hondakilla98
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Posts posted by hondakilla98
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so are the subs gonna be sealed off in the trunk ?? why are they facing back in the trunk with the port ?? shouldnt that be facing forwards towards the cabin lolI will be removing the factory 6x9's, carpet and the factory sub is already out. There is about 6" above the box of free space, so it's not really any different than any other trunk install with the subs and ports firing rearward. The box will be symetrical, so I can always try it out firing forward.
what do you plan on doing to keep he sub box inplace ? have you thought about doing sub and port faced into the back seat? the battery on the driver side hump, and a smaller false floor for the amps would be sweet?I'm not sure yet. I'll probably make some brackets to tie into the rear seat bracing and the rear deck to hold the box since I can't secure it on the bottom. My girl wants a false floor to stash a go bag, and to make it easier for her short ass to reach the bottom of the trunk. So I can't go too shallow with it. I need to take some measurments and see what my options are. But right now I just want to get everything playing.
be sure to give us your opinion on before/after noise difference.I'm not expecting a big difference in noise reduction. The car is already super quiet. And I won't be able to compare the sound of the mids, since they were replaced at the same time. But if I notice a difference I'll let you know.
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Here it is with the adaptor painted and wire run through the boot into the car.
Tweeters I'll be using, mounted in some mdf rings. This will be the temporary location for these until I do pillars. They aren't wired yet.
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nice ride bro
Thanks.
It's 70 and sunny today, so I'm making a little more progress.
Here's the door with the Velcro in place to hold the mlv.
The Velcro on the mlv, ccf glued to the mlv and cut out for the Velcro.
The mlv and ccf installed ready for the door panel.
I took the adaptor off to paint it before I put everything back together. I also traced the outline of the mlv on another piece of mlv for the other door. While I'm waiting for the paint to dry, I'm going to work on running speaker wire through the door boot.
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I finally had another dry day to work on it. Hopefully tomorrow will be another.
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I've decided to go with 2-4" aero ports instead of the kerf port.
And I started installing my door speakers today. Here are some pics.
Here is the door with some deadener and butyl rope installed.
Some shots of the inside of the door.
Here's the adaptor traced out.
Adaptor cut out.
Speaker test fit in the adaptor.
Adaptor side shot
Adaptor and mid installed.
Adaptor, mid, deadener, etc installed
And I got the ccf mostly cutout today.
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You could have toolmaker make you some 90 degree reducers.
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I haven't had a car that I could run kicks in. I'm a big guy and have size 16 feet. So there's generally not any extra space. I've had components in the doors, and components with the mid in the door and the tweet on the dash or A pillar. The last set I had were Focal Access 165 a1's with the tweets off axis, on the A pillars. They sounded decent, but the stage seemed a little low. The crossover on them was around 5k. When I went active and replaced the Focal tweets with the HDS tweets I have now, I started lowering the crossover point. As the crossover point went down, my stage became higher. The HDS tweets have a clean FR down to 1.8-2k. With some eq I have had them crossed at 1.6k and they sounded great. I'm not willing to change the location of my mids to get better staging, so I did the next best thing. I moved as much of the high frequency up and on axis as I could. What was really lacking with the Focal mids was midbass. It was almost non existant. So that was one of my goals for mids. The HDS look good, but bigger is better, So when I saw John's car with the Neo 8's. I started thinking.
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I want to cross the tweeters as low as possible, to raise my soundstage. I had them installed in my Jeep on the dash for a while and had them crossed at 1.6k 24DB slope. And some focal 6.5's down in the doors. They sounded great and really raised the stage, but I wasn't running them very hard either. So I'll have to get them installed and see. The main reason I was asking, is because M5 commented before. He was concerned about how high the 7's could play and how low the tweeters could play.
I think I'll just install the 7's and see how it sounds. I just hate redoing work, which is why I started this thread.
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This is looking like a very clean and well planned install. Nice work.
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What type of crossover point are you looking at? How low can the tweeter play?
Generally speaking if you are using them in stock locations I would recommend the 7" over an 8" for a 2-way application due to the slightly improved off-axis response of the 7" driver.....unless you are using an extremely low crossover point. And no offense to Jacob but personally I would put a little more faith into the engineers at DST. I'm sure many are pleased with the sound of the Sundown Pro's, but if I were a betting man I would put my $$ on the Peerless to perform better overall.
The highs will be on axis, chin height on the A pillar. The mids will be in the factory location in the doors, about knee level. They will be crossed between 1.2k and 2k, it will depend on how low I can get the highs to play.
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I have been accumulating equipment for a while. Originally I was going to be installing everything in my 96 Eldorado. Things change and now I'm finally making progress installing everything in my new ride. An 03 Lincoln town car. I've spent some time talking with BigJon here on the forum. He has large format teeters on his A pillars and Sundown neo 8's in his doors. I originally wanted 8's for the Cadillac, but they wouldn't work without modifying the door panels. So I bought Peerless Nomex 7" 830875 for my mids, and large format Scan-Speak Discovery D2608/9130 for my highs. Now I'm wondering if I should stick with the 7's or switch them out for 8's that I know will fit behind the factory panels. My sub stage will consist of 3 sa8's ported, running off an SAZ-1500D. My front stage will be running active off an alpine PXA-H100 crossover, and be powered by an MB Quart DSC-4125. I had a lot of help choosing the speakers I have now. The fact that Sundown hasn't released any specs besides an fr graph that wasn't done to any standard that's comparable apples to apples doesn't help either. So let's hear your opinions.
