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BeAlLsTaR13

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Posts posted by BeAlLsTaR13

  1. Posted

    ken, its obvious kevin knows he fucked up and is just buying time

    hit him with that paypal claim, a situation like this, with the proof you have you have imo a 100% chance of getting your money back

    this guy is even pissing me off

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  2. Posted

    Knock did they pick it up or not?

    No Kevin. Was at work. Left a note for the UPS person but idk, they didn't get it. I don't work until late tomorrow so I should be around for them to pick it up.

    If you paid by paypal, I'd check with them and see if you can open a paypal dispute now that way it is in place pending the outcome of the shipping claim.

    I probably should

    i'd file a claim asap, he most likely stalled before and waited cause you only have 45 days, only a few days left

    so i'd file now and have it worked out, and if the shipping claim goes through and is accepted the pp dispute can simply be closed, but then your screwed if you dont file a paypal claim and UPS claim takes days to go through and you miss out and take the chance for UPS to deny the claim, cause the packaging was TERRIBLE, i wouldnt be surprised if it was denied, was in a box, inside of another box.. no padding, peanuts, bubble wrap, ect. and the amp still has about 1" of open space on each side of it, i saw it :ughdunno:

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  3. Posted · Edited by Brandon13

    weird, you contacted UPS a week ago about the claim and they havnt givin you any info? ive dealt with claim services several times with UPS and they usualy contact within 48 hours

    weird, also threatening to close the matter if OP keeps posting? shows how much of a business man you really are

    i wouldnt be surprised if you were removed off of this forum as well with your shitty CS, really gonna threaten to end the matter by putting it out in the public? just the true colors of your CS

    i say OP opens up a paypal claim, all the proof is there for them to side with the OP, and the seller still loses the amp, of course that is worst case scenerio, but looks like its heading that way at this rate :fing34:

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  4. Posted

    FYI in the future trying my cell or pms might result in faster action then publicly announcing I've slammed you even when I'm trying to help after the fact. Just a thought

    he did, if you read i belive the first post he said he hadn't heard from you in 2 days after he had text messaged you, he said you stopped responding.

    below:

    I'm stuck with a dead amp and haven't heard anything from him since I last texted him 2 nights ago.

    Brandon, please let me handle this with Knock, I am clearly responding to every post in this topic and he has never tried texting/emailing/calling since his first conversation with me the other day on my cell.

    so i take it you no longer want to see a video of the amp going into protect instantly? i have the vid, not "knock"

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  5. Posted

    i think im just gonna either get a new set of comps in 5 1/4" or 6" size, or find one thats actually 6.5" cause these measure at almost 6.8 which imo should be considred 6 3/4

    now, i was able to get one of these mids to fit:

    JBL - P660C - 6-1/2" 2-Way Component Speaker System

    can be had on ebay for like 130-140 shipped, however they are 2 ohm and i dont want my sax100.4 to tear them apart

    or does anyone else have any other suggestions? that size mid right there with its outer diameter and mounting depth are the absolute max i can fit, not a hair bigger

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  6. Posted · Edited by Brandon13

    FYI in the future trying my cell or pms might result in faster action then publicly announcing I've slammed you even when I'm trying to help after the fact. Just a thought

    he did, if you read i belive the first post he said he hadn't heard from you in 2 days after he had text messaged you, he said you stopped responding.

    below:

    I'm stuck with a dead amp and haven't heard anything from him since I last texted him 2 nights ago.

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  7. Posted

    Is there some kind of proof about the protect mode issue? Video or anything like that? I'm just curious myself... That is all... :peepwall:

    we can get one tomorrow at the show were going to, were driving up north to a show and he is going to be running my saz3500d, we can hook up the RD and update this tomorrow unless he has any pics on his phone or something as of now else it'll have to wait till tomorrow for pics

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  8. Posted

    No then I would contact UPS and refund the buyer and collect insurance because they would have had to damage it because it worked leaving here. I posted several times that the amp worked before and after he bought it and was unrelated to the eBay sale and that buyer was also informed the amps were infact functional. I don't know what else you expect from me.

    quality customer service

    you shipped a 400$+ amp, and didnt even put insurance on it, are you kidding me?

    each and every company i have ever heard of and dealt with that ships audio product is smart enough to insure packages no matter the quality/price

    If you reread my post it says COLLECT insurance on a damaged packed which cleary means it was insured, just like all the products I ship...

    then the smart thing would be to open a shipping claim to see if it is possible that neither buyer or seller need to take a hit.

