Jump to content

LazyFcuk

Members
  • Content Count

    127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by LazyFcuk


  1. Some background:

    I have always been a Sundown audio and FI audio fan and those are the products I use. I purchased a 12" BL fully loaded and 1500D sundown to place in my 240sx, I have now upgraded to a 04 Acura TL. I cannot afford a new headunit as the products available are close to one thousand dollars. So, the box is built, the sub is ready, the wiring kit is sitting waiting to be installed.

    Now where im stuck,

    So, since i have the stock headunit I will need a line output converter. I am unsure how to install this and how it works. Also I am needing to disable the stock subwoofer. I have been reading about how the stock headunit lowers bass at higher volumes to protect the speakers etc, will this affect my subwoofer? Installing items is no problem I just want to make sure im doing everything right and that i am getting the best performance from the system.

    All advice is appreciated, if anyone has done an install in the same car or a similar please due tell.

    Cheers!


  2. Thanks guys just gotta grab my buddies dmm from him and i should be good to go. Hopefully my gain changes the voltage, as it did not alter the output of the subwoofer.

    *EDIT* could it have to do with settings in my headunit?


  3. You sound like your more worried about the gain than the sub. If it's not a free air sub I wouldn't be playing it outside the box.You can hook it up to make sure it works but not play it loud hooked up to an amp. I'm pretty sure that once you put it in a box that sound will go away.So try that and then respond back.K

    Yeah that was basically my point. It will be in the box by the end of this weekend because I am busy with school. Any ideas about the gain?

    Use a dmm to set it.

    What is the volatage im looking for though, from my OP I last used a 60hz CD and set the gain to around 30 something volts. Where can i calculate this voltage.


  4. You sound like your more worried about the gain than the sub. If it's not a free air sub I wouldn't be playing it outside the box.You can hook it up to make sure it works but not play it loud hooked up to an amp. I'm pretty sure that once you put it in a box that sound will go away.So try that and then respond back.K

    Yeah that was basically my point. It will be in the box by the end of this weekend because I am busy with school. Any ideas about the gain?


  5. The sub is far more likely to be damaged free air than in the box.

    I understand, but my main concern is the gain. As far as mechanical noise, is it very noticeable Duran? I believe it is just that because it sounds like movement noise in the coils.


  6. Put it in an enclosure and see if it goes away, there are mechanical noises when you play free air.

    Thats what I am hoping the sound just sounded very strange to me, the reason i was playing it out of the box because i am thinking the is a problem with the gain. I remember in my old set-up when i turned the gain know to min the sub wouldn't move. Now at 60% volume the gain does nothing to alter the sounds of the woofer.

    Still don't understand why you would play it out of the box?

    Because I am just doing tests with the gain, the sound might just be mechanical, I am not sure. My worry is in the gain. Changing the gain at any volume does not affect the woofer at all, I find that strange compared to my last 18" BL. I am a student and cannot afford to purchase a new sub, because with shipping and brokerage fees this sub cost me over $550. I am trying to make sure I don't place it in the box and the sounds disappears only hiding a potential problem, and ending up with a blown subwoofer.


  7. Put it in an enclosure and see if it goes away, there are mechanical noises when you play free air.

    Thats what I am hoping the sound just sounded very strange to me, the reason i was playing it out of the box because i am thinking the is a problem with the gain. I remember in my old set-up when i turned the gain know to min the sub wouldn't move. Now at 60% volume the gain does nothing to alter the sounds of the woofer.


  8. Update: Playing the sub out of the box sounds like complete shit. It sounds like its rattling underneath the cone somewhere in the magnets. When i mess around with the gain it does nothing. The sound is there at low levels of volume and gets louder when the volume is turned up. With the volume at 50% it is very noticeable, and changing the gain does change the output or the noise, not 1%. Ive tried disconnecting the gain knob extension and nothing happens. Please help, I just want to get this thing working properly.


