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well, to be honest, i just got finished looking through some of the build logs on here. and i can honestly say that, im a little disappointed in my build. this is really my first time doing everything w/o the help of my dad. hes not really around anymore, so i decided to try and tackle this by myself. ive caught alot of crap about how the box looks w/ fiberglass. i thought it was air bubbles at first to. but i didnt let the fleece harden completely, so it started sagging when the glass was kicking off. so its 100% air void free. i even sanded some down to make sure. i have 2 memphis mojo 10s going in it. i was going to run soundstream tarantula trx1500ds for it, but i decided to go with the 1000d and wire each sub to 1ohm. ill be getting a 1000 watts to each sub. anyway, enough rambling on, heres the pictures. be easy on me now haha. first time trying myself. box is still not completely bondo'ed. a while back in truck 1st time glassing in truck

Car - 2000 Mustang Amp - Audiopipe AP1500D sub - 10" Mach5 iXL box - .9 cubes net tuned to 34hz I was going to try for a T-line but theres no room to get a bigger size box really into the trunk and the girlfriend wanted a fairly small sized box so yeah. I just cut out the speaker hole. The port still needs to be glued in. more to come.

what you need to do is get a battery charger so your alts dont have to recharge all your batteries. it sounds like thats what happened to your other one. see your alt had to charge all the batteries when playing your system. which led to the alt failing.

The educated people deal with facts, not speculation. Hanapi, your entire description is purely based upon speculation information and this is why you confuse yourself on how your electrical system is being ran. So, let me quit doin these box designs and stop workin on my comp car so i can break it down. www.bcae1.com and www.the12volt.com is where u learn the basics. SSA is where you NEED to be (Here) to use the information correctly. This is how it is- You have 2 amps capable of pulling up to 500A but realistically only pulling an average of about 200A. A 250A alternator should handle this fine.. in a sense. 20-60A of power is dedicated to running the vehicle the entire time. Also, you can only get maximum rated power out of the alternator once you reach the proper rpm which is usually 1,800-2,500rpm. Because you had the original pulley put back on, if it's a larger one, the ratio from engine to alternator has gotten smaller so that means the engine rpm will need to be even higher to reach max output of your alternator! So imagine 3,000rpm+ just to run your audio system on stock pulley? the reason you won't see any dimming is because when the alt isn't putting out enough current for the demand, you have a LARGE battery bank in the back that is keeping up with it. The problem lies here- How long do u keep it cranked? If you keep it cranked for long durations at a time, 10min minimum constantly... the alternator is probably trying to run the audio system ANd charge batts at the same time which is just too much current to do that. You need to get a DMM and measure your voltage at the rear battery bank at idle and at 2,000rpm while blasting it and see how low your voltage goes for a duration of a few seconds to a few minutes! This will confirm my theory if your voltage is dropping to 13.0v or lower, you have a problem... You can't test it now because your alt is damaged but likely scenario. Solution- if you blast it for prolonged periods.. these alts, all h.o. alts are nto designed for maximum current output for prolonged periods of time. This is why you should never try and charge a dead battery with one... Why you shouldnt try to pull more current than what it's designed for for long periods of time. Why you shouldnt use a large quantity of batteries and let them discharge just a little on a high powered system with just a single alternator without charging the bank up with a battery charger. Why you need to a voltmeter or safety cutoff switches for low voltage situations(this doesnt mean dimming, this means dipping into battery's reserve capacity). The #1 reason why alts fail or high output alts fail is because they burn up.. workin them too hard. A true high output alternator can't fit in our cars because they are too large. these high output alts that are manufactured are intended for short period high current demands so they can keep cool. A true high output case is about 8 times the size of your alt case. Also, you have 2 different battery technologies mixed together in your vehicle. IT's not wise to leave them like that over time when the vehicle isn't running as they can fight with each other and drain each other. What does this do? Makes them want a charge, a longer charge immediately... thsi could also contribute to the alt being maxed out trying to charge batts even with the stereo off. Too many maybes but lots of possibilities.

yea maybe if you didnt make such a fuckin stupid opening post you wouldve gotten some help by now but instead you did. and sounded like quite the jackass and you just did once again point proven. and i gaurantee everybody else will approve. "The day you can get to two FI BTL's fully loaded you let me know....LMAO...what a peon....lol" how old are you? really. i'm 17 and i'm probably 3 times as mature as you and already probably know more about audio in comparison as you. so therefore. you're a "poen" whatever that might be. but keep on bumpin your two fully loaded btls with your mega awesome hifonics amps that put out 24,000 watts. but oh wait you can't. you fried your alternator because you're most likely too uneducated to instal it right. it's called RESEARCH. goodbye.

