hondakilla98

Either way. You won't be able to hear the difference between 1500 and 2000 watts.

I have 2 sa10's in 2.5 cu ft net @32hz running @1ohm off an saz-1500d. They take what it can dish out, but I couldn't see them taking any more. So 2 cu ft for 2000 sounds about right. Just make sure you have enough port area. I'm running a 40 sq in kerfed slot port.

How big of a box are you willing to use? You should figure that out first, then decide which driver to get. I would go with a single 10" ported with an aeroport to save space. A DCON would be a good budget choice. It's always better to go bigger than you think you'll need. You can always turn it down.

If you want quiet it's pretty simple and expensive. You need to cover as much of the inside of your truck with ccf and mlv(up to the window line). Read through the ask don of SDS thread pinned to the top of this forum.

Damn that's a good looking sub!

You could always recone to a 15 and then sell the 18" basket. Or post up in the classifieds and see if someone wants to trade for a 15".

Nice install. It's good to see another SSA member in the Portland area. I'm in Beaverton. I'm looking forward to seeing the tails installed.

Nice job on the fiberglass. I have some large format tweets to put in my pillars as well. Looks like it's time to get to work.

My girl went through her MSF course last year and I found her a ninja 500 in kinda rough shape, but mechanically sound for $1000. It's a good starter bike, and it will take you longer to outgrow than a ninja 250. Besides, as long as a bike runs and is rideable it's worth $1000. So you don't lose any money with a starter bike. She spent more on gear than her bike, and that's a good thing.

At 5'9" and 230lbs you don't NEED more than a 600. Besides, the 954 you mentioned is smaller than some 600's. I'm 6'3" 300lbs. I started on a 99 kawi zx-6r. It fit me ok, and was manageable. Looking back I think I woulve learned faster on a lighter, less powerful bike. I suggest a Suzuki sv650 for a starter or maybe a kawi ninja 500. I'd buy the cheapest bike you can find that's safe, preferably with a salvaged title. Then buy good gear and take an MSF course. Remember an ugly salvage title bike won't lose much value if you crash it, maybe none at all. It'll also get you riding and learning faster.

Very nice, as always with a Sefugi build.

How important is box size to you? I'd base my decision on that. They are both great subs. But the NS performs in smaller boxes. The sundown Zv2 would be a good option as well.

My max right now is 315, but i weigh 315. So not that impressive.

Hopefully you have comp coverage on your insurance. Your doors look great and I like your choice of project car.

I emailed them asking about the presale today. We'll see what I get back. If it's still going I'm getting a 2000.

Looking good. I like how your still going to have access to the door pocket. And it looks more integrated now. Your giving me hope that when I try my hand at fiberglass it might turn out ok.

I know how you feel with the water in your car. I went through that with my neon a long time ago. It was coming in around the tail lights. With a good cleaning and some silicone it finally stopped. It sucks not having tunes. That's why I picked up an ihome rechargeable iPod dock/ fm radio. I can put it on the dash of my 67 f250 when I go to the dump. And when I tear apart my cadi for the I stall I'll still have some music.

Those boxes seem a little big. I usually see NS15's in around 3 cu ft.

I dunno?? The razor worked wonders. Didn't need to go dig through the house to find a sharpie Didn't need shaving cream either, not bad for a dry shave. My suggestion would've been rubbing alcohol or acetone. But the razor is a great idea. I'll have to try that on my box. Unfortunately I had someone build it and his paint skills leave a lot to be desired. Great build so far, keep up the good work.

Why would he do that? He is taking trade ins for skar woofers. If he shuts down his ebay store it takes away one more outlet to sell the products he takes in. Besides if all he is doing is selling skar and reselling what he takes in, he should be able to keep up on customer service. And hopefully he's learned his lesson about no reserve listings. Which is what started this whole mess in the first place.

I was looking at DCON box plans on the SSA technical section. They list the optimal single DCON 12 ported at 2.25 cu ft with 32.5 sq in of port. Then the dual DCON optimal is listed at 3.28 cu ft with 45 sq in of port. I was looking at running three DCON 12's sealed in the trunk of my Eldorado with the optimal 1.25 net per sub to save space. Well after looking at the optimal ported box for 2 12's I'm wondering what the optimal for 3 12's ported would be. My max box width is 38", max height 15" and depth up to 24". I'm thinking I'll run the 12's side by side with a slot port on the top of the box 2" tall and 36.5" wide firing towards the back of the car. With a net box size of around 4 cu ft net with 73 sq in of port tuned around 32 hz. How does this sound? I'll be running these off my saz-1500d.

I just bought a 95 Cadillac Eldorado. It has the factory amplified system in it, so I have to run all new wires, amp, speakers, etc. I'm still trying to decide what i'm going to run in it. So far I'm thinking an Alpine IXA-W404 for the head unit, PXA-H100 eq, a set of focal 165a1 components running active, a dsc480 or dsc4125 to run the front stage, my saz-1500d to run the sub stage and probably 1 15" ported through the back deck or one sealed 18". For electrical, it has a new Interstate 800 cca main battery, I'll put my kinetic HC1400 in the trunk, run 1/0 main power and do the big three in 1/0. Here are some pics, and feel free to comment on my planned system. Also I'm wondering how much of an output difference I'll see going from having my sub in an suv to being in a closed up trunk.

Ordered my Alpine HCE-C107D backup camera and KTX-C10LP license plate mount today. That should be the last of my wires to run in the car. I also ordered a water pump for my other car a 98 grand cherokee. So untill I fix that, hopefully this weekend. I won't be working on the Cadillac.

My current box has 2 3in aeros, and I dont really like it as much as an L or straight port. I think I can change the dimensions though, because Ive always had the subs pushed up against the back seat firing in to the cabin. Read an article saying as close to the back end of the trunk firing toward the trunk is best. Im kind of thinking of making a sealed box, since it would be the first one I made myself, and would be easier to move around and test the best locations. Then when I know the best way to face it for my car, design a ported box for it. Would a sealed box need 45s in the corners, or any other bracing? You don't like the look or the sound? I'd build a generic box 2 cu ft and run the aero's external. Then you can face the sub and ports different directions. Make a plate with the 2 ports mounted on it. cut a hole in the box. screw the plate to the box and test it. Then cut another hole, mount it there and put a piece of scrap mdf over the last hole. then you can test sub and port firing untill you figure out whats best. Then build a permanent box spec'd however sounded best. The best part is, you already have the aero's. So all it costs is time, glue and mdf. Then if you want to try sealed, just make some small mdf boxes or whatever, put them in the box to lower the volume to whatever you want. And you could even change the volume to see what sounds the best sealed in your car. If you go with a sealed box you won't "need" 45's, but they wouldn't hurt either.

Nice clean install as always. I like your idea to use studs to go through.