loondizie52
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Posts posted by loondizie52
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pre drill and use some industrial screws from a local industrial hardware store...they are very strong compared to reg drywall screws. t nuts are only truly necessary on monster subs in a vertical enclosure or something similar. imo
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im gonna make some kick pods using my old kickpanels in my truck, but i saw a guy on here once making them with 1/4 inch mdf for the mounting plate, and then the rest was foam filler which he resined and glassed directly on top of that then wrapped them in vinyl. is this a good idea, or stick to the regular all glassed way?
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for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....
go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength
How on EARTH does that work?
idk how familiar you are with wood working, but dado jointing interlocks the joints and it is then glued and walled on 3 sides. and when making a box it is compounded and interlocked across all sides and joints. therefore much stronger because there is less of a surface to slide or bend or break. just glue and mechanical adhesion alone is enough for make it twice as strong as a regualarly built box with L type joints. even just rabbt jointing is much much stronger than a regular box...
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That is a good question. I have not seen much talk or interest in them over the last few years. Maybe someone on here is familiar with them.
ya same here. the mean machine 3000's and 4000's were fairly popular on the comp circuit but they cost a shit ton and even used they were alot. but they cut those out and only have the mean machine 1000's and 1500's now. and switched up the whole look but idk about internals or performance. im pretty sure im gonna get one for my type r's for the mean time
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Adam Sandler voice: "Information that would have been useful YESTERDAY!!!!!"
2 10's all the way...ive been in a altima with 2 tens that hurt the core. and i had 18s. roll 2 10s with the correct setup and power and it will slam. what kinda car?
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for stuff like this I'd use 2ich thich and a lot of bracing ....
go 1 inch with 2 inch baffle. all thread that shit with other cross bracing too. 45 all corners and glass, not just resin that bitch up. should be easily strong enough...oh, and dado joint the whole box. like fisher does. really adds lots of structural strength
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are the new mean machines as good as the ones from like 05-08
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the kenwood is extremely overrated...i have it. it overheats fast and shuts off (common problem with these amps) and sq is not too great, and worst part is it was bench tested at only 633 rms...weak sauce my friend
btw where did you read up on how to build the t-line??
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the truck is a 2001. I am looking for a sollution for a ported box. I don't know if the truck has the storage compartment under the seat or not. I may just have to sit them on the back seats and find a way to keep it from moving when i hit the breaks.
i have an 01 also and i messed with that forever, and even put 15's on the seat haha. but ultimately best solution was to remove the back seat and make a false floor. has worked great for me. and ive had 2 12's, 2 15's and 2 18's back there before. i suggest that but you can still probly flip the seat up and make a small false floor and then make your box taller vertically.
like this, when i had 4 tens sealed...
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i know what i am goin for is the biggest issue but i just want opinions cuz i know what i want, i just want to know what you would pick if the choice was yours
Is this a daily set up? SPL?
It would help to elaborate a little more on what your goals are.
its a purely daily setup...i had 2 18 inch BLs tuned to 33hz and i just want something close to that in output but with a smaller set, so i want to either go 1 really good 18 or 2 good 15's. i want it to be loud but not sound like crap or like a fart box setup. and i want total power to be around 3k watts. its in a dodge ram ex cab
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Does anyone have a dodge quadcab or have knowledge with the vehicle to tell me what i could fit behind the front seats. I don't have a problem lifting up the back seats because i don't plan on using it anyway. I wanna put 2 12's where the second row seating is typically. I know the second row seats lift up.
what year?
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Based on all the background information that you have given us all I can add is that this is a super useless poll and not only will it not help you, but it surely won't help anybody else.
x2
awesome
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where can you get one? ive been looking all over
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i know what i am goin for is the biggest issue but i just want opinions cuz i know what i want, i just want to know what you would pick if the choice was yours
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sweet thanks for the help man, im pretty dead set on these now....so bottom line, for what i want, 2 15's or 1 18?
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the AQs have a 3" Xmech value, that's why you can tune high and still retain the low end.
For the utmost all around loud design for the 18, build 6 cubes NET tuned to 40hz.
I'll be honest, 40hz wont go earth shaking low, it'll audibly roll off around 32-33hz.
38hz tuning is great for loud street beating. 35hz is the lowest recommended for low end street beating. Any lower and you start sacrificing 50hz+ range.
awesome, and would the box size for 2 15's be 3-5? cuz i want it to be overall louder and more punch than a single BTL 18. and whats the safe daily power range for them
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i would go AQs because they are cheaper than most subs in it's class, immediate recone requests and i know their potential.
I've messed with AQs for few yrs now, i don't own their subs right now because i am on a different Team now but if i had no weight limit issue, i would still be using them.
ok and just from reading around ive kinda noticed that you seem to be the guro on AQ which is why i ask you. what do they like as far as box goes for an 18, and hz and power for a daily setup?
also, do you believe they are louder than a mayhem or btl, or you just prefer them because of your experience with them?
cuz i look at the price of the AQ and im so tempted to get it, but i loved my old 18inch BL's and i had it tuned at 33 so the high tuning from AQ sort of scares me off, know what i mean
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anything 1200w or less and they will sound great. anything abover 1200w and under ~2400w, they will be brute force loud and can use the copper coil version.
Anything over that and under 4,000w, get aluminum coil.
These subs are geared to be tuned high and still retain the low end due to their high excursion capabilities.
Tuning to 35hz is the lowest AQ recommends. 38-40hz is normally recommended.
shizzon,
would you go with a hdc3 or a AA Mayhem?
its for a daily driver in a ex cab truck
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how do the mayhems compare to a BTL. and does anyone have pricing for a 18 inch mayhem
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It is a custom built Death Row twenty-one that was built by IA. 8 cubes works really well with this sub. You could go a little smaller or larger but I have been the happiest with 8 cubes tuned around 33 hertz with the 21''s
awesome, well i love to build my own boxes, so
how much just for the sub?
how much for the sub and amp?
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$850 plus shipping on enclosure. Shipping on the sub and amp are free. The sub ia a Incriminator Audio twenty-one inch Death Row and the amp is a Sound Stream PCX1500. These are brand new and comes with full warrenty. You will also recieve a free enclosure built to your preffered deminsions.
do they make a dr 21? i thought it was only dp and wardens? what are box recs for that sub? im highly interested
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is the power plant series any good or are they overrated?
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ive bought from them 3 times all with great fast results. i had an amp blow and i called them and told them it did, and even though it was out of warranty they still sent me a brand new one. they seemed very good to me. they are in Los Angeles, Ca which is close to me so that may be why it was so quick, idk. but ill bump for them
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Those?
...Those Are The Kind You'd Probably Want To Stay Away From Unless You Like A Piercing High That Sounds Awful, Those Are The Phenolic Type I Addressed Earlier, And Most Of Them Sound That Way.
Just Adding, And Take This The Way You Want, I Would Never Buy An Audiopipe Product.
ya those are the exact ones i was wondering about...oh, whats the general consensus on the ap 3000d? does it do rated power?
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screws to hold sub down
in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Posted
i had no problems with my FI BL 18's mounted vertically in my wall and they were just regualr drywall screws too