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hondakilla98

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Posts posted by hondakilla98


  1. Package tray, third brake light, and c pillar trim back in.

    20140711_194308.jpg

    Sub holes cut, they still need mounted and wired.

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    Crossovers mounted with Velcro. And a piece of ccf covering it so I don't get any rattles.

    20140711_174956.jpg

    Tweeter in the factory mount.

    20140711_164826.jpg

    I got the driver side wired up this morning. I need to mount the subs, and amp. Prep the doors and install the mids. And put the interior back together. Hopefully my amp will show up today and I can get started mounting it.


  2. I got the wheel wells covered in ccf and MLV.

    I'm trying to decide what to do about the gap above.

    20140709_162602.jpg

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    Factory tweeter and mount next to Focal tweet and bucket.

    20140709_171328.jpg

    Put end on the tweeter wires, marked all the positive wires (I always run stripe as negative, these are opposite).

    20140709_175630.jpg

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    Focal bucket sitting on factory mount. I just need to get some nylock nuts to mount it.

    20140709_175716.jpg


  3. I checked with a sub in the box. .25" should be good to clear the magnet. I'll get to use my router tomorrow! Too bad I don't have a Jasper jig to cut the sub hole. Not that you'll see it anyway.

    I also cut a piece of cardboard 5.5"x7.5" to simulate the massive audio n2. It fits, but I'll probably have to use 90° adapters on the RCA's. That's assuming the feet are included in their measurements.


  4. So, I forgot that I was thinking about using 1/2" plywood for back of the box when I decided on the depth. The box is 5.5" total with .75" walls. That gives me a mounting depth of 4.75". The SD-2 10" is listed as 4.94" mounting depth. I haven't measured yet to make sure. But right now I need to come up with .2". Do I use my router on the inside of the box to clear the magnet? Make a spacer ring to go between the sub and top plate? Remake all the sides at 4.25" instead of 4" like they're now. I'll measure the actual sub depth when I get home from work. I'm leaving toward using the router, that'll keep the sub from getting any closer to the interior trim panel.


  5. I'd like to not cut the fuel tank brace. I think the Massive Audio N2 will fit. It's 800 RMS at 1 ohm. I'm not going to be able to hear the difference between 800 and 1200 watts anyway. I'm going to make a cardboard template to double check.

    I got the peices of my box cut and ready to assemble. Here are a couple crummy pics.

    20140707_171618.jpg

    20140707_171611.jpg

    It should net .5 cu ft.


  6. I didn't even know she was still alive. I found a picture of her when she was mine, about 9 years ago.

    I thought I was going to have to put her down a year and a half ago. But her tumors stopped growing, until last week. She's still happy for now. At least I had lots of warning. Here she is at 4.

    puppy35.jpg


  7. Nice work. Stock Pontiac batting makes me laugh, what you are doing is going to be huge

    I'm tempted to do more of the car. But I think I'll just finish the wheel wells and do the doors.

    I'm wondering if just doing the well inside the quarter panel will be enough. Or if I should try to do more.


  8. This made a big difference. I will do the other half of the wheel wells tomorrow, start the sub boxes and mount my amp in the trunk.

    On a less positive note. It looks like my 10 year old pit bull Lexus only has a month or two before I'll have to put her down. She has mast cell tumors.


  9. I got the rear deck and back seat covered in ccf and mlv. Here are a few pics.

    Here are the RCA's wrapped in ccf and electrical tape. So they don't rattle on the fuel tank. Damn blurry picture.

    20140706_154310.jpg

    Ccf and mlv in the window.

    20140706_165609.jpg

    RCA's wrapped and run over the tank.

    20140706_165613.jpg

    Driver side going in.

    20140706_175229.jpg

    Gluing the two halves together and to the top.

    20140706_180445.jpg

    Wheel wells wrapped and glued.

    20140706_192729.jpg

    20140706_192746.jpg


  10. Probably just trying to do what most people try to do. Get as loud as they can while still sounding decent playing music

    Exactly... My bad if my terminology was wrong.

    I had a similar conversation with m5 when I first joined this forum. He comes across harsh, but he knows what he's talking about. And is great at helping put together components for an active stage. If you decide to go that route in the future.


  11. Here's the grommet and 1/0 gauge wire with some electrical tape to fit the grommet. I put a zip tie on either side to keep it from moving.

    2014-07-03%2021.21.35.jpg

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    Ran around the strut tower and zip tied. The two white zip ties are where the fuse will go. New die hard AGM courtesy of the previous owner. Unfortunately the old battery must have exploded. Because all the paint under the tray is a mess.

    20140703_170628.jpg

    Power wire running down the passenger side and into the trunk. Still needs zip tired to the factory loom. The RCA's run down the middle next to the console. They'll get wrapped in ccf and run over the gas tank.

    20140703_170704.jpg

    Here's a shot after I got the previous deck out.

    20140701_162047_5.jpg

    It's all back together, but it's coming apart again. My center vents won't stay open. So I get to take the day apart again.

    Here's it installed

    20140703_214811.jpg


  12. I got my power wire ran today. There was a hole behind the glove box, right behind the passenger strut tower. It was to small, so I drilled it out. Here's my hole saw with a bunch of tape and some heat shrink, to make it the size of the original hole.

    2014-07-03%2021.20.29.jpg

    Here's the hole after I took out the plug and taped a garbage bag to catch all the metal shavings.

    20140703_154139.jpg

    After cutting it.

    20140703_154421.jpg

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