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crazytexan

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Posts posted by crazytexan

  1. Posted

    The comment was specifically about the sub and how I feel it sounds. Tuned right, nice enclosures, they still have that sound to me.

    . Good installation wins over driver choice any day of the week.
    hate to disagree there. A good install I believe is nothing without a nice driver to go along. Agree to disagree, simply.

    Thanks buddy. I can never have to time back that I spent to read this idiotic comment. *waves at the 30 seconds I lost to this guy*

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  7. Posted

    so what do you suggest? my head unit has a preamp but will i need a secondary amp?

    i want to have a nice system that sounds clear but delivers high levels of sound and decent bass(my car is pretty loud on the freeway and i want to drown the noise with music) and i want to keep it as simple as possible without sacrificing quality (i cant tune it up really high without the speakers sounding like crap)

    I'd recommend investing in some sound deadening equipment. It makes a huge difference in road noise. Just a suggestion.

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  8. Posted

    The one in the better box will get louder :)

    x2. The major factor on how loud a driver can preform is based on the installation :detail: . Both are quality speakers. Put them in there recommended home built correctly and they will both celebrate in loudness. :fing34:

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  9. Posted · Edited by crazytexan

    if i were to get 2 audioque 2200d amps and 2 audioque HDC3 12" subs(an amp per a sub) wired down to 1 ohms could the copper series handle it or would i have to buy the aluminum? this is for daily use!

    also on the audioque website it says 1000 watts rms 2000 watts peak for those subs. but also on there it says you can hook 1 2200d with one HDC3 sub. the amp puts out 2200 at 1 ohms so how would this not damage or blow the sub?

    If you are smart and are able to set your gains in an educated manner you will be able to run an amp per sub. A question though, what kind of electrical are you running, will you be able to run a continuous 3kW+? You will also need to be able to gain match the two amps. I'll let one of the trusted gurus comment further.

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  14. Posted

    I've never used aeroports but if my math serves me right an aero port that H2.5" x W2.5" x L17" and the box is H12" x W20" x D12" the port would run along the back of the box firing to a side I get running numbers of:

    Total air space = 1.19ft ^3

    Port Volume = 0.16ft^3

    Port Area = 11-15in^2

    Port Area = 6.35in^2

    Net Air Space for Chamber = .94ft^3

    Tuning Freq = 30.60 Hz

    This is using 3/4" mdf

    Someone correct if I am wrong, please.

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  16. Posted · Edited by crazytexan

    OK my trunk dimensions are 36" x 43" x 17". And I have a deal for a BT18 so I am not worried about a 15. So what box dimensions are suggestible?

    You should be worried about a 15 unless you are trying to build your own box in your trunk. Are those measurements clean? Or are there obstructions in the area (i.e. wheel wheels, anything to obscure the straight measurement)? With those measurements you have around 12-13 ft ^3. I'd recommend Eclipse, Alpine, or Pioneer head units but remember this is opinionated (Pioneer is nice but can be temper mental). Are you building this box? Amp is as well opinionated. At this forum you will more than likely be recommended a Sundown Audio amp, which is what I would recommend. SAZ-1500d or SAZ-2000d are very nice choices. However, since the woofer is a 1 ohm (if you still plan on that 18) you will need an amp that will produce its power @ 2 ohms, so Sundown may not be your choice. Depending on how experienced you are with tuning and setting amplifiers it could be either. What sort of electrical upgrades do you have planned for the car? Big 3? Secondary battery? etc. We need additional information before help can be provided.

    Edit: by BT18 I thought you meant BTL not BL. For a BL I would recommend a SAZ-1000d. A SAZ-2000d will put out 1000w @ 2 ohm which is what your looking for.

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  19. Posted

    I'll go ahead and tell you that JUST using a double baffle and bracing will leave with 6.5 cubes.... then you must subtract port volume which will drop you to almost 5 cubes NET after all displacements.

    If you are looking for the most cone area for what room you have, i would suggest 2 12s ported.

    Well, I have about 2-3 inches more in width I can work with, and another 3 inches in depth to adjust my numbers. Also, I don't "need" to stay below window line but it would be preferred.

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  20. Posted

    Well I am looking to take advantage of the amazing deal for a free enclosure with the purchase of a subwoofer. I have been looking at getting an Incriminator Audio Death Row 18" subwoofer to be housed in the back of my 2002 Ford Explorer XLT.

    Seeing the recommendations of a box is:

    # 18" DVC1 & DVC2 ohm

    # Sealed Not Recommended

    # Ported 5.0 cubes - 8.0 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz

    # Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz

    The current max dimensions in my rear of the SUV I have 16" in Height (looking to stay below window line) x 38" in Wide x 26 in" Deep.

    With these measurements it leaves me with an area that is 7.50 ft ^ 3 so I have a little wiggle room since recommended is 6.5 ft ^3 and I would like to tune to 32hz. I figured this will leave room for brace displacement in box? Not 100% I'm not the fabricator. :)

    I was interested in a design where the sub facing up and port back to the tailgate hatch. I was also looking to have the enclosure wrapped in charcoal colored carpet (AM8).

    I know the subwoofer purchased from you in $379+shipping then I'm looking at + shipping for the (large) box.

    I was wondering if I could get price quoted out-the-door shipped to 85755 box and subwoofer. I will be calling you this week as he sale ends this week to work out everything.

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  22. Posted

    IMO I'd use 0 gauge, then either trim it at the amp or put a distro block VERY close to amp to step it down to 4. If you decide to use a bigger amp later then you already have your wire and wouldnt have to buy more stuff saving you $ in the long run, plus your wire can never be too big, or @ least thats what she said muhahahaha. seriously tho when it comes to wire there is no such thing as over kill

    I knew that there is no overkill with wire but I wasn't thinking completely. Thank you on the reassurance and the mentioning of a bigger amp later on I totally didn't think about that :Doh: . Plus, that is very valid, wire it once so I don't have to do it again :wacky: . Thanks again for the quick response!

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  23. Posted

    Alright,

    I plan on running 1100w-1200w RMS to an 18" woofer so I am torn between all 0 Ga wiring or using a 4 Ga amplifier wiring kit. The 4 Ga kit I'm looking at it rated for 1400w but I think 0 Ga would be better. Also, the amplifier I plan on using only has 4 Ga terminals for power and ground - would it be safe to trim down the 0 Ga and put them in 4 Ga terminals if I were to use 0 Ga?

    Amp is: JBL GTO 1201.1II - 1114w RMS at 2 ohms

    Woofer is: IA DR 18" D1

    Thanks in advance!

    -John

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  25. Posted

    So you want to put 4 amps on that one sub? Not worth it. Total waste of power and money beyond only one on each coil.

    I think he means run 1 amp to each voice coil node so he wants to run 2 amps.... combined its 2400watts of power and btl's have been seen running much higher. I don't know if I would trust it but it is more than likely possible.

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