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Frostedflakejake

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Posts posted by Frostedflakejake

  10. Posted

    Well I decided against putting in a radio apparently if I do I lose my

    steering wheel controls and aux and iPod input. So does anyone know of a

    good line converter or adapter that would allow me to connect my amps

    with the factory radio

    You should be able to find a head unit with all those capabilites. Back when I was shopping five years ago I found a few that could connect to steering wheel controls.

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  12. Posted

    Haha, I just moved from flint man. I also lived in saginaw. I wouldn't dare build a large system in flint, hell no 

    yup. Help a buddy do a 15" Icon build who lives in Troy. Got stolen out of his car in a few months... what a shame :/

    Also a fellow michigander! I go to Michigan Tech, but bum off my family near Royal Oak when schools out.

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  15. Posted

    As far as I understand it, the only reason anyone would need more port area is to lessen the port velocity of their enclosure. As you already noted, there are general guidelines to follow, but these are very general. The misconception lies in the idea that there is a ratio between port velocity and box displacement that is universal; regardless of what goes into the box. The speakers used, power supplied, tuning of the box, and box dimensions all play a role. 

     

    Modeling software like WinISD can give at least give you an idea of what type of numbers to expect. 

    From what I've found searching on the web, you don't want to exceed 20m/s for port velocity. 

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  16. Posted

    Holy cow, it's been a month. So I finally started this today! My space is a little more limited than I would like and my tuning is a little higher than I would like, but I'm interested to see how it performs regardless. I won't be living in this home for too much longer anyways!

     

    Net volume will be around 13 cubes and tuning will about 16hz. 

     

    I tried to be proactive and get the local lumber supply to do one of my cuts for me. Boy was that a mistake! I can do a better job with my jigsaw than they did with their planar saw; and i'm not very skilled even. So that will unfortunately slow me down. 

     

    With two six inch round ports WinIsd gives me a maximum port velocity of 9 m/s which seems low to me, but I'm happy to oblige! A slot port would kill my net volume anyway. 

     

    Now just to figure out this MiniDSP stuff...

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  17. Posted

    If you're experiencing a voltage drop a capacitor will not fix your issue; at least not a practical amount of them. You would likely need 100's if not 1000's. This is just one of those things where if anyone has one or is telling you to get one they are either flat out wrong or just trying to get you to buy their product. 

     

    A larger/second battery MAY fix your issue. How everything is grounded and the general conductivity of your electrical system may also be a factor. 

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  18. Posted

    As for the bike advice I know 4 people who were hospitalized from dirt bike fuck ups. None who did it on street bikes.

     

    I know way more people who have died from street riding than dirt riding. 

     

    Dirt won't let you know how to ride street anymore than a street bike will make you an expert on a dirt track.

     

    The point of starting on the dirt is to learn the controls and feel of a motorcycle on friendlier terrain and a more forgiving machine. It also doesn't suck as much when you drop the bike numerous times because you're new. That way when you jump onto the street you have less to worry about in the form of stop/start and other basic maneuvers.

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  20. Posted · Edited by Frostedflakejake

    So with a quick calculation of all the necessary things needed to reload, it comes to ~$.40 per round. Does that sound right? This is not including the press and other things needed to get started.

    That sounds a little high.

    Looked up the price of bullets, instantly became jealous. But it makes sense seeing that there is less lead than a 30 cal.

    I'm getting about $15 for 100 bullets at cheaper than dirt, so there's $.15 per round. Good luck shopping around for this. I've found prices to be pretty fixed.

    1000 CCI 400 (small rifle) primers are $40 at cabelas so there's $.04 per round. You can try shopping around, but really at most you'll bring your price per round down a penny if you do so.

    And most of the common powders used to reload that round are about $25 per pound. It looks like 60 grain bullets are in the middle for .223 bullet weights. Within those it looks like ~23 grains is your average load. There are 7000 grains in a pound of powder so that's 304 bullets per pound or $0.08 per round.

