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I have seen linked amplifiers, when connected both 1ohm by 1ohm make 2ohm. But is it possible to connect it parallel so both make 1x1=0.5ohm load at the end? Thanks.

Smaller than the Deuce (replacing that AND gladius) Welcome to your new home.....here...meet your friends Powered up it looks sweet. Haven't looked in the dark yet but I suspect these LEDs are as bright as they say. In case anyone is wondering what the sundowns are for.... TC 4000 LMS 12's (Custom re-cone by PSi) These things beat out at 15-30hz....need to re-build the box next year. Trunk is a little dusty. The guy at the body shop got a bit of dust in there while he worked and I haven't had a day to pull apart and vaccuum.

I never intend to be rude to anyone. As for the time it take for recones, Production comes before warranty in the line up most of the time. As for it being monthes I HIGHLY doubt that. Store owner like to through me under the bus on that one 3-4 weeks is the average in cluding shipping times.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire. It doesnt say anything about a fuse near the amp in that paragraph because you just answered it yourself. If the amp already has an internal fuse then you dont need it. Its that simple. And who gives a shit about d-blocks? If you are going down in wire size from a d-block, you should use a smaller fuse. That is very simple as well. You proved nothing.

< I ordered the hoodie as seen in the picture and a sticker. Service was outstanding as the package arrived to my door in less than 4 days even with a holiday in there. The hoodie is pretty sweet and the wife has not seen the sticker yet, but she will be suprised Aaron and Mark are great guys to deal with, I wish more companies would follow their CS practices!!

I am so happy with the products and services SSA offers that I will never order from another company again.

Thanks for all the input guys, i think i might go with 4.5ft.^3 tuned 35 with sub facing up and the port forward.

Bump.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire.