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Frostedflakejake

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Posts posted by Frostedflakejake

  1. Posted

    Yea definitely. Most of my friends have been arrested multiple times and do whatever they want.

    Not to generalize, but from what I saw kids had horrible parents. Just no discipline and complete enablers. It was disturbing.

     

     I have rubber grips now l, helps my large palm grip it better.

    I actually got the 1911 due to my small hands! Most double-stack polymer guns leave my finger just grazing the trigger. 

     

    The glass is nice by the way. I'm happy with the purchase

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  2. Posted

     I told myself that i need to quit doing all the bad shit and really cut down on my drinking and weed use if I buy this gun. Im not spending all this money to have it taken away!! So far I'm doing really good. No problems and shouldn't be any. 

     

    Keep it that way if you want a CPL in Michigan. They have zero tolerance for that shit. 

    Watch out for kids like that out in Hartland... there seems to be a lot of them and it's a dangerous combo with the high percentage of firearm ownership out there. 

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  3. Posted

    Oooo big boy toys, my favorite!

    Springfield 1911 in .45, Chrome barrel, trijicon night sights, parkerized finished, cocaboala grips. Got a bunch of mags with it.

    Swiss M1911 long rifle; and i do mean long. Valdada 10x56 glass. Shoots 7.5x55 

     

    and a bunch of other generic stuff that we've all seen and doesn't need to be pictured: Winchester 30-30, M91-30, Enfield MKii, some old 12 gauge and my "winchester" .22

     

    IMG_5697_zps94931893.jpg

    IMG_5698_zps31fb96ec.jpg

    IMG_5699_zpsf573a116.jpg

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  8. Posted

    What about two Sundown SA 15s.

    No way I had one it was loud but hated the sound of it.

     

    Like the havoc, it was most likely a box issue and not a driver issue.

     

    Nevermind you only have a 1500 watt amp, and the sp4 18 is probably out of your budget 
    Have you ever actually ran a SP4 on 1.5kW? Or are you just assuming that since it's rated at 3kW it should get 3kW of power? 
    Because that's utter, and complete bullshit. 
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  10. Posted

    Track 5 on there cd is 40 hz constant at -10 db. Track 3 40@ -5 db. And track 7 is -15db.

    3 for sq

    5 middle

    7 spl 

     

    That's so disgustingly generic. 

     

    Back to your original question. Are you willing to wait for the DCON's to be back in stock? Otherwise you'll have to raise your budget obviously, try to find used woofers, or get smaller speakers to stay within your budget. 

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  11. Posted

    I think the dd-1 is a good tool for setting gains. Me and my friends yet to lose a sub. Knock on wood 

     

    I've never used one and I've never damaged a woofer. I haven't been around for too long, but still.

     

    You absolutely do not need one. But you already got one so there is no reason to continue down that path. 

     

    I guess if you're trying to decide what subwoofers to run I would look at goals, budget, and space allocation. You vaguely answered goals and referred to your space capacity so that just leaves budget. 

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  12. Posted

    What no you need to do over 1152 watts to pop a 80 amp fuse. 

     

    Yes you do. But you're assuming way too much. 

    • Your speaker is not a perfect 1 ohm device
    • Your amplifier has some sort of impact on that resistance
    • Your amplifier is most definitely not 100% efficient.

    And all this is besides the point. As others point out your settings on your amplifier and the signal it is receiving is what determines your output. It also takes power to make power. It's possible that your electrical system isn't up to the task to provide a proper amount of current for your amplifier to make it's rated/claimed power.

     

    To your original post, I ran two 15" dcons and absolutely adored them. Ported with aeroports like you were suggesting tuned to about 33hz. They are delectable woofers

    4

  13. Posted

    I don't follow the 9v battery thing above.

     

    I just needed one to power my second meter; that's all. I have the feeling my one meter isn't all that accurate at low AC voltages. 

     

    The MiniDSP 2x4 unbalanced should be what I want, right? 

     

    While you're around Sean, I would like to pry at your knowledge if you don't mind. This build is solely for home theater. I'm having a rough time with box design because I'm unsure of how important output below 20hz is. I can't seem to get a flat response in a realistic box size when I drop my tuning below 20hz. An example is shown below. Both plots have HPF applied to limit cone excursion to the safe range. Green plot is about 10cubes at 20hz and pink plot is 15cubes at 15hz. As shown, the output of the pink plot below ~18hz is significantly larger than the output in the same frequencies of the green plot. 

     

    I'm trying to reason if this outweighs the fact that the green plot is so much flatter. 

     

     

     

    winisdplots_zps027a618c.png

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  14. Posted · Edited by Frostedflakejake

    I am SO confused. 

     

    Are your max dimensions 48"x48" with the third row seats in or out? What about that whole third dimension?

     

    I would scratch the BTL idea only because they aren't produced anymore and I think it would be difficult to find that many of them used with the same configurations. 

     

    And since the math doesn't add up I'm guessing your budget is flexible?

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  17. Posted

    So the MiniDSP is cheaper than I thought... using their product selection guide I'm lookin at the MiniDSP 2x4 with the 2-Way advanced 21 software. 

     

    I don't know if i should start a new thread or not for this; but I was looking for some help with my receiver. I have a Yamaha R-V503 that I got at GoodWill for $6. I currently only use it in stereo configuration. I'm just trying to figure out the voltage of their pre-outs so I can choose the appropriate input jumper for the MiniDSP. I should just be able to take a voltmeter in Vac to a wire connected to the subwoofer preout and then convert the answer to rms; right? I guess i'll go out and buy a 9v battery so I can try this method with my second DMM because I'm reading nothing and it definitely works. 

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  18. Posted

    Why 15hz? Are you worried about content under 15hz? What are you using to power the woofer?

     

    That's a good point. It's a home theater build and I read elsewhere in the home theater section that I should try to tune in the low teens and that a SSF is absolutely necessary; and after looking at my cone excursion plot I can see why!

     

    The amp is a Bash 500w plate amp. They do not explicitly list the frequency range of their amp on the parts express website. I assumed that the nature of this device would imply a frequency range down into those levels.

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  19. Posted

    Anyone know how I can high pass filter this at around 15hz? I already know about the MiniDSP; it's just a bit expensive considering I only plan on using it as a highpass. Looking for something a little more like a Reckhorn B-2, but I can't find anywhere online that will ship them to the states. And the Reckhorn even has more features than needed but it's still cheaper than a MiniDSP and little more user friendly.

     

    Advice?

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  23. Posted

    They are way wrong.  The BL is obvious.  The Cms is how much force it takes to move the cone.  The Cms show would be a really really stiff subwoofer

     

    Alright then... Any advice on how to carry on? I suppose I'll e-mail JL and try to get a more thorough list of specifications. 

     

    Thanks! :)

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  24. Posted

    I'd relook at the specs.  BL of .5?  And a Cms of .16mm/N ?

     

    Those got calculated by WinIsd once I entered in no and SPL specs.

    As long as SPL is the same thing as what JL calls efficiency, then all the values in green are straight from JL's website. The blue ones WinIsd all calculated 

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