hondakilla98
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Posts posted by hondakilla98
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Can you recommend a car that's really fast but also handles well in a wide variety of situations?
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Is the new Q that much better? I guess what I'm asking is, if I can buy a used fully loaded Q for $185 shipped, Is the new Q that much better to spend $330 shipped? I know I'm comparing used to new, But, what does the new Q do better than the old one? Beside look sexier.
And before I get any crap about not searching. I did. I went back three months on all three Fi forums and didn't find a thread comparing the old and new Q.
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WTF! Hydraulics do not belong on a camaro. The only way that could be worse was if it was a corvette.
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That's what I was wondering. But he said rolls. So his cousin got it somewhere. And I'm always up for saving some money.
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:partybanana: 
:droolcup: looks amazing, J. i'm in awe. drive up to washington so i can hear it
And stop in Oregon on the way so I can hear it too.
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Well that answered part of his question. Would it be cheaper to buy windshield sealant and is it the same thing?
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Yea, forgot about that. The interior changed in 96, actual door I would imagine is the same.
We'll find out soon enough. I'm headed to a few local yards in search of parts in the next few days.
I thought the ktx 100 was like a small amp for the speakers.
Will you use it with a 4 ch amp ?
100 or 125 watts will probably sound the same to your ears.
The ktx-h100 is a tuning package consisting of a mic, usb cable, and software cd for your computer. Your thinking of the ktp-445, which is the 45x4 power pack.
Yes I'm going to use a 4 channel amp, that's why i posted that i had decided on the DSC4125 instead of the DSC480. Which is 4x125 and 4x80(not 4x100). And I may still not be able to hear the difference, but at least i'll have more headroom. And that's always a good thing. The DSC4125 would also make a decent sub amp for 2 subs in the future with 2x500.
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My doors don't have a pocket on the bottom. Just carpet and then a speaker grille. I wonder if the door itself is any different since mine is a 95.
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I would go with the MB Quart 4125, never hurts to have more power for front stage.
I think your right. Especially after looking at the Exodus Anarchy 6.5's yesterday with 125 watt rms max. I think I'll have to buy the 4125.
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To the OP, if you can't fit a 18 ported buy a 15. So far from your posts I am not sure that the Q is right for you in the first place, buy you haven't shared goals so we all get to guess when we answer.
Well let me start with goals. I want a clean system with good output. Over the last few months with my previous system, 98% of the time I had the sub turned way down. Just on enough to fill in the lows and sound good. Not overpowering like I had it before. That's when I decided that a Fi Q would be enough output wise for me. Since I wasn't turning up the RE SX15. Also the RE is wired at 2 ohm so it's only getting about 800 watts. I think the Q @ 1 ohm with about 1200 watts shouldn't have any trouble competing with the sx output wise.
This thread has helped me realize that a 15 is the way to go for me. That and alot of time talking with a few friends. I plan on buying a Q, and if that isn't enough I can always sell it and buy an Xcon. They both have basically the same box specs. So I shouldn't need to build a new box either.
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why dont you try building a trunk wall.. construct the box inside the trunk.. for an 18" you need atleast 7cubicft.. if your not going to put some stuff in your trunk might aswell maximize the space, face the sub inside the car.. tuned at 40hz..sub facing up, port facing inside your car.. for the fi.. try to strap two saz1500d it would produce a clean 2600W.the fi 18 can handle it.. dont worry.. hehehe
i hope you're kidding
you aren't kidding. being stupid is a bannable offense
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I won an alpine IXA-W407, PXA-H100, and KTX-H100 on eBay. They should be here on friday.
Next on the list is a 4 channel amp. I just need to decide which one I want. the MB DSC480 or DSC4125. For now, the 480 would be plenty. The problem is I'm not sure what my front stage will be later, and if I end up with 8ohm drivers the extra power would be nice. There's about a $50 difference between them in price.0 -
Does it have a Digi dash? You needa get that outer trim panel too!
other then that it looks like on sexy piece of ace 
The Tach and Speedo are analog, but it has a digital display on the bottom that can display a bunch of different info, and can be used for pulling codes. Theres also a digital fuel econ on one side and digital auto climate control on the other. So kinda.
