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holley2346

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Posts posted by holley2346

  1. Posted

    Looking like we should be rolling at a better pace come Monday. We hope to have all orders filled and out before the end of next week. Looks like we have some of the molding issues sorted and will have a different batch of material in on Monday to work with. I appreciate everyones patience with us getting things sorted. Murphy's Law in full effect with mold issues and CNCs being down.

    Thanks,

    Scott

    This is good news :) my box is just sitting there waiting for the beasts to be mounted into it. :fing34:

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  2. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    You need to understand the fundamentals of ohm loads. :suicide-santa:

    Ohm load is a measure of resistance that the sub puts on the amp.

    If you have an amp that puts out 2000 watts rms @ 1 ohm and 1000 watts @ 2 ohm you would buy a dual 2 sub and connect the voice coils in parallel to the amp for a final one ohm load (and the sub will be receiving 2,000 watts from the amp. :fing34:

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  5. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    I really appreciate all of your knowledgable replies.... it is VERY appreciated. I am by no means knocking DC Power in any way, so far I love my alt and over all I love the support you provide your customers. So now comes the challenge... getting both alts to put out the same voltage so I can run everything together. I can fix the whine issue, I believe it's in the path my RCA's are run. The 13.x voltage issue wasn't aparent today (it was charging around 15.0 for the first hour it ran).

    If it's impossible to run a VCM then can I get a 4 wire plug alternator from ya'll? Then both alts will be the same type and I CAN run a vcm.... If I do this will my ECM start throwing error codes?

    If the MLA module will allow me to run everything together... and save me the expense of buying a 4 wire alt to replace the stocker + the vcm I'll do it.... but will this throw error codes? And can I get one that will hold the alts at ~14.9? I have no need to change the charging voltage on the fly, as long as I get a steady 14.9 I'll be happy.

    Thanks!

    Edit: I just thought of this... but could I just connect everything and run it as is? My stocker will be shut off and the DC alt will be running everything until I put a heavy load on the system, then my stocker will kick in and add the needed amperage.... Just a thought.

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  6. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    Wondering if anyone has used the 4/0 welding supply wire.... I have some interest in using wire this thick just so that I'll only need to run 1 run instead of a few 1/0 runs.

    I'd like to see some size comparison pictures or something.

    Also wondering how the 1/0 welding supply wire compares to the knu wire as far as size.

    I read some stuff on here about how copper is so much better than copper clad aluminum, and would like to change it up now.

    Thanks! :)

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  7. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    Okay so I ordered and installed the dual alternator kit on my 2008 tahoe. The install only took about 2 hours which wasn't bad. ***THERE WERE NO INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED WITH THE KIT ANYWHERE*** I did call the number and got some limited assistance. The person I talked to, Stan helped the best he could but gave me no 100% sure answers... so I'm left with some questions.

    Please keep in mind this is a 2008 tahoe with 2 prong OEM alt connectors

    First let me tell you how I installed it;

    (1) I ran the red wire with a ring terminal on the harness provided from DC to the positive output on the alt

    (2) I ran the white wire with a ring terminal on the harness provided from DC to a ground source

    (3) I ran the red wire with no end on it to a fuse that is only on when the truck is on (as instructed by Stan)

    (4) I ran the power wire from the DC alt to my stock battery (which is connected to my bank in the back)

    When I had it set up this way there was A LOT of load on the alt and it got warm pretty quick, so I disconnected the harness and called Stan. He notified me that the 2 alts HAD to be connected to separate battery banks... so I connected the DC alt to my bank in the back. After doing this there was less load on the DC alt, but the alt was only charging around 14 volts and was down to 13.x (just running a sundown 50.4 wide open).

    So after all this I'm left with lots of questions....

    (1) Why is the DC alt letting my bank in the back go down to 13.x volts when it's just running my 50.4 (I have no subs at the moment)

    (2) Did I do the right thing in running the red wire with nothing on it to a 12v switched source (as Stan instructed)?

    (3) I want to have both alts charging everything, not separate banks... I would've just ordered a single alt if I only wanted to use one. So what do I need to do this?!?!?

    (4) What does the harness do exactly that came with the DC alt... I was assuming it was some sort of a regulator, if it is what voltage is it set to?

    (5) I will get the XS power VCM if I have to, but would like to know a cheap simple way for both alts to be controlled by my stock ECM (which is how the OEM one works).

    (6) My alternator whine through the speakers used to be tolerable, but now it's horrible!

    (7) Online it says that they use the same size pulley on DC alts as the OEM uses, but the DC alt has a MUCH smaller pulley.... almost half the size?!?

    I know a lot of questions..... I'm really good with the electrical field.... I just thought I had it all figured out, and ended up with tons of questions.

    Thank you so much :)

    By the way, props to DC for at least answering the phone and providing a complete kit quickly.... if only it had instructions. :suicide-santa:

    The main question I need an answer to is this;

    **How do I get both alternators controlled by the same system (preferably the stock ECM) so that I can have all my batteries and all my alts hooked up together as one system.

