dave_Edwards

yes--it was a TRUE SUBwoofer not a woofer trying to be a subwoofer---that along with the Alumapro M16---2 of my favorite SUBwoofers---as for woofers---Brahmas are VERY hard to beat---extremely flat BL curve---and small box design---high power handling---long throw---XBL^2------can't get any better!

I am sick and tired of all the people asking questions and waiting FOREVER to get a reply---come to the chat room---we need as many people there as we can get.We have the room and we have some of the most knowlegable people in the "hobby" of car audio---let us help you!

which do you prefer and why? Myself enjoy a good powerful 2 channel instead of a 4 channel.

it is from the basic car audio knowlege site made by Perry Babin--I have purchased the CD(better than the site IMO) but if you want to dig through all of it be my guest http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm

Sterile?What do you mean?I guess some people like distortion in there speakers FROM THE ADIRE AUDIO SITE---- XBL2 technology was first deployed in our own Brahma series subwoofers. Besides offering extreme levels of linear excursion, this new technology greatly flattens the BL curve of loudspeakers. And a flatter BL curve means lower distortion - greater linearity. In fact, drivers using this technology typically gain 50-100% more completely flat (less than

DAMN good sub there!!!

that is true---but when power is applied to a subwoofer-- the voice coils are not heated as much as they are when more power is applied to them.

ok ok Brahma or W7---that is the best debate i think in a long while in car audio and yet all the W7 lovers hate to see that the Brahma is a better value.

a Clarion ProAudio DXZ615---nothing fancy---it is just a volume knob and a CD player for me---I might be in the market to buy a new one soon though.

that would be compromising the tests---don't you think?Take the practice tests and see how you do. Good luck

OHM'S law There are 2 base formulae which will help you to understand the relationship between current , voltage , resistance and power . If you have any two of the parameters, you can calculate the other two parameters. OHM'S LAW BASE FORMULAS P=I*E E=I*R TO FIND VOLTAGE E=P/I E=I*R E=SQR(P*R) TO FIND CURRENT I=P/E I=E/R I=SQR(P/R) TO FIND POWER P=I*E P=E2/R P=I2*R TO FIND RESISTANCE R=E2/P R=E/I R=P/I2 P = Power in Watts E = Electromotive Force in Volts I = Electrical Current in Amps R = Electrical Resistance in Ohms SQR = Square Root Note: I use 'E' to represent voltage most of the time but sometimes you'll see 'V' used for voltage. Don't let it confuse you. Remember Fuses: I've been in the electronics repair business since about 1996 and have come to believe that most people don't understand the function of a fuse, or they just like to let the smoke out of electronic devices (transistors, resistors...). Note: Letting the smoke out of an electronic device is a process which converts a useful piece of electronic equipment into a paper weight. Function: A fuse is generally inserted into an electrical circuit for 1 of 2 reasons, either to protect the power source which includes the wire that connects the power supply to the electrical device, or to protect the electronic equipment. The electronic equipment manufacturers specify a fuse rated to open the electrical circuit before damage can be done to the device or open the circuit if the electronic device fails in some way (electronic devices may pull excessive current when they fail). If a fuse larger than the specified fuse is used, a small mistake when installing the equipment may cause catastrophic failure of the equipment. WHEN, not if, WHEN you're thinking of replacing a blown fuse with a higher rated fuse ask yourself if you know more than the engineer who designed the equipment. Don't get in a hurry when installing electronic equipment. Take the time to go get the right fuse. 50 cents for a fuse is better than $50 labor plus the cost of the replacement parts for a repair job. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- In most cases, the wire size is reduced at the point of distribution. ANY time that the wire size is reduced, you must add a fuse in the line. Using multiple small wires in place of a larger wire: Some people may want to use a bunch of smaller, individually insulated, wires (like ten 14g wires) in place of one larger wire (like a 4g wire). This may be OK as far as current carrying capacity is concerned but the problem comes in when you have to fuse it. A 4g wire can handle about 125 amps. A 14g wire can handle about 15 amps. If one of the strands of the 14g wire is shorted to ground (like where it runs through the firewall), the main 125 amp fuse would not blow and the wire would burn. To properly protect the multiple strands of insulated wire, you'd have to use ten 15 amp fuses in individual holders (each wire would have its own fuse). I know that this may be an 'off the wall' situation but I've had several emails about this (generally concerning two or three 8g wires and a large wafer fuse) so there are, at least, a few people who don't fully understand this. Suggested Fuse Sizes: Wire Gauge Recommended Maximum Fuse Size 00 awg --------400 amps 0 awg--------- 325 amps 1 awg--------- 250 amps 2 awg--------- 200 amps 4 awg--------- 125 amps 6 awg--------- 80 amps 8 awg--------- 50 amps 10 awg------- 30 amps 12 awg------- 20 amps 14 awg-------- 15 amps 16 awg-------- 7.5 amps These are the recommended maximum fuse ratings for the corresponding wire size. Using a smaller fuse than what's recommended here will be perfectly safe. Fuse Opening Time: A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different. %of amp rating Opening time 110% 4 hours minimum 135% 1 hour maximum 200% 5 minutes maximum Circuit Breaker: A circuit breaker's function is, like a fuse, to break a circuit path when a predetermined amount of current is passed. In my opinion, circuit breakers should never be used to protect electronic devices such as radios, amplifiers or crossovers. Most common circuit breakers (thermal snap action) take far too long to open the circuit path. This does not mean that they are not useful. When they are properly selected they do a good job of protecting wiring and devices such as electric motors. Some breakers are self resetting. Others require manual resetting. I strongly recommend using a manual reset type. This will allow you to watch for any problems when the circuit path is restored.

