rumproast789

Well, I thought this guy was going to help me out with coming up with the specs to build a box, but he barely replies to my emails. So now I am trying to figure out the specs for a box. I would rather build it due to cost, and have looked at the box builders further down on the site, but they are a little expensive. It will be for an 18" Fi btl, as I'm sure many other people have already asked for help on this. I don't have a limitation really for room for the recommended sizes because I have an SUV. Width about 41" from side to side, and I'll have to go measure the height and depth. I listen to rap. I'd rather have it be sub up, port back, but not a side port unless its like dual side ports just because of how it looks... I only added this info for anyone who wants to help so then it's already there. Thanks to any who help out

yeah, lol I recently read the post about the shipping. I'm kind of glad it's not actually coming tommarow. I have too much to do before I can get it running I just got my alt upgraded becasue my old one died. 200 amp alt rebuilt I think. I think I might get one if I need to, but after I buy an amp. Thanks for the reply

I ordered the 18" BTL on december 30th. I've been reading that they don't get like the motors in or some stuff till next monday? Thats fine with me, cuz I got a lotta work to do on my car. I have 3 batteries, one to replace under the hood. No alternator yet, but I'm doing the big three. Sub up, port back no speaker upgrades yet and headunit soon, but probably after an alternator does that sound decent for now? I'm going to start taking out my third row, and I'm paying 10$ for box specs from a kid named aznboi on an explorerforum.

any damage done to the sub?

power as in, extra batts, upgraded alt, and probably a steady 14v?

Alright, this is for anyone who cares. My parents didn't trust me installing the alternator myself, so I decided to call up on some shops for prices. A Shop up the street was going to charge 340$ installed for a replacement 130 amp alt. I called Bill's suburban Alternator and they could get me a 200 amp alt ( i think rebuilded or something) for 240$ installed. So 100$ bucks difference for a better alt? That's where I went.

Well yup, it just died on the way home from school today. I have a 02 Explorer XLT, it is supposedly a 130 amp stock alternator. A couple weeks ago/ month or two ago it had gold coils/ copper color coils. It looked really good like similar to new. Now it looks all faded and completly junked out. On the way to school, it was cold and i was playing the sub while it was cold. I am pretty sure I blew the sub. It was a cheap little ten but I still need to replace it as it was my brothers. And now the alternator can't charge the battery. I'm not sure if they have anything to do with each other, just adding that info. I am trying to convince my parents to let me get a high out put alternator for my sub that I will be getting in. Can you guys give me some prices for replacement alternators, and some good/ correctly rated high out put alternators? I might say like, you pay for the cost it would be for just a replacement, and I'll pay the difference? I read that it was INSANELY easy and fast to replace an alternator, so I can do the install myself I'm sure. This kinda sucks, I was looking up on alternators last night, and it just died today....

wow, that kind of reminds me of what I hear about the RF 3000. How much did you pay for that? sorry for the spam lol

yeah I don't quite understand. Is it the logo that says Fi on the front that gets changed?

do any come with the subwoofer orders?

does it put out the full 3k? or is it overrated

Idk, I think I got you guys beat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pXfHLUlZf4

I was looking at DB electrical alternators, but wow. You are my best friend now I'll throw these to my parents, it's most likely going to be the 180/ 220 I don't think I need 240, I know the more amps at full out put the less at idle, right? Should that be good enough to power my system? I might end up upgrading door speakers as well, but i would say so.. and by the way, you guessed the right engine. 4.0 L sohc, good stuff man.

I was thinking in the range of 200 amp alt/ 220 amp alt depending on what my parents are going to say lol. for a H.O. Alt, I know I've seen like mechman alternators, iraggi, ohio alternator or something like that, and a few other good ones. What would any of you guys reccomend? I'll google the prices if you just give me some names/ links.

18" Fi BTL fully loaded. 2k-3k watts depending on the amp. A lot of people told me to upgrade, some people told me I'd be fine with my 130 amp alt. If the 130 amp alt would be fine let me know. I'll have probably 2 batteries in the back. I have 3 and planned on putting one under the hood, but none of them fit exactly.

Yeah, kinda forgot to introduce myself before posting but hi all. I've seen a lot of car audio people from many diff websites come here, so I figured I'd join up. I have a decent knowledge of subs and electronics and all that but I always try to learn more and end up confusing my self, hah. But yeah whats up?

lol yeah, I did a search and the site was down, and thats what I read. I will look into that for some refurbished amps.

Hah, no you did say the sundown 2000. I knew what you meant, I just didn't type my thoughts up fully. The 3000 being out of my price range, I'm hoping the 2000 isn't out of my price range. Db-r as in a type of brand? and dang, end of quarter 1, thats a little longer than I am hoping to wait. It depends when I get the money and how it all works out. I'm assuming the sundown will be underrated, how much power do you think it will be able to push actually? and how much do you think it will cost (sorry if thats posted somewhere, I think I'll do a quick search)

Love sundown amps, but the 3000 is a bit much out of my price range. I'm trying to keep this a little affordable, but not CHEAP. And I can wait. It says I get the sub this thursday, still have to install the batteries, get the wiring and install that, and build a box. Does anyone know if I got the BTL fully loaded? I'm pretty sure it is, and was it smart getting it as Universal? I figured it would be better if it was optimized. and to robclay, lmao. Thats so gay that they would overrate that too.... Okay so what about the AQ. How much of a diff would the AQ s-t-n Ratio be compared to RF, sound wise?

I can't remember, it was a mix between reading on a lot of other forums and see members that said they go here, youtube video users, and Fi's website lead to here. I saw a pic/vid of those xcons and I decided to stay lol.

well the PA is 100, the AQ is 90. Wouldn't that make a difference in the loudness?

very true, power acoustik isn't really in that range of amps. I was just adding it in because it looked clean and didn't seem too bad. anyone know the signal-to-noise ratio on the RF 2000?

omg tell me more. How much longer would I have to wait? and 400$ on ebay for the t2000? I've seen that push easily 2800 rms and after my upgrades i'm sure my car can handle the power. I got the 18" BTL with dual 2, not universal, hixmcoil, cooling, daily, and induct heat ring. I think thats fully loaded, atleast that was what I was trying to get. I get all my wire for free, any size, super flex soft braided welding wire, i have 3 batteries in the garage right now. One for under the hood, and 2 for the back. I still do need an alt though too, I'll probably get the MLA module also. and the Gibralter near down river/ ryandott (says my dad) I just know it by that its near the place that sells the trailers/ motorhomes.

I was actually really looking into those because they seem like they help a lot to other people. It's going to run me about 170$ for my explorer. Should I get that or an alt first? Doesn't matter either way. I was emailing the guys over at mla and they said as long as I get an alternator that works with the car the module should work on stock alt and h.o alt without any modifications and thanks for the reply