    seller says amp was working when sent out, buyer says amp protects when its fed 14v, ups/fedex says "ohh nozz we dun fooked up on this one" you get an insurance check for the insured amount and either forward that payment to buyer, or refund the original payment and he could possibly even send the amplifier back to you after his refund and you get your end of the deal

    then you can resell the blown amplifier again and make out twice

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  9. Posted

    No then I would contact UPS and refund the buyer and collect insurance because they would have had to damage it because it worked leaving here. I posted several times that the amp worked before and after he bought it and was unrelated to the eBay sale and that buyer was also informed the amps were infact functional. I don't know what else you expect from me.

    quality customer service

    you shipped a 400$+ amp, and didnt even put insurance on it, are you kidding me?

    each and every company i have ever heard of and dealt with that ships audio product is smart enough to insure packages no matter the quality/price

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  10. Posted · Edited by Brandon13

    I simply don't burn people with used products. Never have never will. I am sorry about whatever happened but it was used and you did PM me saying "it works well"...branding, while I understand he is your friend put yourself in my shoes.

    You sell a used amp

    Customer emails you saying it works well

    Then they move to another vehicle and its blown.

    The only thing I can offer is direction to an amp repair center. You have my personal cell number its not at all like I'm ignoring you knock.

    cant you read? it was blown before it was placed in another vehicle... in order to test to make sure it isnt the install causing it to protect, dont you have to place it into another vehicle?

    what if we said the amp didnt work, we brought it directly to the shop and it didnt work there either.. are you then going to say that the shop hooking it up caused it to blow as well?

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  11. Posted

    that is all :shrug:

    amplifier in question was brought out to already have been "blown" however said buyer, k3n12ock was unaware of this situation until AFTER the amplifier was purchased and in his posession, and now k3n12ock's rd amp which is what the thread is about appears to be not working condition

    dunno about you guys... adds up to me

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  12. Posted · Edited by Brandon13

    Meanwhile - I will have a more trusted amp expert post here so you don't feel as if I scammed you.

    you calling in an "amp expert" wont help any, the item came from you and not him, and unless you had him "fix" this amp or something, he would have no possible way iin knowing the true status of the amplifier before it was sent out, so having someone come in and say "amp works" is irrelevant to this situation, its the same exact thing as how i said "amp doesnt work" cause i threw it in my car, and it didnt work.. which me saying anything doesnt get anywhere either... theres no proof i looked at the amp, but i simply could prove i had tested the amp, you cant prove your "amp expert" tested the amp, or knows it works unless he/she has repaired it or personally dealt with it upon it being sent out, even then

    and wheres the proof you tested it before it was sent out? no test date on the inner packaging (like jacob does with his amps) no clamp sheet or anything.. could be like me sending an amp to someone and saying it is tested

    edit:

    also if the amp worked on 12v in your car and it worked in kevin's car, then like magic it died at 14volts that doesn't make to much sense.

    also when you tossed it in your buddies car was it already dead? as in yep it is dead in my car , then you put it in your buddies car just to confirm it is dead in his car also?

    yes, the amplifier was protecting before we placed it into my vehicle, we were getting everything in this past thursday, when it came to the amp and testing it didnt work.. we re ran some wires and still nothing, friday i picked the amplifier up and placed it into my vehicle, it infact still protected, we had to try it in another vehicle to make sure 100% it wasnt the install.

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  13. Posted

    So I bought this RD3250v1. Seemed to work great with my car off AKA 12v. Only got about 10 mins total (2 different time) of testing on it with the car off. When I went to turn my car on to drive and test, shit went into protect. I don't know if it was close to fucked up or anything but I'm stuck with a dead amp and haven't heard anything from him since I last texted him 2 nights ago. And I KNOW it's not the install.. I knew I should have never bought it. Wish I would have known about how you screwed dude over on Ebay too before I bought it. I guess it was a sign you wouldn't accept my first payment and had me resend it. Then again, I should have not bought anything because it said SUBTILLIS AUDIO. FML. I'd advise everyone else to NOT buy that 2nd RD he has. Or take the chance and have it blow up like mines did and have it blamed on your system/install. That is all.

    Bought a sae-1200d v.1 off of Kevin. Arrived today, and I'm in love. Packing was great, price was great, condition is great.

    Kevin held the amp about a week and a half for me. I really appreciate that, especially seeing as how busy he is starting up 1800woofers and doing skar audio.

    As soon as I was ready, he called and personally took my information, and sent me a receipt through email. Nice touch. He also sent the amp out that day. Showed up super fast.

