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rps13joe

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Posts posted by rps13joe

  2. Posted

    2 days ago I replace the PCV elbow on a 4.6L 05 ford expedition, as Jcardin mentioned that too is a notorious know problem on a lot of ford trucks as well as the DPFE sensors but those 2 items from my experience doesnt cause a vehicle not to rev over 1500. the PCV issue can cause stalling issues due to the unmetered air and the DPFE is for the EGR which causes mainly rough idle due to it activating the EGR at idle when the EGR is meant for highway crusing. Both of those 2 common issue pretty much give you a rough idle but cleans up at higer RPM's so its highly unlikely since those 2 would illuminate you check engine light and a fuel pump doesnt.

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  3. Posted

    I'd have to say its the fuel pump. IDK how many ford rangers I've done that had the 4.0L engine which is the same engine in the Explorers but they are notorious for fuel pump problems, I've done IIRC at least 6-8 ranger fuel pumps and 2 explorers fuel pumps. As far as your voltage dropping its also can be related to your fuel pump again, being most cars have a set minimum idle of 750rom +/- 50 rpm from what I know as your engine starves for fuel your engine will of course lose rpm which in turn slows down your alternator and causes a loss of charging system output. But thats just my 2cents. hope you fix it.

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  5. Posted · Edited by rps13joe

    wow nice find, IM just curious does anyone know of any differences between the Pioneer Premier TS-D720C and the regular Pioneer TS-D1720C? the specs are identical its just the premier is like $20 bucks more. just thought I'd ask and see if anyone had any info.

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  6. Posted · Edited by rps13joe

    did you set ur gains with the subwoofer control at +15?

    +5 for bass, and +6 for treble

    Turn both back to zero, there is no way that can sound good. You said it's bright, back the treble down to zero, then you will hear how muddy your bass is. lol

    Buy a bigger amp or more effecient drivers if you want to get louder, but the way you are set up now has fail written all over it.

    I agree, your distorting everything at the head unit. +1, maybe 2 should be plenty for bass if used at all, I keep mine at 0. Treble is your opinion, but I keep mine at +/-1.

    Edit: On my head unit, (CDA-105), I always use the SUB W. control to increase bass while keeping the EQ the same. The bass knob also helps, but you can get great bass while leaving your EQ settings near neutral, and IMO sounding cleaner (better).

    I did more research and it says to set sub control to max +15 for alpine decks.

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  8. Posted

    M5 if you have something in mind on how I should be setting up my system im all ears man,im still fairly new to this and im still experimenting with my setup. Thats why im here to learn.

    Thanks CrazyKenKid yeah its understandable.

    slim142 its not muddy at all, its pretty bright if you ask me a little to bright. But like I said its all experimental right now, still learning the ropes

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  9. Posted

    I used a 50hz test tone recorded at 0db. my deck is set at +15 for the sub, +5 for bass, and +6 for treble. And my amp should do rated power, its a memphis belle 16-ST1300D 300watts @ 4ohms.

    But besides that theres no real concern about setting my gains up I just got confused as to why JL said to set ur gains with everything FLAT. But thanks for the help! I just needed 1 more person opinion on that. :drink40:

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  10. Posted

    I have a quick question as well regarding the SSA amplifier gain setting tutorial, I understand the process to get ur required voltage and all but what really gets me is that the "original poster" says to setup any sound processing up prior to getting the required voltage. For example +5 BASS, +3 TREB, etc. But on the external link to JL's gain setting it says to set everything FLAT or zero prior to getting ur required voltage. Which to believe? :trippy: .

    The way Im thinking is that U would go about it is JL's way, then setup the bass and treble etc after. Since the 50hz test tone is recorded at 0db puts high demand on the amp from what I've read, but most music isnt recorded at 0db so theoretically the amp wont be seeing the required voltage on music right? So thats where im lost.

    Right now I have it setup the way the SSA tutorial way all sound processing done before getting my voltage and it sounds really shallow, my 6x9's have just as much bass as my sub :ohnoes9: Anyone else have input on this? thanks.

    From what I learned in this forums.

    When setting your gain, right before you do it, you set your music the way you want it to sound.

    So for example, if you want treble +3 and bass boost +1, set that first, then set your gain.

    The reason why you dont do it after is because you could have your gain right, but then you decide to go bass boost +2, you are going to clip your signal almost instantly and cause damage.

    By setting your bass boost/treble first and then your gain, you are making sure that the bass boost is not going to cause any clipping, of course, your gain might have to be set a little lower since you are boosting the bass from the headunit already.