    So without brass i'm at 28 cents per round. The most you should ever pay for used brass is 10 cents per cartridge. You should be able to reload most cases 5 times or more. So factor that in and your price for brass is really 2 cents per cartridge at most (assuming used brass). Some cases you'll be able to reload 20 times, other's you'll only be able to reload 2. It depends on the loads, your gun, the quality of the brass and how it's handled. Shop around for brass and you can bring that price down.

    Final cost per round: ~30 cents

    .223 rounds can be had for 50 cents a piece so you'll be reloading for %60 the cost of new rounds. I wasn't lying earlier when I said most of the rounds I make are %60 the price of pre-made rounds. As long as you aren't buying super expensive components and spend a few minutes shopping around you should be able to consistently see those savings.

    This is also assuming you get all this stuff locally and don't have to eat shipping/haz-mat fee's. Cabela's in Dundee is hit n'miss for primers and bullets. I always call them before I go since it's a bit of a trip. They have a horrid powder selection at that store; even when they have everything in stock.

    Hope that helps.

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  21. Posted

    DNR ranges would be your best bet. There's one in Waterford, but that's a heck of a drive just for some brass. Check their website for locations. 

     

    Private ranges are there to make money; good luck getting anything from them for free.  

     

    Either way, if you're serious about doing it you should know that finding primers has been spotty for ever. They are always in demand and if you buy them online you have to eat a $27.50 haz-mat shipping fee. I couldn't reload for 5 months when I ran out of my large-pistol primers because It took me that long to find some. 

     

    Start looking at presses and dye's and prices of powders, primers, bullets, and casings. It'll give you a good idea of what you're diving into. 

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  22. Posted

    Buying things in bulk always keeps the prices down. Buying 5lb containers of powder vs 1lb and primers in bricks of 5000 instead of 1000 usually saves 10-20%. I would imagine he is mostly talking about brass since the price for "once-fired brass" fluctuates enormously. The best thing to do would be to establish a relationship with a steady supplier of brass, or try to buy thousands at a discounted price.

     

    Armslist has some good deals every now and again, but in my experience if you need something soon, you're just going to have to bite the bullet and pay for it. If you have time to shop around you can find some good prices for brass.   

     

    You probably won't get brass from Kensington. I'm 90% sure they have a guy they give/sell to and have been doing so for years. Worth a call though. 

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  23. Posted · Edited by Frostedflakejake

    If you have a local gun range its an amazing place to get brass for free you just have to spend a little time a pick it up,

    I am amazed that you can find a range that doesn't sell its brass. They nearly all do

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  24. Posted · Edited by Frostedflakejake

    Is reloading that much cheaper to do?

    The rounds I make vary from being only 10% cheaper up to about 50% cheaper depending on the round and how long the brass lives. I got into reloading for the savings. Lots of people get into it for precise ammo; but I mostly just shoot to have a good time. This lets me tailor my ammo making to save me money (mostly with cheaper powder). So most of the time I make rounds right at about 60% the price that they can be had online. Either way, I know the ammo i'm shooting. I've gotten boxes of .45's where the overall length of the round has varied half a centimeter; that's HUGE. And the ammo for the Swiss is hard to find which makes it a little more expensive than it probably should be, so reloading that is also quite nice.

    I did the math once... I think it came about to reloading 900 rounds of .45 saved me enough money to where I had broken even with buying all the equipment.

    It all depends on how much you shoot and what you shoot. If you are shooting less than 500 rounds a year I'd probably forget about it unless it intrigues you. There is something satisfying about the methodical process of forming rounds. Oh, and it's not something to get into if you aren't willing to be super critical either. If you are careless and don't want to spend the time setting things up properly you will get seriously hurt pretty quickly.

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  25. Posted

    a hard choice between guns or audio

    I like the fact that audio is all initial investment. It costs money everytime to have fun with guns. A problem I'm running into right now even with reloading

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