posted

    I don't know your level of car audio knowledge so i'm just gonna throw this out..

    Are you certain you wired the sub up to a final load of 1ohm ?

    Do you have a DMM ??

    If so i'd meter the speaker wires disconnected from the amp to assure you have a final load of 1ohm...

    Also take a phone pic of the amps settings... last time a customer said these exact words and wanted to warranty the amp thinking it was broken i asked to take a look at it first. the SSF and the LP filter was off by a shit ton.. after i tweaked the filters dramatic improvement on sound...

    Dang I feel like a complete noob for asking, but just to make sure I've got it wired right, I have it setup like this: (d2 coils). Cause I've never had an amp with more than one pair of speaker terminals.

    speakerwire1.jpg

    Sundown says the channels are in parallel internally, so this is 1 ohm right?

    My gain is a little bit over half way turned up, LPF is ~70, SSF is ~20.

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  12. Posted

    Change that fuse, like now.

    What does your electrical system consist of?

    Yeah i read on the pre-sale thread he recommends the 1/0. My electrical consists of a yellow top up front, Knu 4 gauge, with the chassis to neg. terminal in 4 guage too. All my grounds are sanded. I "crimped" my wires to their ring terminals with a hammer tho last year, didn't know how to solder until a couple weeks ago. I think I'm just gonna do an electrical overhaul here and make it right.

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  13. Posted · Edited by the mange

    Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

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  15. Posted · Edited by the mange

    I have a ski port with a latch/door that folds down into the trunk to allow air to flow through. If its ported through the hatch, and otherwise sealed off from the cabin, would that yield higher spl would it be a waste of time/money? Im not looking for pure spl, I just thought this might let me keep my sq but make it a little louder. My current setup is a regular 2.5 cube box with a bunch of room around the top/side to get around to the back of the box and through the ski port.

    Here's my idea(s)..... And sorry that it looks like a third grader made these sketches.. its all i could do with ms paint....

    side view of trunk shape with ski port door open/folded down

    sideempty-1.jpg

    looking at the trunk from the outside

    straightempty.jpg

    top down view of new box design

    topwithport.jpg

    my attempt at an isometric view of the box..... (note this sketch doesnt have the 45 pieces in the port)

    sidewithport.jpg

    I would adjust the width of the port to try and get ~30 hz with ~2.5 cubes after displacements

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  17. Posted · Edited by the mange

    So say i set my gain at 50%, if i dont even plug in the remote knob, obviously the amp operates with 50% gain. But if i plug in the remote knob and set the knob to 100%, given the amp's gain setting is still at 50%, will i have identical output? or would i have to reset the amp's gain setting with my dmm?

    From what i understand, the amp's gain setting sets the maximum level of gain, and the remote adjusts the percentage of that gain setting you want to use. i.e. you have the amp gain set at 50%, and the knob at 50%, so you'd be using the equivalent of setting the amp's gain at 25% with no boost knob correct?

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  19. Posted · Edited by the mange

    do you mean you cant find the right wiring harness? i thought my hu install was pretty easy, except the 12v switched wire doesnt work, you need to access the 75x relay under the driver side dash. i dont know how to hook up fm radio to my hu though because our cars have the euro plug and I cant find the right adapter. any progress with your alt install?

    Ohh this might be my problem. I need to check out the ignition and the constant 12v because my new cdplayer now stays on (check out the other thread by me in the electrical section). As far as the alt... I still need to finish wiring up most other things until the mechanic feels comfortable with tossing it in.

    It looks like your constant 12v is working fine if its staying on all the time, bc the 12v switched (red) wire that you crimp in the wiring harness never gets any power as far as i can tell. The 75x relay gives you normal switched power that should turn off upon key removal. Try and snap some pics of the alt install if you can that would be a huge help i think to everyone who has passats who's lookin to do the big 3.

    To get to the 75x, you have to pop out the light switch that turns on your dash lights tail lights, etc, then just unscrew the hex bolts that hold the panel on that has the slot for the owners manual. The relay then is just a bolt basically towards the lower left where a bunch of wires attach to and its marked '75x' underneath it. This is what the tech at my dealership said to do to reduce the chance of a short, bc usually people just attach it to an existing 12v wire going to another accessory.

    And have you found the block to chassis grounding wire on your car?

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  20. Posted · Edited by the mange

    do you mean you cant find the right wiring harness? i thought my hu install was pretty easy, except the 12v switched wire doesnt work, you need to access the 75x relay under the driver side dash. i dont know how to hook up fm radio to my hu though because our cars have the euro plug and I cant find the right adapter. any progress with your alt install?

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  23. Posted

    Well I have most things at my place ready to be hooked up sometime soon. But theres one problem, thats with donig the big three with my alt. There is a plug on the back of it that plugs into the block, its a three prong plug and those seem to be 8 gauge wire. There are three wires goign to the block then two to the battery. I do not see a ground at all. Now I have no bloody idea how I would re wire all of that. I would need a new three prong plug able to support 0 gauge wire (I would think). Ill post pictures tomorrow of it but I am very confused. If anybody has ane experience with a 02-03 passat (same engines) PLEASE let me know! As of right now I am thinking I may be out of luck with any re wiring with the engine.

    NOTE: I have tried to take pictures in the past but its very hard to get a clear shot. The light makes it hard to see. Maybe if I just post the new alt "three prong plug" you guys will understand.

    hey ive got an 03 passat and im looking to do the big three in 1/0 too. I have the v6 so my alt is in a slightly different location, closer to the ground on the passenger side. I have no idea how im going to get to it let alone snake the wire back to my batt. Where is the block to chassis wire on our cars?

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