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Looking good Lunchbox. It's still weird to see you adding weight to a Camaro, lol.
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Nice planning and great execution so far. I like your simple and creative solution for the doors. Your sub setup sounds interesting as well.
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You gotta love this forum. You just saved some money and time.
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Is this a build log or a bitch fest?
The build looks good Steve, and hopefully soon your build log will be back on track. Maybe a Moderator could step in and clean up the thread, or just have certain people post somewhere else.
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not sure if i told yall,
mechman picked up me. so im on team mechman now,
i installed a 300 amp h/o today, i have to tell you .. the alternator is built like no other i have seen before.. and i have had a few H/os in my day....
i installed it, and played with it very quickly, i was paying my chicks little brother for some help around the house this weekend.. so i didnt want to pay him to listen to my stereo with me!! we had other work today.... good kid.. wanted to work to get some money up to take a chick out...
i can say this...
my old h/o 240 amp, at 1800 RPM charged at 14.5 volts or so.. and when i played full tilt it would drop to 13.1 at times...
the mech man... only charges at 14.1 at 1800 RMP.... but while playing it only drops to 13.8 so it doing its damn thing...
im going to see if i can get crownvic to help me more with the dioed mod for the fords... i need to trick my car into thinking its charging less then it really is... its a PCM controlled alt.... it puts out what the computer tells it to ... but not for long i hope!.
pics and vics to come on all that!!
Let me know how the diode mod goes, I'm interested to try that on my car.
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Looking good Jon. I'm looking forward to having that alt in my town car.
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Hey Jon, What do you have the neo 8's crossed at on the top and bottom? Are you running them each off one channel of the 100.4?
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I haven't been able to find a good post detailing the differences and improvements between the V1 and V1.5 SA8. If Jacob or someone else that knows could post up I'd appreciate it. Also is the motor the same on all SA8 v1/v1.5? I've seen two different basket styles. Can they be run together? I'm getting some old SA8 v1 motors and need some info. I've emailed Jacob as well, so if I get info from him I'll post it here.
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I'm also trying to decide what to do with the two amps and battery. I could take out the spare tire, put the battery in the well for the bottom of the tire. And then build an mdf rack to mount both amps above the battery. Then I could put the spare tire cover back on and all you would see is the sub box sitting on top of the gas tank. Another option I'm considering is to do a false floor in the trunk with the battery, both amps stacked(with the top amp on a hinged plate to access the bottom amp), and a small storage area for a "go bag". There would be a hinged cover that would go on top and I'd, have a very useful, still good sized trunk. Option three is to do the battery and amps in the spare tire well and the false floor for the go bag, jumper cables, a small safe, etc...
Here's a pic of the trunk as it is from the factory.
Here is what would be under the false floor.
Here's with the false floor in place.
This still leaves me a nice usable trunk, and I wouldn't have to put grilles on the subs, since they sit up above anything I'd put in the trunk. I'll work on a different photo and cheesy "Paint" work for the other setup tomorrow. I figure ventilation will be easier with everything in the spare tire well. With this setup I think I'd have to have a bump on the right side by the spare tire cover, to run an intake and exhaust fan for cooling.
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Here's what I'm thinking for the box, but with 3 subs instead of 4.
Light grey on the box to match the trunk and black on the port and recessed baffle.
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How many volt meters are you going to run? And why more than one?
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I've decided to switch up my sub stage from 2 sa10's to 3 sa8's. I've been working on dimensions and box calculations and here is what I've come up with so far.
Box outer dimensions with double baffle
41"wide, 10.5"tall, 17.875"deep
gross box volume 3.214 cu ft
sub displacement .08*3=.24 cu ft
Slot port tuned to 33.6 hz 39.7"
slot port volume .827 cu ft
slot port wall displacement .14 cu ft
total port displacement .96 cu ft
3.21 gross box volume
-.24 sub displacement
-.96 port volume
-.02 for 2 vertical dowels 1.5" diameter
-.01 for front wall to port wall dowel 1.5"
-.015 for front wall to back wall dowel 1.5"
-.04 45'd corners
1.925 cu ft net tuned to 33.6hz
.64 per sub
500-550 watts per sub
Which is right in line with Jacob's power vs box size post.
If anyone sees anything off with this let me know.
I'm buying 3 motors for cheap and reconing them to D4 so i can wire them to .66, I have more 1/0 wire on the way so I can put my second battery in, and do the big 3. And I'm buying Bigjon's H/O alternator soon. Which should give me adequate electrical.
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So i've been working on dimensions and box calculations and here is what I've come up with so far.
Box outer dimensions with double baffle
41"wide, 10.5"tall, 17.875"deep
gross box volume 3.214 cu ft
sub displacement .08*3=.24 cu ft
Slot port tuned to 33.6 hz 39.7"
slot port volume .827 cu ft
slot port wall displacement .14 cu ft
total port displacement .96 cu ft
3.21 gross box volume
-.24 sub displacement
-.96 port volume
-.02 for 2 vertical dowels 1.5" diameter
-.01 for front wall to port wall dowel 1.5"
-.015 for front wall to back wall dowel 1.5"
-.04 45'd corners
1.925 cu ft net tuned to 33.6hz
.64 per sub
500-550 watts per sub
Which is right in line with Jacob's power vs box size post.
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03 Lincoln Town Car Daily Driver Build
in Build Logs
Posted · Edited by hondakilla98
Mlv is mass loaded vinyl, a noise barrier. CCF Is a decoupler, to stop vibration from the panel behind the mlv from resonating through. Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ for more info.