Frostedflakejake

The rounds I make vary from being only 10% cheaper up to about 50% cheaper depending on the round and how long the brass lives. I got into reloading for the savings. Lots of people get into it for precise ammo; but I mostly just shoot to have a good time. This lets me tailor my ammo making to save me money (mostly with cheaper powder). So most of the time I make rounds right at about 60% the price that they can be had online. Either way, I know the ammo i'm shooting. I've gotten boxes of .45's where the overall length of the round has varied half a centimeter; that's HUGE. And the ammo for the Swiss is hard to find which makes it a little more expensive than it probably should be, so reloading that is also quite nice. I did the math once... I think it came about to reloading 900 rounds of .45 saved me enough money to where I had broken even with buying all the equipment. It all depends on how much you shoot and what you shoot. If you are shooting less than 500 rounds a year I'd probably forget about it unless it intrigues you. There is something satisfying about the methodical process of forming rounds. Oh, and it's not something to get into if you aren't willing to be super critical either. If you are careless and don't want to spend the time setting things up properly you will get seriously hurt pretty quickly.

I like the fact that audio is all initial investment. It costs money everytime to have fun with guns. A problem I'm running into right now even with reloading

Not to generalize, but from what I saw kids had horrible parents. Just no discipline and complete enablers. It was disturbing. I actually got the 1911 due to my small hands! Most double-stack polymer guns leave my finger just grazing the trigger. The glass is nice by the way. I'm happy with the purchase

Keep it that way if you want a CPL in Michigan. They have zero tolerance for that shit. Watch out for kids like that out in Hartland... there seems to be a lot of them and it's a dangerous combo with the high percentage of firearm ownership out there.

Oooo big boy toys, my favorite! Springfield 1911 in .45, Chrome barrel, trijicon night sights, parkerized finished, cocaboala grips. Got a bunch of mags with it. Swiss M1911 long rifle; and i do mean long. Valdada 10x56 glass. Shoots 7.5x55 and a bunch of other generic stuff that we've all seen and doesn't need to be pictured: Winchester 30-30, M91-30, Enfield MKii, some old 12 gauge and my "winchester" .22

If i remember correctly, Sony Audacity has the ability to do what you are asking and it is extremely user friendly. And free!

Onkyo is often mentioned as a reputable affordable brand

That's nice. Do you have a question?

Just make sure you have good connections. All of them. How are you connecting to the terminals of the 2400?

No way I had one it was loud but hated the sound of it. Like the havoc, it was most likely a box issue and not a driver issue. Have you ever actually ran a SP4 on 1.5kW? Or are you just assuming that since it's rated at 3kW it should get 3kW of power? Because that's utter, and complete bullshit.

I really would just stick with the Havoc if it all possible. I wasn't aware new dcon's were coming....

That's so disgustingly generic. Back to your original question. Are you willing to wait for the DCON's to be back in stock? Otherwise you'll have to raise your budget obviously, try to find used woofers, or get smaller speakers to stay within your budget.

I've never used one and I've never damaged a woofer. I haven't been around for too long, but still. You absolutely do not need one. But you already got one so there is no reason to continue down that path. I guess if you're trying to decide what subwoofers to run I would look at goals, budget, and space allocation. You vaguely answered goals and referred to your space capacity so that just leaves budget.

Yes you do. But you're assuming way too much. Your speaker is not a perfect 1 ohm deviceYour amplifier has some sort of impact on that resistanceYour amplifier is most definitely not 100% efficient.And all this is besides the point. As others point out your settings on your amplifier and the signal it is receiving is what determines your output. It also takes power to make power. It's possible that your electrical system isn't up to the task to provide a proper amount of current for your amplifier to make it's rated/claimed power. To your original post, I ran two 15" dcons and absolutely adored them. Ported with aeroports like you were suggesting tuned to about 33hz. They are delectable woofers

I just needed one to power my second meter; that's all. I have the feeling my one meter isn't all that accurate at low AC voltages. The MiniDSP 2x4 unbalanced should be what I want, right? While you're around Sean, I would like to pry at your knowledge if you don't mind. This build is solely for home theater. I'm having a rough time with box design because I'm unsure of how important output below 20hz is. I can't seem to get a flat response in a realistic box size when I drop my tuning below 20hz. An example is shown below. Both plots have HPF applied to limit cone excursion to the safe range. Green plot is about 10cubes at 20hz and pink plot is 15cubes at 15hz. As shown, the output of the pink plot below ~18hz is significantly larger than the output in the same frequencies of the green plot. I'm trying to reason if this outweighs the fact that the green plot is so much flatter.

I am SO confused. Are your max dimensions 48"x48" with the third row seats in or out? What about that whole third dimension? I would scratch the BTL idea only because they aren't produced anymore and I think it would be difficult to find that many of them used with the same configurations. And since the math doesn't add up I'm guessing your budget is flexible?

I have a relatively rough looking Hifonics Falcon I could part with if you're interested

It was actually your posts that pointed me towards it. Thanks for the offer! That's awfully kind of you.

So the MiniDSP is cheaper than I thought... using their product selection guide I'm lookin at the MiniDSP 2x4 with the 2-Way advanced 21 software. I don't know if i should start a new thread or not for this; but I was looking for some help with my receiver. I have a Yamaha R-V503 that I got at GoodWill for $6. I currently only use it in stereo configuration. I'm just trying to figure out the voltage of their pre-outs so I can choose the appropriate input jumper for the MiniDSP. I should just be able to take a voltmeter in Vac to a wire connected to the subwoofer preout and then convert the answer to rms; right? I guess i'll go out and buy a 9v battery so I can try this method with my second DMM because I'm reading nothing and it definitely works.

That's a good point. It's a home theater build and I read elsewhere in the home theater section that I should try to tune in the low teens and that a SSF is absolutely necessary; and after looking at my cone excursion plot I can see why! The amp is a Bash 500w plate amp. They do not explicitly list the frequency range of their amp on the parts express website. I assumed that the nature of this device would imply a frequency range down into those levels.

Anyone know how I can high pass filter this at around 15hz? I already know about the MiniDSP; it's just a bit expensive considering I only plan on using it as a highpass. Looking for something a little more like a Reckhorn B-2, but I can't find anywhere online that will ship them to the states. And the Reckhorn even has more features than needed but it's still cheaper than a MiniDSP and little more user friendly. Advice?

made it out tonight to photograph my "city"!

Is moving mass mms? I calculated mms as necessary to calculate cms and got the same .2593 kg as the program

Alright well thanks to this page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiele/Small i calculated a cms of 0.163779mm/N and a BL of 17.0211 Tm Does that sound a little more reasonable? I triple checked my calculations

Alright then... Any advice on how to carry on? I suppose I'll e-mail JL and try to get a more thorough list of specifications. Thanks!