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hondakilla98

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Posts posted by hondakilla98

  5. Posted

    I'm working on trading for a soundstream xxx 15. It still has the tarantula on the dust cap, so I'm assuming it hasn't been reconed. Were there any different versions? Are they all made by TC. Anything I need to look at besides measuring the coils, checking the color of the coil, and checking for any mechanical noise?

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  13. Posted

    I'd rather spend money on a sub box or different sub, than cut the panels. They only made 35,000 cars over 3 years. So parts are expensive and hard to find. And I like the idea of it looking all stock except for the deck. Making people wonder how it sounds so good with "no sub".

    I'm open to suggestions. I guess I could also use two cheap shallow 10's in MDF boxes.

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  14. Posted

    It's behind the rear seat arm rest insert. So, not a flat surface. It's possible, but I'm trying to not modify any of the interior. I saw one where he removed the arm rest insert and made an MDF ring that was wrapped in grill cloth. He was also running a ported fiberglass box.

    The cheap and easy solution is to build a slightly shallower box and put a 12" SI BM MKIV in it. That would give me 12" cone area with a sub that prefers around .5 cu ft. And the box could be 1" shallower.

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  15. Posted

    I tried to install the passenger side sub box. I don't think it's going to work. If the sub didn't stick an inch out of the box before excursion, then maybe. But I think it's going to hit the trim panel. I have it wired up and belted into the back seat for now. It sounds pretty good.

    Now my options are to make a thinner box with a thinner sub. Or buy a 1 cu ft fiberglass box and run one SD-2 10 on 400 watts. Or buy a 12" that's less than 5" deep for 1 cu ft fiberglass box. It's available for 2-8", 1-10", or 1-12".

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  17. Posted

    I marked and filled the sub mounting holes, made jumper wires for subs, drilled a hole and fed my power wire into each box, made two 4 gauge ground wires, took out the fuel tank brace, hooked up the power wire and grounds to the amp.

    Tomorrow I'm going to silicone and mount the sub boxes in the car, reinstall the tank brace, put all the carpet back in the trunk, and put the defroster/tweeter covers back on the dash. Then Wednesday I can install the subs.

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  19. Posted

    Maybe I'll just put another fuse in the trunk and have 4 gauge on the output.

    That would be the easiest route, I dislike those type of amp terminals.

    I wish it had round 4 gauge terminals. Then I could just use reducers.

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  22. Posted

    The N2 showed up today. The measurements listed are of the case not including the feet or terminals. So mounting it in the tank brace without cutting isn't happening.

    But it looks like it'll fit inside the spare tire well under the spare. I'm working on a mount now. This is better. Adjustments will be easier to access, since the spare is supposed to come out in a hurry.

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