    Will definitely do business with Kevin again.

    one good feedback, one bad

    means your CS is only 50/50

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  14. Posted

    the OP stated he had 10min or less of play time on the amp @ 12v and once we fed it 14v it protected

    and it was protecting BEFORE it was placed with my power, ground, and rem wire hooked up to it, we simply tested it to see if it was his install, which infact was not due to the install

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  15. Posted

    i can vouch for ken on this one, i even threw it in my own install (s3400 upfront, d2700 in back on dc power 275amp alt - electrical is not an issue) never had an amp issue in the past and it auto protected once i got power, stayed on for about 3-5 secs before it protects once it turns on and btw i had no woofers/speakers being ran to it it was only to test the install to see if it protects and infact it did

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  16. Posted

    so i went out an cut out another 3/4" ring (no flush) and the door panel doesnt go on, stick out about 1/2" so it looks like im gonna try to go and do what lithium said above unless theres any other ideas, which im open to all

    or even if someone has a link to mids just as good but shallower

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  17. Posted

    Cut or grind the door inside your rings.

    thats not the issue yet, the motor is hitting my window track inside of the door allowing it to not go in any further

    Sorry buddy, my bad.

    lol its fine, by the looks of it I AM A have to do it a little bit anyways.. hopefully my dremel can get through it :ehh: else i'll have to barrow somethin

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  19. Posted

    edit: assuming you dont have enough room between skin and panel for another mdf ring for more mounting depth!!!

    im trying to find a picture of how you can do it. no luck so far....

    so ill try to do an outline of the steps but you will have to imagine how it its going to look...

    1 remove door panel.

    2 attach a mounting brace across the stock speaker hole on the metal door skin. this will hold on to a fiberglass pod.

    3 put the door panel back on

    4 looking at the hole in the door panel where the speaker would be you can no see a metal brace spanning the internal door skin.

    5 tape off from the door panel to the door skin and flat across the metal brace (will look like a bowl shape. (what will happen here is that this create a "tunnel" or cylinder shape chamber that the speaker will be mounted to. also keeps the the rear sound wave from the speaker firing into the cavity in the door.)

    6 mount the speaker ring to this mold.. method would probably involve fiberglassing it..

    7 what you should have now is essentially a fiberglass pod.

    8 remember that brace attached to the door skin? use bolts to attach the pod to the brace.

    9 decide what alignment you will be using the speaker in? aka infinite baffle, firing into the door, or sealed (or aperiodic). to vent the pod into the door just cut/drill some holes on either side of the brace to vent the pod into the door.

    10 mount speaker to the ring

    hopefully you can kind of visualize this... in short your creating a speaker pod just outside the door panel that is attached to the door skin via a brace, which is then vented into the door correctly.

    edited for condition of dimensions!!!!

    ok i think i get it now when you say "door skin" im assuming the metal on the door panel its self? so basically what im doing is going through my stock speaker grill correct? so basically i am making one of those "orb" type pods in my door panel which doing this will keep my midbass compared to if i just threw the mid inside of the stock speaker grill opening correct?

    this is my door panel (well this belongs to a 2 door but same concept)

    41273568.jpg

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  21. Posted

    well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around

    well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute)

    but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth

    i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so they wouldnt swell if they got moisture on them:

    7354ca69.jpg

    582972ae.jpg

    2c4fa9d0.jpg

    4125eadd.jpg

    now actually in the doors:

    c5aed1d1.jpg

    59051bbd.jpg

    NOW i came into this KNOWING i would have to cutout some of the door panel to get the mid to get inside the door, that was expected cause it is stock 4x6 i had... now when i went to test fit" the woofer here is what i got:

    9a54ca1a.jpg

    door panel, mounting ring, woofer.. with about a 1" gap from the woofer to the mounting ring, no.. the woofer isnt having an issue passing through the 4x6 hole (yet) the motor is hitting the window track inside the door panel FTMFL, as you may be able to see how close in the pic below:

    c5aed1d1.jpg

    i wouldnt exactly say POOR planning, i never thought about it cause ive fit 6" and 6.5" mids in there before, the reason i went with these mounting rings was because the 4x6 adapters that are available from my car go from 1/2" to 1" on an angle and the woofer would hit against the door panel cause of the angle the original adapter was on

    so now i have to figure out a wal to get these to fit, gotten too far now to send them back for a refund and convert back down to 6" or even 5 1/4" :(

    any suggestions? i considered doing something like this:

    183697_10150091828316451_510681450_6350388_2309211_n.jpg

    but IMO that would look tacky, and wouldnt i lose midbass? also, that door panel above is the same exact door panel i am working with, it is from the same kind of car (2002 Pontiac grand AM SE 4 door)

    i did consider glassing door panels, but i really dont have the time, nor the experience to work with something like that

    in the pic above showing the door panel with the speakers, where the SINGLE speaker is is where my factory grille is, its molded into the door panel so has to be cut out.

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