rumproast789
-
Content Count
255 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by rumproast789
-
-
Are these any good? the amp I'm getting, an AQ2200d requires a 200 amp fuse, and im using 2/0 welding cable so i figure il ljust get five, best bang for my buck and in case any pop i'll have an extra
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tsunami-200-Amp-ANL-Fu...bayphotohosting
And for a fuse block/holder, should I use the typical screw down the cable, or should I get the ones that you use a wire terminal on each end and just touch the fuse together?
Have any suggestions on some? I need 2 affordable ones, but 3 if they are REALLY affordable.. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I just don't think its necessary to spend 75$ on three fuses...
(since I'm using 2/0 thats why I'm wondering because most are 0 guage fuse holders)
0 -
How could I brace my port more, or do you think it needs to be braced?
Here is the bracing of the entire box, but it is also for an idea of what the port looks like...
also, do you think a 45 would be helpful in my port? I don't think it would make much of a difference....
0 -
theres no way the q's can handle that much power...
0 -
Based on the specs, the whole motor is different and the coils handle more power. I'd say a completely different woofer.I thought the Lv4XL had the Lv5 coils...
from my understanding, there is a lv4, lv4 w/ lv5 coils, and a lv4 xl which is the best...?
0 -
Does this means you will have updates for the SAZ 2000's soon?
0 -
Just cut out the inside opening so it is as big as the rest of the port. If that inside opening is smaller than the port dimensions, you are restricting the port.Yeah, I trust you, I was just making sure there wasn't any other problmes that could come along.
0 -
Here all. I'll post up the pics and provide a download for the plans, if you all don't understand after me explaining. My box has hte port on the bottom middle fyi.
Dimensions are:
44" width
27" depth
17" height
port:
top part of port (part i messed up with):
20.5" length
22" width
(thats what it is supposed to be)
side port walls:
5.75" height
25.5" width
Port opening, 22" x 5"
If you look at the pics, you'll see that the port is a little bit smaller than the front wall port opening. And that it doesn't match up with the opening inside of the box.
I have been told it won't make much of a difference, brace the port better (assuming the sides?), and to sand down both the openings of the ports.
0 -
I am almost done putting together the box, and someone pointed out that the opening looks a smaller than the other opening. I went out and measured it and realized that I made it 20.5 width from side to side of the port, and 22 length. It was supposed to be the other way around tuned at 33hz.
Will this mess it up too much? Is there anything I can do to fix it?
What would the tuning be at?
Will this lower or higher the tuning? will it mess with the sound too much? I knew I fudgeed it up... I'm so pissed
Btw, The length is of the top of the port. If you need, the sides go back 25.5, and height of 5.75
0 -
you might be looking at it where it says billing info recieved and it just gives you a scheduled delivery date, but it really doesn't deliver that day.
Maybe not though?
0 -
Yeah. Copper bolts would be best, but it will be easier and cheaper to use steel bolts.Have a bunch of steel bolts down stairs, so I think I'll just go with those. Not trying to cheap out, but if we have them why not use em
0 -
sorry delete this
0 -
looks all right, and tell your dad young people never listen to old people.what is the specs and tuning on that box? ...unless I missed it.
I don't think I posted it actually. 7 cubes at 33hz. Pretty much exactly how I wanted it to turn out...
Here are some more pics of the box almost done!
(stupid lowes cuts)
We ended up flush mounting it! The blade was getting messed up and started going up in smoke so the last part of the 18.5" whole needed to be sanded. Has to be sanded some more still.
What do you all think?
0 -
Screws? You mean a bolt and nut?Yeah, thats what I meant to say. That's what they use right?
0 -
What do I use for some wire terminals...? Anyone have a tut?
I am making my own box and i plan on using screws like most of the other people, for a tight seal. It's urgent!
0 -
Why don't you? I have to do this stuff all with my dad, because just realizing what we did today with the box, I would have never been able to do any of it
0 -
wow, didn't see that anyone else posted here! lol.
Well there are two updates. Took out the third row completly, forgot to take pics while doing it because me and my dad got in an argument lol. I'll take pics of the after math.
The box we built, then I took pics. It is almost finished all thats left is a double baffle. We were originally going to do flush mount, but mounting depth interfered with the port lol.
Here are the pics:
Port dimensions must have gotten messed up with the front part of box, whatever its my first build. I can put a filler piece in each side and then later on carpet it all up.
(the screws aren't all exact, but no one will see them after carpeting. It is very sturdy and I'd rather have that)
0 -
if flashy lights are the most important thing get the hifonics. if quality products and amazing customer service are whats important to you go sundown.If flashy lights are the most important thing then just get the sundown anyways, and buy leds lol
0 -
Where are the batteries? I only see one
0 -
they say non spillable... I'll look on their website. It's like cdtechno.com
0 -
what kinda car or truck or suv...i would run all three...
do the big three.
depending on the type of car or truck i would either ground to the frame in the rear... and do the same ..
up front... or run a ground all the way up front if its a UNI body. car.
200~300 amps.
did i miss anything
nope I don't think so.
SUV, 02 ford explorer, and have agood place where I can get some affordable fuses..? I can't pay 25$ each and get 3 of them lol
0 -
I have 2 of the same type of batts, then another one of a diff brand. The 2 have like 80 something a/h and hold like 1000 amps or something, and then the one has 100 or so a/h and like 1200 amps of storage. Stock battery from what I know up front, 200 amp alt, and I will be putting in a Audioque 2200d (unless I find a more powerful one for a better price).
I have 2/0 welding cable, a good amount. I was planning on doing the big 3 with this, then wire from the positive battery under the hood to the batteries in the back. I can't decide which setup to use, the 2 batts, single batt, or like all 3?
Would it be better to run negative and a postive to the back?
All I need for the back is to connect the positive and negative on each battery together or does one need to be grounded?
What size fuses should I use, the amp requires 200 amp fuse. 200 all around? or 150, then a 200 before the batts, and another before the amp? I dont need to fuse all batteries right?
Last one, negative on the amp to the battery or ground?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get it right.
If something didn't make sense, just say something!
IF someone has a good place to buy fuses for a good price let me know.
0 -
Right when I started reading it I figured it was going into protect... IDK why, but there was something about it that I thought that
that or maybe ur sub was frozen
jpjpLow voltage maybe?
0 -
signed. Didn't they used to only rate by rms back in teh old days? I see all these beastly old amps.... lol
0 -
1400 kids at my high school, we got wood, metal, and auto SHOP B*tches!! Bring our cars in to get worked on in auto, make a stool/table in wood, and build rails in metal class hahaha cept im not a tekkie and have academics to keepwe have a bunch of auto classes, but most of them I wasn't interested in. Small engine repair lol, I'd rather learn about different car chit but all of them i'm sure are blow off's.
i remember having it at both the middle schools
0
SSA DCON GIVEAWAY! 2 SUBS!
in News, Announcements, and Lobby
Posted
lol well who won!