they don't get too much bigger than this----MS1000 34inches of pure power---1060x2@2 ohm(each side)----my "lil friend"

sorry---it was me Dave---i forgot to log-in-------DUH!

This is my new baby Phoenix Gold MS1000

Speakers: A speaker converts electrical energy to mechanical/acoustical energy. It uses a coil of wire, which acts as an electromagnet, set inside of a magnetic gap of a permanent magnet.It is pretty simple if you think about it Voice coil motivation: When a current is passed through the coil of wire, called the voice coil, it generates a magnetic field. This electromagnet interacts with the field in the magnetic gap and the voice coil moves. The direction of movement depends on the direction of current flow through the VC. Since audio is an AC waveform, current flows in one direction and then changes polarity, the VC moves either forward or backward from its point of rest. The cone is the part of the speaker that actually makes the sound by alternately creating an area of high and then low air pressure. Magnitude of cone movement: When an amplifier drives a speaker, it is driving the speaker terminals with AC voltage. If the volume is at its minimum position, the speaker doesn't move. If the driving voltage is low, the speaker moves a little. As the voltage increases (when you turn up the volume), the cone moves further from it's point of rest. Higher power amplifiers can drive the speaker with higher voltage and therefore produce more SPL (volume). ********Please note that speakers DO NOT produce power**********. A speaker rated at 1000 watts is not necessarily going to be more efficient than a speaker rated at 50 watts. If they are manufactured by the same company (so that they are rated by the same standards), the speaker rated to handle higher power will be able to produce more sound pressure level because it can be driven with a more powerful amplifier without fear of damage. Many times, a manufacturers cheapest woofers will be more efficient and may be a better choice for a low powered system. Coaxials and Triaxials: It is very difficult (read impossible) to build a single driver capable of accurately and efficiently reproducing the entire audio spectrum. It is much easier to use multiple drivers, each reproducing its own narrow band of frequencies. Coaxial speakers are 2-way speakers which employ a larger driver (for bass and midrange) and a tweeter (for reproducing upper midrange and treble). A triaxial speaker is a 3-way speaker with a woofer, a midrange and a tweeter. Both types of speakers usually include the required crossover components for the midrange and high frequency drivers.

Amplifier bridging is simply using 2 driven output channels to drive a common load. For 2 channel amplifiers, one left signal and one right signal is used to drive a mono speaker load. Keep in mind that mono and bridging are not necessarily the same. Mono means that there's only one output signal. There could be more than one speaker but each speaker will have the same output. Bridging means that you are using more than one source of power to drive a load (speaker). The sources of power are one each output from either channel of the amplifier. A long time ago, amplifiers had signal on the positive output speaker terminals only. To bridge one of those amplifiers, you'd have to use some means to invert the signal on one channel (remember the old 'bridging modules' for Orion amplifiers?). Today's bridgeable amplifiers have an inverted channel as part of their design. For many amplifiers, the left positive and right negative are are the signal outputs. A few use the left negative and the right positive. Others still (mostly mono amplifiers that are to be used in bridged pairs) require that you choose 0

hmmm----new power supply---new output devices---new transistors----the usual---should cost about 50$ for the parts and a few hours at the bench. PS---it will be a while for me to touch anything now---i just closed down my test bench area---too cold in North Dakota now to work outside for too long.

what all would you like to know?

just tell me what mods you want----more voltage input--higher current draw---whatever----I am in the process of moving so I won't be able to do it for a while---but I can point you in the right direction on who I would trust to do it.

thank you all----I will be here when needed.

hi----it's me---Dave Edwards here