holley2346

My gains are set correctly, I appreciate your input but ruining top dollar equipment is not on my to do list. I'd also like to add that my gains aren't set at full potential, and neither were the subs played at full potential. I'm not about harming my equipment just so I can hear some loud sound for a few minutes.

I hope so... I've spent plenty of $$ with them to at least get a recone and some epoxy out of it.... I really don't care what the thing looks like as long as it performs well.... and I am not impressed in the performance department, especially compared to the gen2... But who knows, the numbers may blow my socks off.... I am over a 150 already with plenty of room to grow wattage wise and box efficiency wise. SPL isn't what I'm doubting, the quality of the sound is what I'm not impressed with.... compared to the gen2.

The amp is rated at 3000 watts at 1 ohm at 14.4 volts Since I haven't gotten my electrical problems fixed my voltage is dipping down far below this... therefore these subs weren't seeing any higher wattage than their rms.

Looking at the conditions I would expect something like this to be covered by Fi, considering that this is far from the only product I have purchased from you. But if for some reason it is not, there is not a place to order in the Recones section and I'd appreciate it if someone would contact me via phone / email. t - o - d - d dot h o l l e y at gmail dot com pm me for phone number. Any help is greatly appreciated

I tried calling you today about it but no response. I finally got my VCM today after a couple of months and hooked it right up. My problem is that it tries to charge at 19 volts.... it won't let me adjust the voltage at all. I have quadrouple checked the dip switches and they are on the correct setting. My alternator uses an exciter I got from DC power to run... when I put the vcm harness in between it tries to charge at 19 volts and won't do anything else. The only thing it will do is go dim and bright and tell me voltage... it will go into voltage adjust mode (blinking decimal) but the voltage won't adjust up or down.... I've hit both up and down hundreds of time. So as of now I'm stuck with a 150 dollar voltmeter. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Please pm me your direct number so I can call you around lunch. Its far from a simple single alternator setup. Thank you

This thread is inspirational.

VERY well put!! Now, for this particular question we have done a lot of testing so we have a good bit of experience.. That said, a 180 amp alternator in this car is going to give him about 120 "usable" amps over what he normally has, and with a couple of "good" batteries he should have plenty of adequate power under normal circumstances. The main thing to consider with a big amp like the 3500, is how is it going to be used. Is it in a daily driver that just bumps alot driving around, or is a comp vehicle. Kyles 3500 never pulled more than about ~100 amps at .5 on music at say 3/4 volume. On tones at .5 at high volumes, it may touch 180 BRIEFLY. In hours of testing, we NEVER saw over 200 AFTER we put a 270XP with a 15.1v regulator in it no matter how hard we pounded on it. Remember, music is dynamic and even though you may have a 3500W "RMS" amp, your dynamic load of the amp will almost NEVER exceed 70% of its rated power. If you calculate it to the letter for power consumption, 3500/15 15= 233 amps. 233/.8 (effiency) = 290 amp max power input required to make an actual 3500w of output power. Now, take 290*.6 (dynamic avg MAX current requirement on music) 174 Amps, which is the absolute MAX necessary for 3500 actual produced watts, which you will only see MAYBE 25% of the time. Will a bigger alt power it better, absolutely, no question about it. Will a 180 amp alt power it ok 90% of the time, no question... I'm trying to make sense of these numbers... I blew a 350 amp fuse with a 3000D at .5, at full tilt with 4 yellow tops the power wire from my alt was clamped putting out 170 amps of current and I still had voltage drop into the 11's on the amp inputs.... not doubting, just seeking information

I don't have room anywhere to add the to my front stage.... and they are deafening even playing from where they are currently located... I'm not worried about staging or sq, just to have plenty of fill... and they do this well. And tejcurrent - I will provide a full review upon further listening since I've only had around 2 hours of limited play time due to voltage issues.... I will say however I am disappointed for daily listening, I'd be more than happy to have the gen 2 motors... will explain in more detail in my full review.

My damaged 3000D comes back today, My VCM comes in today, another 250 SP is coming in Friday, and my tejcurrent triple bracket is supposed to be here Friday but he is waiting on a pulley for it.... I also have some knu 0 gauge that will come in friday or monday

Just as an update... I had some problems with my amp. This was due to a combination of low voltage and vibration. So to solve the voltage issue I am going triple alts, as well as doing the following; Before; After; And before anyone starts going on about mixing batteries.... they are all agm batteries with the same float voltage. The grey batts are 700 cca and over 100 AH. More updates to come.

Never got any stickers.... everyone thinks I have some off brand since my dust caps are blank. haha

I tried calling a few times today to no avail... I was wondering what the holdup on order 1295 was. It has been at the "awaiting shipment" status for a while now. Thanks!

Any update since its about the middle of january now?

I love my knukonceptz wire and rcas! But welding cable from weldingsupply.com is the real deal as well!

I've been slowly changing things on my truck inside and out.... well here is the product after 2 years. Next I'm starting on the interior, after that will be forced induction. I'm uploading pics that were taken off of my phone just because it is easier to do.

Im really leaning towards trick performance for my piping and turbo. Then nelson performance for the tune. Ill only run about 7 lbs until I build a forged motor.

2/3 drop would get the top of the front and rear tires about .5 inches from the fender well... I was really wanting to do it, but the amount of cutting I would have to do makes me think twice..... I appreciate all the compliments everyone. And whoever said something about not adding the chrome mirrors and trim and all that.... that's not my style.. I try to keep a good balance and not overdo any particular part.

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Forgot to add that I currently have the following audio components inside; Dual alt kit from DC power, soon to be triple alt kit Knu 0 Gauge 4 Optima Yellow Tops 2 Sundown Audio 3000D's (only using 1 at .5 ohm currently) 2 FI BTL N2 18'S Sundown 50.4 Q Logic Kick Panel Enclosures 2 Polk Audio Component Sets 4 Eminence APT horns 4 Selenium 6.5's AVH P4100DVD It sounds pretty good, I'm just ready for

I drive on 08 hoe.... you can install the alt yourself. It's 2 bolts and 2 electrical connections.. It won't void your warranty in any way but if your worried about it you can swap the oem back in whenever you go to the dealership. The real way to go is dual/triple alts. And FYI I had a 3000D at 1ohm on stock electrical with 2 yellow tops in the back for well over a year and never had any issues. Stock you have a ~140 amp alt I believe (I may be wrong... I never clamped mine).

I'm about 99% sure that they will have one.... but your not going to be able to maintain a certain voltage with the new technology that chevrolet uses to regulate their alternators...... I was forced to go dual... and soon triple alternators while keeping the stock alt connected to the stock electrical system, and wiring the dc power alts to my rear battery bank.

whats the email adress sir?

I recently received another 3000D for my setup... but it was damaged by ups. I am definitely not going to run this amp period until it is fixed, but I was wondering what the parts listed do and what the effects are if the amps are ran without these parts. Db-r said that the amp can play at low to moderate levels without side effects.... Just wondering what would happen. One of the main rail caps are missing along with one of the blue rectangular ones being half broken off.