    One tip: you shouldnt really use bass boost. Components/coaxials are not "cool" with low frequencies <100, so many people here would suggest you leave your bass boost alone.

    thats the way I have it setup, all the bass, treb, etc set where i want it and then set my gains. I just was confused as to why JL says to set them flat prior to setting ur gains so thats why i got confused. But thanks for ur input. Anyone else? lol

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  11. Posted

    I have a quick question as well regarding the SSA amplifier gain setting tutorial, I understand the process to get ur required voltage and all but what really gets me is that the "original poster" says to setup any sound processing up prior to getting the required voltage. For example +5 BASS, +3 TREB, etc. But on the external link to JL's gain setting it says to set everything FLAT or zero prior to getting ur required voltage. Which to believe? :trippy: .

    The way Im thinking is that U would go about it is JL's way, then setup the bass and treble etc after. Since the 50hz test tone is recorded at 0db puts high demand on the amp from what I've read, but most music isnt recorded at 0db so theoretically the amp wont be seeing the required voltage on music right? So thats where im lost.

    Right now I have it setup the way the SSA tutorial way all sound processing done before getting my voltage and it sounds really shallow, my 6x9's have just as much bass as my sub :ohnoes9: Anyone else have input on this? thanks.

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  14. Posted

    Hey everyone I was just curious to see if anyone on here run's these amps or has had experience with them? I just installed mines today and it works like a champ, its used BTW but I was wondering if these pigs usually run on the hotter side? After about maybe 30 minutes of play time after hooking it up it was kinda hot, not hot where U couldnt touch it but not really warm either. So after about an hour and a half worth of playing its still working, it hasnt gone into thermal protection mode, But I was just curious if this is normal for this amp? But then again it is 2 amps in 1 chassis. LMK if anyone has input. thanks

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  15. Posted

    We may have a lab sample hit me up on my office email greg@usamps.com

    I dont mean to thread jack or anything but I've been looking for one of these amps as well. by any chance would U know if U have more than just 1 lab sample?

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  16. Posted

    Hey Jacob I have a quick question regarding the pre-orders. I pre-ordered 2 of these and I seen that the money was sucessfully withdrawn from my paypal/bank. So will you be giving us some sort of invoice or confirmation on our payments for our orders? Just thought I'd ask. I just wanna make sure I sent money to the right place lol.

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  17. Posted

    Im looking for the merlin series with the black end caps to match my MD2D. these models I should bought one when I bought my MD2DUSAmpsMD41.jpg

    I dont mind getting the newer model but I just want matching amps for a cleaner look lol.

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  18. Posted

    Does anyone know where I can get the older model Merlins at? im looking for a MD42, I tried checking ebay but they only have a MD41 up 4 sale.Im probably plain old S.O.L. but it doesnt hurt to as. So does anyone got any for sale or know where I can find me one. I would like one preferably new but used is fine as well.

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  20. Posted

    I wasnt planning to go active at first but Denim borught it to my attention. I've always read about how going active is pretty pain staking to tune but it never did cross my mind to ever try going active until now, But honestly I probably wont be going active but it would be nice to know wut needs to be done to go active for future reference. But do I have the right mind set or the jist of how an active system is set up?

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  22. Posted

    okay my headunit is an Alpine 9886. my component amp is an US Amps MD42. Just looking as to what comps i could use with this amp, preferably some speakers with a mounting depth of les than 2.5". But originally I wasnt planning to go active but thnxs to denim I just might go active lol. So is it really necessary to have an active crossover after the deck and before the amp? from wut I understand my HU has the basic HPF and LPF. or like I posted earlier am I able to get away with just using the crossovers on the amp to run active? im a :noob: to this active setups lol

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  23. Posted

    okay, Well for a start I have an Alpine deck CDA-9886

    I've tried looking on CA.com and here a little and they all seem to be a little vague as far as installation. So if I peice together a system as far as the mids and tweets I would be tuning it by means of either the crossovers on the amplifier correct? and I've been reading that theres a need for an actual active crossover inline from the deck>active crossover>amp>speakers? or is it possible just to use the crossovers on the amplifier and say set channels 1&2 as High amd have it cross at like 15khz for the tweets and then channels 3&4 in full and have the HPF set as 15khz and the LPF at 80hz for the mids? or am I just confusing myself even more? lol. But basically my main question is that is there a need for an actual active crossover?

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  24. Posted · Edited by rps13joe

    Im not to familiar with how to go active, all I really know is that each speaker gets its own channel so 1 channel for the tweet and one for the mid. But what gets me confused is that all the crossover points are adjusted from an active XO before the Amplifier? so does that deem the HPF and LPF filters on the deck and amplifier usless/not needed? and would I just not even touch the amp's LPF and HPF settings period besides the GAIN ? If you have a link on a write up on how an active setup is installed it would help clear things up for me.

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