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hove

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Posts posted by hove

  2. Posted · Edited by hove

    I see you finally got a new car

    hah

    yeah Mac finally lol. Mbar my signature says it

    18btl fully loaded running off a saz-2000D, box is being designed and built now. its going to be about 6-7 cubes after displacement tuned to 32

    2 way active front stage, sax-100.4 mli-65 for mids and Kicker 08KS20 tweets might change my mind on them. still looking for some idea's

    2 runs of 0 gauge to the back

    i am either getting an XS 3100 or a deka depends on how the check looks on the 10th with a few other things i am ordering from a friend

    i got the trunk back half dampen gonna Finnish the trunk and roof and doors when the speakers come in

    i have had some funny bad luck so far

    when i was swamping the battery and doing my big 3 yesterday i had to run up to the store real fast and get some stuff so i locked my doors and trunk because the car was still outside. My intentions were to use my key to open the door but that didn't happen, so i had to call a lock smith to come open me up waste of 120 bucks and someone stole my center caps last night

    oh well LOL

    MORE PICS COMING SOON

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  3. Posted · Edited by hove

    i just started my build today. rain slow me down a bit but still got some good stuff finnished with a small amount of time.

    this is my first big build. I am doing pretty good i think lol

    ~pre-head unit~

    IMG_0096.jpg

    ~old head unit just until the new one got here, i got a new pioneer 6100BT *ill get a pic up soon*

    IMG_0099.jpg

    ~just got the back hatch for my trunk done ran out of day light and energy~*not bad for the first time useing dampener lol*

    IMG_0122.jpg

    IMG_0127.jpg

    ~battery befor i did the BIG3~ *there was a small wire going from a fuse box above the battery to the battery i dident change the size just put some new wire*

    IMG_0125.jpg

    IMG_0126.jpg

    i have some better battery terminals comming also

    alot more to come. just got the car last week lol.

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  4. Posted

    I've heard great things about the mli65's, can cross them over down to ~54hz (from denim).

    6 3/4 is slightly larger than 6.5, so you definitely won't have to cut anything, they should drop in just fine.

    thanks jay and brandon

    could someone with a running 18 btl suggest a good crossover point?

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  7. Posted

    If you own an 06 Envoy, why would you put money in deadening and fabrication for the door, if you are thinking of changing to an 07 like your sig states?

    sorry my sig is wrong i forgot to change it to an 06 there was 2 at the lot i was looking at i ended up taking the 06 for better month price lol. thanks for reminding me to change it lol

    I AM A go out for my birthday 2night even tho its on the 24th so if i dont get back to ur ideas on helping me ill get to them asap

    thanks guys!!

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  8. Posted · Edited by hove

    ok fellaz, i finally got my car and i am about to start my build. (i will make a build log soon)

    a month or so back you guys helped me decide to go 2 way active and not components, so thats what i am getting ready to do.

    what i need help with is what to BUY!! time to shop lol

    i have a sax-100.4 for my amp for the setup. I now own a 2006 gmc envoy.

    i used crutchfield as my source to find out the size of my front stage speekers witch are 6-3/4".

    so i need help finding the right mid-bass and tweet. i have been looking at the mli-65 for my mid and no idea on the tweet yet i have no experience with any sets of tweets so any ideas will help!

    will the mli-65 give me a fitting issue? if so what will i need to order or cut?

    i will be running a btl 18 on a saz-2000D if that has anything to do with my front stage

    i am also leaning towards no rear fill enless i should depends on what you guys think.

    my main goal is just to beable to hear the music with the bass and the people in the back seat can hear alittle also..

    so please toss me some ideas help me make my decision!

    i apprecheate all ur guys time and effort to help me.

    (i suck at spelling btw)

    thanks!!!

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  9. Posted

    if your not going to play your system with the car off then it wont really be needed (some use it when using two different batteries but you dont have to).

    then how do i wire it? parallel? thought u had to have one with another battery

    you dont have to have one... it helps when you have 2 diff batterys connected and you play ur system with ur car off it helps charge each other i think from what i have read.

    you probably wont play ur system with ur car off since its for a daily driver, most daily drives drive and bump, from what i have seen atleast.

    you got a nice set up goin for your self man your gonna be pounding like a champ!!!

    get a volt meter also to help you monitor ur voltage.

    what kind of Head unit u got?

