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Posts posted by johnecon2001
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I think he's describing a different use for them though.
They're not ment as midrange drivers and probably won't perform as well as something you can get from madisound or parts express.
If you're thinking of using them in a three way setup though, by all means, they'll be great for the low end.
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That was just a plain fucking ridiculous waste of my time that I won't get back! Thanks!
An Optima Blue Top and Yellow Top together?
YT and BT's are the same internally. The only differences come with the posts.
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I concur with Ryan on this one.
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I sincerely doubt each one of those drivers outputs sound at the EXACT same instance as the others. Hence the reason you align the drivers to themselves. Then add time alignment L/R.
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Rather than measuring right to your ear, measure to a common spot in the middle of the vehicle.
How would that help?
If the speakers are located at the same locations in the vehicle (i.e. doors), and you measured to a point in the center of the vehicle.....the speakers would measure equidistant
You would have to measure the differences at the listening position. Then again, I've never set time alignment with measurements.....I've always set it by ear.
Because your head moves.
You can't account for how you sit or if you're leaning to the left or the right. You also can't account for passengers being in the way of the waves.
Better to just pick a common open spot in the space and aim for that. As close to your natural spot as possible of course.
You can do timing by ear, or measuring, the only real way to get it right though is with mic and computer that can measure down to the .001 ms.
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I think it should be just the opposite ... tweets should be the farthest away from you and not pointed directly at the listener ... just my suggestion bro ... I don't think time alignment will help you at all the way it is ... It should sound great though, I personally think you don't need that much tweet.
just my suggestions bro ...
Incorrect. Time alignment should be used so that all the drivers are producing sound that is coming to your ear at the same time. Regardless of how many drivers he has producing whatever frequency, placement can be corrected with alignment and phase filters.
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You can still use time alignment. One millisecond is about 1.12 feet.
Rather than measuring right to your ear, measure to a common spot in the middle of the vehicle. Or just around the driver side. Set up an object about as tall as you so you have something stationary to measure to.
Also, here's a calculator I use to help with the conversion of inches and microseconds.
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Something happened before and I couldn't post, all fixed now. After reading the quick responses I will keep my 3500D for power! I will start up what I have in my head in my build log to try and keep things organized.
Not to mention, less wiring to send out of the amp for sure.
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There are FEW amps that do 1000rms per channel on a 4 channel.
Why do you need that? A mono block work better for subwoofers.
Indeed. With the multiple wiring options of the dual voice coil woofers, one or two mono block amplifiers would be much more efficient and probably cheaper.
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Is your unit even able to control an iPod? You should flip through the user manual for clues..
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umm aren't LED D/C and not A/C?
as for your idea of having them flow with the music more stuff is involved i looked into it one day and said screw this! lol. but i may some day do something like your idea just i have no time for it now.
and i think there was a thread about this already I just can't remember the name of it off hand. Hell i think i even started a thread like this back in the day lol
You can get both iirc.
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Try disconnecting the woofer from the amp, then see if the amp turns on.
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Cool, go ahead and post it here. This is SSA.
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You should be safe to list them with a "see price in cart" deal. No advertising there. Once a customer adds the amp to the cart, it means they intend to buy it.
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After you get the recone.. you should set your gain correctly..
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the frame is always going to be the best ground possible.. since your alternator is grounded to your engine and then your engine is attached to the frame it's always going to be best.
Not really... the path of least resistance will be the best ground. If your frame ground measures over 0 ohms, and a run from the battery measures less than that... the optimal ground is the battery.
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So it's still in the BTL line, not the Q line?
The diversity between lines is getting a bit blurred..
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The 121M is barely a 250w amp. If you don't clip the gain, your DCON will be fine on it.
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She got some boobs
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Just cause it makes no sense, like I stated in my post, you know what their talking about. Not everybody knows not to use the term on this forum. Who cares.
no, really we don't know what they're talking about. That's why we REQUIRE people to better define their questions without using words that they don't fully understand the meaning of.
Now, back to the topic at hand.
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Just got email that fi excepted my payment and was wondering if it was still possible to get bigger subs instead of the 12's I ordered by mistake?
Did you email nick like he told you to??
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What content are you playing that is 5.1?
Either way, if you want to use that amp, you'll have to use a compatible Alpine head unit in order to pass input to the amp.
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Still waiting to see a response on what type and size box you built..
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Why oh why did you use Fatmat?
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Icons in a dual 15" + horn setup
in Home Audio
Posted
And really nice and Behringer probably shouldn't be used in the same sentence either.