  9. Ok so My FI BL 12" just arrived, i had a 18" previous in my Ford explorer. Now since I have a 240sx i need something smaller. I have my amp (saz-1500D) all set-up and ready to go. I forgot i need to reset my gains because when I tested the sub I could hear it clipping, and for some reason my gain (min/max) control knob mounted at the front of my car did not change the output of the sub. I lost the original cord but i read a phone cord could work so i tried and the blue led works at least. I digress to my problem which is that i forgot how to set my gain. I remember sticking in a 60hz cd at 3/4 full volume and reading the voltage from the amp but i forget the calculation. I also have a stock alt ( i believe 85amps), and a new battery. I really do not want to harm any of my precious equipment so all advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, in advance. Greg


  10. That turns out to be about 4.6 cubes gross, you need to determine how big of a box you can fit through your trunk opening, or can you fold your back seats and fit it there?

    The trunk opening for my car is very large so fitting a box wont be a problem. Also with the cut sheets im not sure if i can fit the 17" length, ill have to do a second measure.


  11. So after being bassless for months now my FI BL 12 is on its way. I drive a 240sx now so i do not have much trunk room, I need help with a box design that would be optimal for the sub. Thanks for the help in advance.

    Trunk Dimensions: Height Sloping from 20" - 17" at the back. Length: 15". Width: 36". Simplicity is key since i do not have access to many tools.


  12. I see that Skar audio has a really good deal on their new 10" subs that are 600 rms a piece that would work good with your amp (same amp I have). If I were you I would be looking hard at them I mean for $120 a piece shipped in the states......you can't jsut ship them close to the border and then go across the border to pick them up? I do it all the time but I am approx 30 mins from the border...... anyway best of luck!

    That seems like a good idea, th borders about an hour away from me, but how would i do that. Also I cant seem to find the 10" on their site.


  13. You'll have to check all your grounds on your car, but I would start with the engine ground.

    Here's a story for ya.

    I had a buddy buy a wrecked car and rebuild it. The engine ground never got hooked back up. Upon starting the car and testing everything, we noticed smoke coming from under the middle of the car. Took a look and the parking brake cables were fried. That was the only source for ground through the car and you can just imagine that small point handling all the grounding when the 12V- system is designed to use the entire vehicle structure as a ground.

    Run a new ground to the engine block with a heavy guage wire and test. Then start going through everything else. This way, you are guaranteed a large ground capable of handling everything. After you get that done, I'd concentrate on making sure the computer and all other modules have a proper ground as well.

    That sounds exactly right but I cannot seem to find the engine block ground in my 00 explorer.


  14. You've got a serious ground issue somewhere. Check the engine ground first. Put another ground in there and see if it cures it. If it does, start checking all the grounds you can.

    I have no clue what to look for other than the engine ground, another problem that this has caused is my car does not automatically lock when I begin to drive.


  15. Wow. Start checking every wire you can, stereo and non-stereo, to see if there is a ground out somewhere.

    Well another piece of information is that it does not do it every time the car is on. The first was when the car was on idle and i was listening to music with the AC on and the second time i was listening to music and I had to turn my head lights on.


  16. Ok starting yesterday my car began to smoke and smell like burning so I popped the hood to find nothing. I noticed that it was coming from the wheel well and ended out figuring out it was a part of some wiring that was melting very badly. It has now made it so my parking break remains on and driving again tonight it began to smell and my ABS light on my car began to flash. Any advice on what it is or what I should do.


  17. Car: 2000 Ford Explorer 4Door

    Current system:

    Apline CDE-102 HU

    Fi 18in BL 09

    1500D Sundown

    all 1/0 gauge knu wire.

    8cu ft box. sub facing roof/port facing hatch. Tuned to 32hz

    I must say that I am very pleased with FI and their product, I am just wanting my system to be maximizing its output. My first hing which I plan to improve is running big 3, I am NOT having dimming in my car and is it really needed if it does not effect the output of the sub. I was thinking of making a better designed box that has both the sub and port facing the rear. I was also thinking about putting dynamat in the trunk door of the car to help with rattle. Any more suggestions would be great or anything to due with what i plan to do is welcome.

×