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  10. Posted

    just a quick one here guys.

    i currently own a optima red top grp35 and 2 kenetik hc800s.

    i am running a saz-2000d and sax-100.4

    sub is the btl 18 fully loaded

    my question is...

    i am getting a HO alt as soon as i figure out what car i am doing this to

    but do i need to change my battery's. i am putting the optima up front witch is brand new.the hc800's come from the old setup but still work fine.

    Will the hc800s be enough for what i have and will they hold up until i get my HO alt?

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  11. Posted

    i got fully loaded, coiling option and everything and got the dual 2 version

    alright then your good bro, all you need to do is decide on what amp you want. get the refurb 3000D and use the rest of the cash on a extra batt and deadener.

    good luck

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  12. Posted

    i have a HO 200 amp alternator. dont have any extra batteries(just havent ordered). so u got the 3000d referbished? and use it on 1 fi btl loaded right? its what im thinking of doing. and reccomend a good battery?

    i am running a Kinetik hc2400..were you going th purchase the "New Heatsink" B stock SAZ 3000d?

    yea thats what i was going to get. and Jay-cee i got the Hixm Coil extra. im leaning between the 2 amps. kinda want the 3000d and turn the gains down a little and have room for later. but if i get the 2000d its new and has 2 year warranty.

    so the only extra option you got was the coil? no cooling option or anything? and did you order the D2 or D1 btl?

    i hope you orderd the cooling option, i think that is almost a must for a daily driver sub

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  13. Posted · Edited by hove

    ok, i found some sundown amps. which one should i get?

    http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_83&products_id=210

    or the one with older style heatsinks. they come with 1 year warranty so i should be good. just sucks on the wait time. i think the new style heatsinks. as it should perform better

    you can get the saz-3000D refurb if you want. i personally hate refurbished things but im sure the sundown refurbs are great. my friend mac n cheese got a referb one and he had to send it in, i cant remember what exactly happend but ya maybe he will chime in and tell you what happend to his 3000D.

    if you get the 3000d or the 2000D or whatever you get. make sure you have the Duel 2 ohm option so you can drop the sub down to 1 ohm.

    the 3000d puts out 3k watts at 1 ohm and i know the BTL can take it aslong as ur smart with the volume knob and the gain/settings.

    maybe someone a little smarter can add to this but since this is ur first setup maybe going with 3k watt amp on a sub that the compony says handles 2k watts might not be smart for ur first setup.

    its completly up to you my friend i know for a fact the sub can handle that amp you just really need to be smart with the settings and the box needs to be perfect for everything to be ok.

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  14. Posted

    how about this. if money dosent matter, hands down whats the best amp to power my fi btl 18?

    honestly, i would really try and go for the sundown saz-2000D! i am running an 18" btl also and i have a sundown 2000D. i did alot of research on here befor i orderd and from everything i gatherd from all the guys on here SUNDOWN is a great company the amp is sweet looking i love it!

    being your first setup this is what i call a big boy setup lol. So take your time on this build man, order the sundown 2000D honestly you will love it i have no doubt. if money is tight after you order ur sundown 2000d take ur time and order everything else as ur money comes be paitence it will pay off in the end!!

    good idea getting ur HO alt you will need it, make sure you do the big 3 with it.

    for a second battery go with like a kenetik 800 or higher or XS batteries or DEKA is pretty good from what i hear.

    Knuconceptz wireing is great also and its not very expensive!

    i saw that you said you will worry about ur front stage spekers later, that might be an issue if you want to get the WOW effect from the people listing to your system. if the song sounds like shit so will the bass enless ur playing a pure bass song or just some tones. i am sure this is going to be a daily driver so your gonna need a good front stage also. (go with a sundown 100.4 amp) :)

    you will need to deaden your car for sure! thats were SECONDSKIN comes in look into them for sure!

    if you have any questions at all theres alot of great guys on this site that can help you like they helped me!

    where did u get ur amp? i saw a 3500 d from sundown from ebay for 800. money isnt really a matter. ill have a few hundred more every week. thing is i have to order everything online, using paypal.

    go to soundsolutionsaudio.com and order it from them. just go with the 2000D it will be a PERFECT match for you and you are getting it from SSA so you will have a garenteed good product dont order from ebay just get it from SSA. the guys are great shipping is probobly free and it comes in quick and safe!

    even if money is not an issue there is no reason to spend it like bill gates get everything you need from the right place and the right price. they use paypal also so you can use ur paypal cash to order.

