hondakilla98

If it was a 15 I'd trade my d4 for yours. If I remember correctly Fi only sells reconed for the sx in d1 and d2. But re did sell them in d4.

Is the new Q that much better? I guess what I'm asking is, if I can buy a used fully loaded Q for $185 shipped, Is the new Q that much better to spend $330 shipped? I know I'm comparing used to new, But, what does the new Q do better than the old one? Beside look sexier. And before I get any crap about not searching. I did. I went back three months on all three Fi forums and didn't find a thread comparing the old and new Q.

sorry but, I will never agree with that logic. Why should he spend money to lose it? That's how car stereo works. Your going to lose money. Unless your very frugal and get amazing deals on everything you buy. Everytime you upgrade or change equipment you lose money, especially if you buy new. Maybe your happiness isn't worth $50. But mine is. If i can be happier for a small amount of money then I'm all for it. It just depends on how you look at it. I would do the same thing if I was him. It's the same reason I go spend money at strip clubs once a month. It's throwing money away. But I enjoy it. And at least he can resell the subs.

If your gonna be stuck with the type e for a while. Then I say go for it. Buy another for $60 build a cheap box. And have decent bass untill you can step up. Then sell the two type e's for $100 to somebody on craigslist. Then your out what? Maybe $50? If it'll make you happy then don't listen to everybody else.

WTF! Hydraulics do not belong on a camaro. The only way that could be worse was if it was a corvette.

That's what I was wondering. But he said rolls. So his cousin got it somewhere. And I'm always up for saving some money.

And stop in Oregon on the way so I can hear it too.

Well that answered part of his question. Would it be cheaper to buy windshield sealant and is it the same thing?

We'll find out soon enough. I'm headed to a few local yards in search of parts in the next few days. The ktx-h100 is a tuning package consisting of a mic, usb cable, and software cd for your computer. Your thinking of the ktp-445, which is the 45x4 power pack. Yes I'm going to use a 4 channel amp, that's why i posted that i had decided on the DSC4125 instead of the DSC480. Which is 4x125 and 4x80(not 4x100). And I may still not be able to hear the difference, but at least i'll have more headroom. And that's always a good thing. The DSC4125 would also make a decent sub amp for 2 subs in the future with 2x500.

My doors don't have a pocket on the bottom. Just carpet and then a speaker grille. I wonder if the door itself is any different since mine is a 95.

I think your right. Especially after looking at the Exodus Anarchy 6.5's yesterday with 125 watt rms max. I think I'll have to buy the 4125.

Well let me start with goals. I want a clean system with good output. Over the last few months with my previous system, 98% of the time I had the sub turned way down. Just on enough to fill in the lows and sound good. Not overpowering like I had it before. That's when I decided that a Fi Q would be enough output wise for me. Since I wasn't turning up the RE SX15. Also the RE is wired at 2 ohm so it's only getting about 800 watts. I think the Q @ 1 ohm with about 1200 watts shouldn't have any trouble competing with the sx output wise. This thread has helped me realize that a 15 is the way to go for me. That and alot of time talking with a few friends. I plan on buying a Q, and if that isn't enough I can always sell it and buy an Xcon. They both have basically the same box specs. So I shouldn't need to build a new box either.

I want to run a Fi Q 18" off an saz-1500d in my new project, a 95 eldorado. I want to put it in the trunk. My trunk isn't tall enough to fire an 18 back so it'll have to fire up. I'm getting rid of the rear 6x9's, so I was thinking sub in the middle of the box firing up and a round port on either side firing into the empty speaker holes in the back deck. Box dimensions would be 38wide, 16.75tall with double baffle and 24 deep. Winisd is saying to tune 6.5 cu ft to 28hz i need two 4" round ports 10.15" long. That's .073 cu ft each. Or .015 total, and .24 for the sub. So .39 off 6.9 cu ft, giving me a net of 6.5 cu ft. Should the ports be flush with the top of the box, or stick up closer to the speaker holes in the back deck? and should I cut the carpet in the back deck for more airflow? Once the box is in the trunk there will be about 3-4 inches between the top of the box and rear deck of the car. I'm thinking I can put a notch in the back corner of the box(by the back of the car) for my hc1400 second battery. Then make an amp panel to mount against the back of the box to mount my amps on and hide the battery, and wires. So I'd need to subtract another .3 cu ft from the box for the battery notch. Giving me a new net of 6.2 cu ft.

i hope you're kidding you aren't kidding. being stupid is a bannable offense

I won an alpine IXA-W407, PXA-H100, and KTX-H100 on eBay. They should be here on friday. Next on the list is a 4 channel amp. I just need to decide which one I want. the MB DSC480 or DSC4125. For now, the 480 would be plenty. The problem is I'm not sure what my front stage will be later, and if I end up with 8ohm drivers the extra power would be nice. There's about a $50 difference between them in price.

The Tach and Speedo are analog, but it has a digital display on the bottom that can display a bunch of different info, and can be used for pulling codes. Theres also a digital fuel econ on one side and digital auto climate control on the other. So kinda. I just started looking for the trim piece at local yards. Hopefully I can find one. It has the 4.6L DOHC 32 valve V8 Northstar 275 hp and 300 ft lb of torque. I'll probably be hitting you up soon.

I don't want to lose my whole trunk. That's why I'm looking at 6 cu ft. Which according to Fi is fine for sealed. And I'm going to be running a Fi Q 18" probabaly with bp option. So an Rms rating of about 1200 watts. I think 2600 would be a bit much, don't you? I'm not looking at a BTL here. I want a clean sounding system with good output, not spl.

It says right in the description that it holds up to 3, 1/0 gauge wires. Where's the confusion?

The installs I've seen that use polyfill stapled it to the inside of the box.

I'm wondering how many people besides the OP and myself even know what your talking about?

+1 Also telling us about the rest of your system, goals, max box size, and budget for sub, amp, and box will help. When you ask a well thought out question with all the info on this forum you will get alot of help.

I don't know why I'm starting this. How do you know he will be fine with 45-50? I've read threads before where people argued over the "rule" 12-16 per sq ft. I just want your reason, personal experience with this sub, or?

Intel 2.4 core2duo, sapphire ati hd4850 1gb ddr3. In my HT case hooked up to my 65" DLP.

I used this port calculator PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES And it looks like you need more port area. It says 4 cu ft at 33 hz needs 72 sq in of port area. It's going to be hard to get that much port area and keep that tuning with those box dimensions. what are your max box dimensions? If you can make the box 2 inches taller it'll be easier. Here's one that works. 30x18x21 with 4.25" port, port length 1, 16. port length 2, 15". It gives you 70 sq in of port, 3.75 cu ft, and tuned to 33.4hz. Post up your max box dimensions and we can go from there.