I just started looking for the trim piece at local yards. Hopefully I can find one.
Nice looking car...................for only $2000 ? What a Good deal!!
the interior and the leather seem in good shape.
What do you have under the hood ? Big power ?
It has the 4.6L DOHC 32 valve V8 Northstar 275 hp and 300 ft lb of torque.
Nice, I used to have a 97.... tore that thing apart with all the systems I had in it lol. If you need any help with it let me know, I know those cars inside and out. Gotta love flex =)
I'll probably be hitting you up soon.
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why dont you try building a trunk wall.. construct the box inside the trunk.. for an 18" you need atleast 7cubicft.. if your not going to put some stuff in your trunk might aswell maximize the space, face the sub inside the car.. tuned at 40hz..
sub facing up, port facing inside your car..
for the fi.. try to strap two saz1500d it would produce a clean 2600W.
the fi 18 can handle it.. dont worry.. hehehe
I don't want to lose my whole trunk. That's why I'm looking at 6 cu ft. Which according to Fi is fine for sealed. And I'm going to be running a Fi Q 18" probabaly with bp option. So an Rms rating of about 1200 watts. I think 2600 would be a bit much, don't you? I'm not looking at a BTL here. I want a clean sounding system with good output, not spl.
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It says right in the description that it holds up to 3, 1/0 gauge wires. Where's the confusion?
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Thank you both for your quick answers. When putting the fill in, should I glue it to the box to make sure it doesn't end up in the vent or in the cone area?
The installs I've seen that use polyfill stapled it to the inside of the box.
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A comment on that T1 2.2, careful of turning the boost up on that. The t1 rods are weak as hell as well as the intake manifold's design causes a lean condition in one of the cylinders.
I'm wondering how many people besides the OP and myself even know what your talking about?
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Your all over the place.
Slow down and put up a decent post if you want some help. This one fails!
+1
Also telling us about the rest of your system, goals, max box size, and budget for sub, amp, and box will help. When you ask a well thought out question with all the info on this forum you will get alot of help.
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You don't need 72 sq. inches of port area. 45-50 will be sufficient.
I don't know why I'm starting this. How do you know he will be fine with 45-50? I've read threads before where people argued over the "rule" 12-16 per sq ft. I just want your reason, personal experience with this sub, or?
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Intel 2.4 core2duo, sapphire ati hd4850 1gb ddr3. In my HT case hooked up to my 65" DLP.
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I used this port calculator PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES And it looks like you need more port area. It says 4 cu ft at 33 hz needs 72 sq in of port area. It's going to be hard to get that much port area and keep that tuning with those box dimensions. what are your max box dimensions? If you can make the box 2 inches taller it'll be easier. Here's one that works. 30x18x21 with 4.25" port, port length 1, 16. port length 2, 15". It gives you 70 sq in of port, 3.75 cu ft, and tuned to 33.4hz. Post up your max box dimensions and we can go from there.
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I used the calculator. And it says 120 sq in. With ports that big they have to be way too long to be feasible. So it looks like sealed is the way to go. The only way ports make sense is in a high tuned spl box. Then I could have enough port area and a port short enough to fit in the box. I used winisd to chart the sub and it doesn't look good. Did I do something wrong or read the graph incorrectly? The one that's nice and flat is the ported curve.
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I just went to precision sound products and used their port calculator. It says with 2-6" aeros I'll need 27.5" ports. My max port length in that box is gonna be about 14". Can you put elbows on a round port to make it longer? And would I notice port noise in the car if i went with non aero's since the box is in the trunk?
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I plan on running aero ports. I'm just going off what winisd said for port. I was under the impression that when you run aero's that the rule of 12-16 went out the window. So two 6" aero's? If your going to tell me what I'm planning is wrong then you should also tell me how to correct it.
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Help me make the most out of my temp setup
in General Audio
Posted
If your gonna be stuck with the type e for a while. Then I say go for it. Buy another for $60 build a cheap box. And have decent bass untill you can step up. Then sell the two type e's for $100 to somebody on craigslist. Then your out what? Maybe $50? If it'll make you happy then don't listen to everybody else.