Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/15/2009 in Posts

  1. Use the expanding foam to fill in all the hollow areas. Let it seep out naturrally through the holes and cracks. Once dry trim off excess foam. Then put your dynamtt over the entire trunk lid. That should do it.
  2. ok so i drive a 76' caprice with 2 treo 15's and my trunk lid is 2 seperate layers ....over the years the two layers dont stick together anymore which causes it to rattle ,sometimes louder than the bass and was just wondering if anyone could give me tips to fix this problem without weighing the lid down where it wont stay open on its own. my first thought was the canned foam stuff that expands but thats alot to fill also my cousin works for a glass company and he gaqve me a cpl rolls of that gooey black shit that seals windshields i just cant it very far into the lid. anyone got better ideas?
  3. 1 point
    OMG, IM SORRY I THINK THE UNIT SUCKS o.k. On this unit you can't turn off the bass center frequency you must use it ( 60hz to 180hz) no flat. The bass focus delay affects the subwooter timing.Pause button takes 10 seconds maybe more before music play back. You never just get answers here. If you would have said this in your first post it would have been 1,000 times more helpful. Just using a blanket statement like "better SPL deck" tells us nothing. If it has features you don't like, obviously we'd need to know those before suggesting something else.
  4. No problem. It really won't be very difficult. I'm no expert on deadener, but I'll try to explain to the best of my abilities. Hopefully Don will chime in aswell as some point. First, you said; "all sound deadener really does is add mass" That in-and-of itself demonstrates that you don't understand how constrained layer dampers (CLD) function. There is a reason they call them constrained layer dampers and not just "mass panels". Constrained layer dampers function due to the interaction of the viscoelastic layer and the contraining layer. The quality and thickness of both the viscoelastic layer and the constraining layer will determine how well the product performs. It does also add mass to the panel that lowers the panels resonance, but that certainly is not "all it really does" as you incorrectly stated. For a brief overview of how CLD works, see HERE To my understanding, because of how constrained layer dampers function each additional layer is increasingly less effective than the layer adhered directly to the host panel. Which means for panel damping it is best to use a single layer of the best damper you can find than multiple layers of inferior deadeners (which are inferior in their deadening properties to begin with). The additional layers may decrease noise transmission, but at that point you are wasting time and money for a benefit that can be had through cheaper and more effective means (MLV, etc). I believe there are also other issues such as open vs. closed termination, but I'm not well versed so I'll simply mention it here incase you decide to research further on your own. Lastly, your "the more you use the better" statement has already been dismantled over the years by people like John (FoxPro5) and Don (Rudy/Rudeboy). Effectively and adequately reducing vibration and resonance in a panel generally does not require 100% coverage and multiple layers of CLD. There is a point of diminishing returns where you are spending time and money on an expensive product for little to no additional damping benefits. Again, you may see some decrease in noise transmission by covering everything and using multiple layers of CLD to do it, but then you are using the wrong product for the job and better results could be achieved more cost effectively by using proper barrier materials. That statement in and of itself doesn't make any sense. How can mass have nothing to do with a barrier but density does, when density is simply mass per unit volume? I would have to disagree that you are more knowledgeable about sound waves and deadening than M5 (it was his statement, not mine). See above. Already covered the inaccuracy contained in these types of statement. Ensolite is actually extremely poor at absorption, as are most closed cell foams. It diffuses better than it absorbs, and a single layer of typical thickness (1/8 - 1/4") is not thick enough to absorb a majority of the frequency range. Open cell foam is what you need if you want to absorb sound, and it's range of absorption frequencies will be related to it's thickness and a few other factors. If you want to absorb sound, Ensolite or any other CCF is not the right tool for the job. As a matter of fact, if you look on the SDS website they sell CCF as a decoupler, not as a sound absorption product as it's simply not effective for that use. It's hilarious that you think you understand sound deadening, frankly. I would suggest you spend some time on the various forums searching out posts by the above mentioned users, as they have shared a wealth of information on deadening and noise control over the years. None of which coincides with your current notion of "correct sound deadening".
  5. you can get some deadener. theres a couple different companies that sell it. it should fix your problem.
  6. Sound Quality is awfully subjective, biased so heavily by personal opinion from one person to the next, quality of installation, attention to detail, etc.... the best thing to do is start by giving your goals for the system, budget, etc.....
  7. Bear in mind that though they are similar products, Ant (SecondSkin) and Don (SDS) have different deadening philosophies. Don @ SDS is the individual who promotes the idea of 25% coverage, and as a result developed the CLD tiles to make it easier and more cost effective to achieve that goal. Ant claims he had developed the SPL tiles a year or two ago, yet interestingly didn't release them until after SDS started marketing their CLD tiles. I would highly recommend the CLD Tiles from SDS. Don is amazingly helpful and always provides useful information aimed at helping people achieve their goals rather than selling them more product. EDIT: I would like to point out that when I posted this response, I had not realized this thread was moved from the General forum to the SecondSkin subforum. Infact I think it was moved while I was responding.
  8. sorry here is the correct link http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld
  9. Nah.... I'd say it just took your brain wahile to adjust..... it just takes while to get used to a drastic change.... The subwoofer is dumb.... it doesn't know anything and will play whatever frequency at whatever amplitude the amplifier gives it... while it is possible the suspension wasn't completely broken in when in the first box is plausible I'd still most likely say it just took you a little while to get used to the changes in the sound....
  10. It means you will have low efficiency. Nothing else is related to Hoffman's the rest is just basic enclosure building 101. Yes low efficiency makes you need more power, but no matter what you still need a driver that is appropriate for the enclosure you choose.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.