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  15. Posted · Edited by hove

    how about this. if money dosent matter, hands down whats the best amp to power my fi btl 18?

    honestly, i would really try and go for the sundown saz-2000D! i am running an 18" btl also and i have a sundown 2000D. i did alot of research on here befor i orderd and from everything i gatherd from all the guys on here SUNDOWN is a great company the amp is sweet looking i love it!

    being your first setup this is what i call a big boy setup lol. So take your time on this build man, order the sundown 2000D honestly you will love it i have no doubt. if money is tight after you order ur sundown 2000d take ur time and order everything else as ur money comes be paitence it will pay off in the end!!

    good idea getting ur HO alt you will need it, make sure you do the big 3 with it.

    for a second battery go with like a kenetik 800 or higher or XS batteries or DEKA is pretty good from what i hear.

    Knuconceptz wireing is great also and its not very expensive!

    i saw that you said you will worry about ur front stage spekers later, that might be an issue if you want to get the WOW effect from the people listing to your system. if the song sounds like shit so will the bass enless ur playing a pure bass song or just some tones. i am sure this is going to be a daily driver so your gonna need a good front stage also. (go with a sundown 100.4 amp) :)

    you will need to deaden your car for sure! thats were SECONDSKIN comes in look into them for sure!

    if you have any questions at all theres alot of great guys on this site that can help you like they helped me!

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  17. Posted

    lol...

    well deep loud bass is ur goal witch is nice, what kind of car do you have? how much trunk space are we looking at? the BTL is a great drver and will bring you the deep loud bass you want. it comes in 12" 15" 18" so you need to decide with what size you want and you also need to make sure you have the electrical upgrades in ur car to handle one of these monsters.

    so let us know more of ur goals and trunk size and budget for amp/sub combo and we can give you alot of good ideas/answers.

    good luck

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  19. Posted

    which sub can get loud with maintaining good sq and which is just overall better. ill be gettin 2 12's they'd be goin in a 4 cube box tunned to 32hz. either would be runnin on a aq2200d amp.

    so any input?

    i have heard both and i personally LOVE all FI products not just because i use them lol.

    i am not sure if the alpines have a recon option or not but with the FI sub if you do someway blow them you can get a recon insted of ordering a hole new sub

    the q's have great sound and can get pretty loud also!

    just my opinion

    good luck

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  20. Posted · Edited by hove

    Just got the BTL fully loaded 18" in. it's in a transmission line box in the back of my envoy XL. taking up all my trunk space along with the removal of the third row. being powered with Audio Que's 2200D amp. was wondering what comps i should be looking at for my doors and im putting a row of 6x9's facing forward behind the headrests of the second row on top of the box for some extra midbass. was wondering if anyone could give me a hand? not looking to spend over 300 for each set of comps and ill drop probably around the same for the 6x9 pairs. i've been looking at the kappa perfect 6.1's by infinity and audioque's component sets. thanks for the help.

    -d.kish

    i am running an 18" btl also and i recently asked the same question you are asking and i am also probably gonna be useing an envoy.

    what i decided to do was run a 2-way active setup for my front stage and from what i have heard and read i wont need any rear fillers.

    you should look into doing the same thing

    for mids i will probobly useing mli-65 mach 5 audio mids

    i am still undecided on what highs i am useing

    a 2-way active setup is mid/high in each door upfront run to an amp

    i am useing a sax-100.4

    if you do something like that i think you would be happy!!

    i am still kind of new but i think this would work out for you

    this is just my opinion. i hope this helps you

    good luck

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  21. Posted

    Im a little curious about that? deaden and seal. you mean deaden the inner door skin? or outer? both? also when you say seal would running the sheets of deadener over any cutouts in the inner door skin be enough?

    here is some reliable information. showdown

    basicly the idea is to reduce resonance of sheet metal, and seal the access holes off to seperate the rear wave of the speaker from the front. the latter prevents cancelation.

    then there is the barrier, better explained by the showdown guy.

    i was planing on useing second skin all over my door. will that be fine?

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  22. Posted · Edited by hove

    You can search online or in this thread about active and im sure some previous posts will show up. Active is running your speakers bandpassed either using your amp or head unit(equalizer) instead of having a crossover between your speakers and amp, which is passsive or running component sets (your letting your amp or h/u take place of the passive crossover in an active setup).

    You can run a 2-way or 3-way setup with an active front stage. The 2-way consist of a tweeter and mid-bass/mid-range depending on your goals taste or performance. The 3-way consist of a tweeter, mid-range and a mid-bass speaker. These speakers can be same brand but most people switch up and buy a tweeter from this company, a mid-range from this company and so on but it doesnt matter it depends on what you like and purchase.

    If someone can make this sound better they will chime in, just my .02.

    that makes sence to me jay, i apprecheate it!

    i am pretty much useing my build for DAILY use, so would a 3 way active upfront be good and just keep the rear stock for just rear fillers or completly turn the rear off?

    my main goal is to just have a very good sounding car all together.

    i just wanna do it right and have it sound good for daily with mostly rap music playing.

    3way is a bad idea for u, i wouldn't recommend it for a first time active install. do a 2way with a mid and a tweeter for example. there are other things you can do like a mid bass and a fullrange or horns, etc.

    u got the sundown 100.4 allready right? that can take care of all the processing. although an in dash unit is hellz easier. other advantages of indash are ussually Time allignment and eq.

    yes i have the 100.4 already. I am gonna go 2way active for my first time that seems like the best way for me.

    so whats a good mid and tweet for me to get? my goal with going active is to just beable to have good sound along with the bass i am going to have. i am open to any idea's...

    also when i do get my mid and my tweet do i just run them to there own channel on the amp? simple "+ to - " for all 4.

    i was thinking for mids i would do MLI-65. My link

    thoes look amazing plus i trust all the companys on this site so i would like to keep my money as much as possible to all the companys with are with this fourm and suggestions from you guys

    Thanks for all the time and teaching and help guys!

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  23. Posted · Edited by hove

    You can search online or in this thread about active and im sure some previous posts will show up. Active is running your speakers bandpassed either using your amp or head unit(equalizer) instead of having a crossover between your speakers and amp, which is passsive or running component sets (your letting your amp or h/u take place of the passive crossover in an active setup).

    You can run a 2-way or 3-way setup with an active front stage. The 2-way consist of a tweeter and mid-bass/mid-range depending on your goals taste or performance. The 3-way consist of a tweeter, mid-range and a mid-bass speaker. These speakers can be same brand but most people switch up and buy a tweeter from this company, a mid-range from this company and so on but it doesnt matter it depends on what you like and purchase.

    If someone can make this sound better they will chime in, just my .02.

    that makes sence to me jay, i apprecheate it!

    i am pretty much useing my build for DAILY use, so would a 3 way active upfront be good and just keep the rear stock for just rear fillers or completly turn the rear off?

    my main goal is to just have a very good sounding car all together.

    i just wanna do it right and have it sound good for daily with mostly rap music playing.

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  24. Posted

    If this is your first time running components, I might recommend staying with components vs going active. With components everything is matched with proper passive crossover networks.

    Best advice is to go out and listen to various component systems at a store(s) near you and see what you like.

    The Focal Access line is a decent line to look into.

    Good luck

    i have had components befor in my pervious car's/builds. so i know how components work. i am really intrested in trying something new and i have seen some of the others on here talking about an active set up so i am very intrested in trying something new and learning.

    where can i read up on an active setup?

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  25. Posted

    Ever thought of going active with that amp?

    x2

    skip the rear door and run active upfront with the 100.4

    The best advice given all morning by you two fellas. I went active one month ago and never looked back since then, the sound quality was past impressive. Im trying to get all my friends who have systems are in into them to go active, one is on the verge.

    if going active is the way to go ill do it! i dont exactly know what that does tho. could one of you teach me or tell me where i can go read up on it and what exactly it does

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