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  11. Posted

    Stetsom HQ made a decision to stop advertising pricing online. Some other "dealers" ruined it for us, so they made a sweeping decision to not advertising pricing on line anymore. This is not the first time this has happened where other dealers have hurt the value of a product and in turn pissed off the manufacturer, in turn ends online sales forcing us to have to stop selling them too. Jefferson of Stetsom said we are still authorized to sell, we just cannot advertise the pricing. If you have any other questions email us. I am trying to see if we can still list them with out pricing.

    Hope ya get everything figured out and can still list them. Kinda hard to sell a product when no one knows you have it. =/

    My exact thoughts!

    And denim - sorry for posting in the wrong section!

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  13. Posted

    I am in the process of selling all of my audio equipment to start off with something new. I don't change systems like I change clothes, I kept my last setup for about 2 years. The question I currently have is this....

    Which setup would have more output potential on the meter... assuming I have the optimal sized box and optimal power for both set ups

    1.) 12 Very low strength subs... let's just say 12 inch subs 300 watts a piece

    2.) 2-4 Very high motor strength subs... let's just say 4 18 inch subs 3000 watts a piece

    I've never used a sub that required less than a thousand watts, and have little experience with low power small subs.

    Thanks!

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  15. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    Luckily I have yet to encounter any run ins with the law over audio. :woot:

    I know for a fact that I have passed many cops on the strip when I went on vacation and did not get pulled over.

    But at home, I am responsible. I turn it down (wayy down) at red lights, in my neighborhood, in any neighborhood. But if I'm just going down the highway, I will sometimes play some good ol' music at full tilt. :)

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  17. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    Well since AQ / DD is literally a father son relationship, I figured I'd buy from the eldest. :):shrug:

    Na, I just don't have any DD dealers around here and I didn't like how hard it was to get ahold of one.

    So I went over to AQ clicked a few times, waited a few days and here we are. :)

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  18. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    Got everything installed :) Been working on it ALL dang day! I was going to get an HO alt anyway, but after seeing these gauges peak at 150 amps + I am definitely sure I'll get one soon.

    Voltage doesn't really dip down too low. Of course it's not optimal, but I was amazed at the amperage loads.

    th_VID00027.jpg

    Looking at it now, the video is low quality.... the very lowest gauge is the ammeter for the subwoofer amp. The voltmeter to the upper left of it is the voltage for the sub amp. The gause on the top right is the ammeter for the front stage amp and the gauge at the very top left is the voltmeter for the front stage amp.

    If you can't see, the very bottom ammeter jumps from 100 - 125 amps and the voltage stays ~13 volts.

    The ammeter for the front stage amp jumps to ~30 - 45 amps and the voltage stays ~13 volts.

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  20. Posted

    I got a couple of ammeters and voltmeters from a website for cheap. I'm not a fan of digital gauges at all, so these are analog. Never the less, today I installed bus bars down each side of my box. I was tired of the half a$$ look of going from battery terminal to battery terminal, all was going well until I ran out of ring terminals. Therefore I'll have to make my own from copper pipe tomorrow. I will be installing the shunts for the ammeter, and finding a good place to run my voltmeters to so I can monitor my system more easily. These will be mounted in my center console somehow so I can make sure I'm not overloading my alt too much. These will also be beneficial when I go the dual alt route and have a beautiful DC power alt dedicated to my rear batts.

    I know I know, :ttiwwop:

    They will come tomorrow though.

    Here's a shot of the ammters / voltmeters.

    gauges.jpg

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  21. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    that's what i've tried to tell people before. Those who like pure ground pounding bass turn to AQ as that's what they do.

    Ironically, they do not focus on competition but just pure reliability for crazy loud bass for street systems.

    The 1000wrms rating for the HDC3s are NOT to be taken seriously if you are an experienced user.

    The copper series can easily take up to 2,400w daily and the aluminum close to 4,000w.... even though they are all rated at only 1000wrms.

    You wanna compare HDC3 to BLs... try comparing them to the BTLs in terms of thermal handling. Then you really get to see the savings.

    I would probably say though that a BTL would be more efficient than an HDC3 in the lanes but you never know til u try it.

    The HDC3s have an awesome cooling system on them, it's the main reason they can handle so much power.

    But with awesome cooling systems... don't expect superior motor strength.. or can you?

    Your 10 should way around 48lbs, pretty massive.

    I'm loving these things. They will likely find their temporary home in a ~3 cu ft box tuned ~ 35 hz. And getting their juice from the SA 3kd :)

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  23. Posted · Edited by holley2346

    $300.00 without shipping for a fully loaded BL (as seen in picture)

    $169.00 without shipping for a fully loaded AQ HDC310

    Oh and 1 month wait for the FI right now, 3 day wait for the AQ.

    Which would you choose? :ehh:

    Don't get me wrong, I love my BTL 18. But if these AQ's play as great as they look I see a change coming soon. :)

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  25. Posted

    Truck should have new springs tuesday, then comes;

    New 35 inch tires

    Check the entire brake system

    Get all the lights working correctly

    Somehow scrape up a 3000D

    Find some extra batts

    Build fiberglass door panels for the seleniums

    Watch my newly rebuilt alt go POOF because it's only ~75 amp tops

    Buy a new alt

    etc, etc, etc,

    Thou shalt upload install pictures when the time comes. Trust me, I want it done right now. :)

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