hondakilla98

So what about 2-3" aeroports firing to the side. They'd be 20" long and wouldn't take up hardly any box volume. And if you want to try sealed later, the ports are easy to block off and you can make some small mdf boxes to take up space inside the box to drop the volume down. Here's a link to some 3" aero kits. https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=404_85&products_id=711

I ordered my CCF, EBR, vinyl cement, And Velcro from Don @ sound deadener showdown this morning. And 100 sq ft of MLV from soundproofing.org.

Well there you go. Now you just need to find one to buy while your there.

Am I the only one playing "Full Metal Jacket" quotes in my head? Evryting u want!! Number 1 F%@ky! Luv u long time!

Soon, I have about 60 sq ft of audiowrap to use. I'm waiting to hear back from Don at SDS for his opinion on the MLV and CCF I've found, before i order it. But in the mean time, I think stripping the trunk and deadening it will be first. Maybe this week, now that I have a carport.

Nice. You shouldn't have any trouble finding one down there. You might look in Vegas as well. I found a couple really nice low mileage ones there, that might be worth a trip. Cheap plane ticket, night at the casino and a road trip.

I got the alt, new serp, water pump belt, front Deka and big 3 in today. Here are some pics. With the new stator being 1/8" wider. We had to trim 1/8" off the rear alt bracket to make it fit. I have 14.4-14.5 volts at idle with all the acc running including both seat heaters, hvac, radio, and headlights.

If your tuning that low you could probably get away with not not having an ssf. But for some peace of mind you could drop tuning to 28hz.

Well the box runs from wheelwell to wheelwell and from the back seat to about 3" before the trunk opening starts. And there is only about 4" between the top of the box and the rear deck. So I guess it is already pretty well blocked off.

I'm going to be installing some audiowrap deadener, mlv and ccf in my 96 Cadillac eldorado.. I'll be covering the floorpan from firewall to the trunk, both doors, rear quarters from the back of the door to the trunk, and I'll also cover the rear wheel wells. My question is about behind the back seat and the rear deck lid. I'll have two sa10's ported in the trunk. I plan on removing the factory 6x9's in the rear deck to try to get more bass into the cabin. I'm not putting any mlv in the trunk. So now I'm wondering if I should mlv the back seat and rear deck, and if I should remove the rear speakers or not. Another question is how many sq ft of mlv should I get? I have an email in to Don about this question as well.

Do you have any audible port noise? If so, you could always look into some aero's, and I agree with m5 on a lower tuning. Which with aero ports would make it possible to tune lower, add port volume and cut down port noise.

Looks like it's gonna be loud. Great progress so far

What's your budget for this? And what do you currently have for equipment? So you can't afford to sell your current deck and buy one that's capable of running active? Like an alpine 9887, 9886 w/ pxa-h100, pioneer 880? You can get one of these for around $200-250 if you shop around. And if you don't already have the 100.4, you could buy a cheaper amp with similar power and a lesser crossover and save about $100. Which makes the active capable deck more reasonable. That also opens up your choices for running whatever speakers you want and not having to settle for a passive 2-way set now that will probably get replaced later. Not to mention it takes a lot of time to get an active setup to sound good. This would give you time tuning a 2-way active stage, and make it easier for you to tune a 3 way later down the road.

It's always nice to be able to mark things of the list when the list is so long...Don't forget the pics!! I won't. That's something I'm trying to work on. I always forget to stop and take pics while I'm working.

How much is a recone? Probably around 100. So $50 a year of use. That doesn't sound too bad.

All my parts are in. And it's going up on the lift on sunday. So Sunday night I should be able to mark the big 3, HO alt, new Deka front batt, overdrive pulley for alt, new smaller serpentine belt and water pump belt off my list. I also contacted Don at SDS for some butyl rope, mlv, and ccf which will go in when I run all the wires for the system.

Good job on moving this to the skar section ///M5. You'd think Kevin would just pay to stop all this bad publicity. Maybe some day he'll learn.

Could you be a little more vague? Lol

I finally got my shirt!

Here's a link to the sub deal, one Skar vvx-12 in a custom box shipped for $200. If you can't find the mb quart amp, something similar would be ok. I just know that amp is well made, makes rated rms power and is cheap. And the type r components always seem to get great reviews, get loud and sound good doing it.

Well if I was going to put together a budget system. I'd get mb quart dsc-4125 4 channel amp $150 Alpine type r 6.5" components spr17s $100-150 One SKAR 12" vvx sub in a ported box $200 Around $500. I'd run the alpines off 2 channels of the dsc4125 and bridge the back 2 channels to give the sub 500 watts.

Did you explain to him that the layers would be glued together? Effectively making one piece of mdf that is 2-3 times as thick.

Clarity & bump means more budget. You shouldn't recommend anything anyways as your e-boner towards what you run is absurd. First budget savings would be to go to a single sub with more cone area, but impossible for us to recommend without knowing box size constraints. I am generally an amp is an amp guy, but the Kenwoods lately I have seen are not worth owning. In your budget you should also be shopping used. It will help a ton. I realize you were hoping for recommendations, but availability is not so easy and your budget is rather constrained. You are starting to go down the right path though Thanks M5. Are Cadence component speakers any good? I think I found a good deal on a new pair of Cadence ZRS65KS 6.5" for only $55. I do have an amp that is powering the front speakers in my truck, but the problem is that I don't know what the RMS rating of the amp is. It was included in the Tremor package from Ford and Pioneer. Should I not bother with a 2 channel amp to power the front component speakers for now (I could buy it later on if my amp doesn't do the speakers justice)? The sub enclosure would be going in the cab of the truck behind the front seats. What enclosure would you recommend? I was thinking of getting 2 subs because my one that's behind the seats now is struggling to keep up with the Heavy Metal genre and Techno. Would 2 subs be better than 1? If I went to a ported enclosure, I would get one or two 10" subs. If I went sealed, then I would get two 12" subs. I would also build the enclosure to spec. I can't help you on the cadence components, but you need to consider more than rms rating on the stock amp in your truck. More importantly what ohm are the speakers that are installed now? Do some research about the Tremor package. That amp may not work at all with a standard 4 ohm speaker. Factory stuff often times runs at odd ohm loads. Now on the subs. Since your on such a tight budget, i would look at one larger sub instead of two smaller subs. It'll be cheaper. So maybe one 12 ported or one 15 sealed. Remember that subs only get slightly more expensive as they get bigger and cone area has a big effect on output.

I bought the 407, but haven't installed it yet. I went with it because it can work with the pxa-h100 and run a two way active front stage and sub stage. Not to mention alpine has the best iPod interface on the market. I bought mine six months ago used on eBay with the h100, and PAC tr7 for $500 shipped. So look around, you might find a good deal on one. I just found a listing on eBay. For a new in box 407 for $350 shipped in the lower 48 states. That's pretty cheap.

My alt tested ok with 15.0 volts!!