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and try to find out each shop's reputation first before deciding on one. They may be cheap but there's a reason why, sometimes. lol.

if you do in fact decide to go to a shop, go to as many as you can within reasonable driving distance. some shops charge pretty outrageous prices and will try to bullshit talk you into buying things you dont need or never intended on buying. Lookout for that.

You need to just go buy "The Loud Speaker Design Cookbook" by Vance Dickason

x3. Who cares if the 3000d puts out 3418 watts or 3397 or whatever the individual case may be. They're all going to perform basically the same as the testing Jacob did in his vehicle with those amps. Plus it's a useless number anyways, since it's taken at a specific voltage with a specific load, and 99% of the time in your vehicle you will be at neither that specific voltage or load.

X2 I wouldn't bother bench testing all of them either.. Save the money and invest it in something more worthwhile..

They must have two fuses. You MUST have that fuse right next to the battery, as that fuse protects your power wire. If there is a short somewhere along the length of the power wire, that fuse will blow before the short starts your car on fire. But the fuse must obviously be before the short in order to do any good. You use fuses near the amplifiers if you either A) use a distribution block and decrease wire sizes going to each amplifier (smaller wire requires smaller fusing), or B) the amplifier does not have internal fusing. Many big amps, like 2000+ watts, will require external fusing.

I really don't plan to bench test each and every amp -- that is a bit of a gimmick to me. It wouldn't make sense for me to hire someone to stand there all day and do that when I could take the same money and make products better

Here. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/ebr

I wasn't sure about those, but I was told they were accurate so I included them. Are they wrong? I think I see They are wrong. Quad 4 : 1, 4 or 16 ohms. Quad 2 : 0.5, 2 or 8 ohms Quad 1 : 0.25, 1 or 4 ohms. Yeah, just referring to how it's nice to see a topic about impedance and not impedance rise. It's actually a reference for people that are too lazy do do some math on their own. The formulas for figuring out the final resistance are out there, these are just particular cases.

i would try building another box in the hatch area, before u go buying more subs..but it really depends on how much output ur looking for...if u looking for mid 140's im guessing the 12 isnt gonna do it. but if ur just looking for something that sounds good and still has a good deal of thump, then stick with the 12 and build another box.