Play nice ladies. Get the one that has the most AH, fits your car, and costs less. probably Deka, but check it out.

It's Not A Good Idea To Use Seperate Amps On Each Coil, Much Less Two Different Ones. And 5 Cubes Is Not Enough For A 18" BTL, Unless You're Running Around 6kw To One, Lol. Edit: I'd Reccommend Getting A D2 15" And Getting A SAZ-2000D. I Would Say A 3500D, But I Don't Know If You Have The Budget For The Amp And The Amount Of Electrical Beef You Would Need, Much Less The Experience To Run That Amount Of Power To One.

Well I mean, What kind of alt would like to charge 2 3800's daily? Especially when they are not being drained much. And to the OP, your battery has NOTHING to do with watts. Batteries deal with amps. Do some research and maybe you could answer you own question as to why the alt fried. And idk where you got all this math from? Makes no real sense at all.

for Denim! Katy

I've ordered a few things through SSA and awaiting the new Sundown 1200d. Everything i've ordered was shipped fairly quick for going all the way across the U.S. Customer service is AWESOME. I always got a response with hardly a delay. You guys have great gear for a great price. I'm throwing out recomendations like crazy. I wish there was a SSA store here in town. I'd be there almost on a daily basis. I'll say it again; great job, keep it up.

You tried to eat it? lmao sorry incredible!!! i actually laughed at this for about 3 hours...1 hour to in my room, tearing up from laughter, and the other 2 hours quietly to myself.

here is new video, lol- This guy hates my car because he thinks i'm crazy stupid for how loud it is... He's funny though, he didn't wanna be in there at all at first but then when we talked him into it... he had to keep his ears covered.... Wimp, lol

I know this might sound stupid but what the hell kinda car are we looking at here? I purposely drive 5 mph over the limit because its perfect. Drive right by highway patrol all the time and never get pulled over.

cannot wait for this either. I really like the flat black look. I think everyone should have a radar detector. It makes a lot of people better drivers.

Cant wait to see the pics for this, I never understood why people with fast ass cars want radar detectors. Everybody knows you bought the car to go fast every now and then and if you have the money to buy it then you have the money to spend on speeding tickets. Just my .02, I wouldnt have a radar detector in any car I owned (if I get caught thats my fault should of been more observant, thats my slogan in life). What all stereo upgrades is he doing, or is just switching from stock head unit to after market head unit?

I dont think that battery will do on that system at all, I would suggest you doing the Mazda right and getting all you need for the big build in the future and start on making that happen. But to each its own, instead of wasteing your money on stuff that will be upgraded soon you minus well just buy everything slowly but surely. Then you can start on putting the build log together slowly instead of half-assing it till you do it how you want in the future.

It is very lengthy to read, please make it brief.

From what Ive read (which isnt much) on T-Lines is that they are sort of one note wonders and youll need some sort of equalizer to make it sound right.

i always try and run a minimum of twice the rated power to all my subs but u gotta make sure that u don't reach the thermal or mechanical threshold while doing so. More power requires smaller boxes and less to no clipping.

im not sure if im right but i dont think u can have 2 different types of amps on 1 sub can u?

The difference between a 12" and two 10's is 113 vs. 157 = 44 square inches, where 50.25 square inches is an 8" speaker, it's nearly unnoticable. I'd rather buy a 12" BTL on 2300-2500W rather than 2 10's with 1000W each. The BTL has better efficiency, it should do more with it's power and might equal out, so go the cheaper route. Eventually you'll just want another 12" BTL and after dropping on a 12" and another 2000W you'll be wondering if the 5dB was worth $1000. A 15" has 176 square inches, it would be cheaper/louder to get a 15" BTL and stick it in 3.5 cubes (the 10's would probably be 3 cubes so half a cube isn't much).

really, 5dBs? Thats pretty naive to think that. OP, Have a good port area. That will help a lot with getting louder. With the same power and other same constants, the higher cone area setup will be louder. Really, getting louder with whatever will depend on testing. That is the biggest part of getting loud.

are you referring to the Hyperdynamics meter from makeitlouder? They read real close to a termlab. Mine was reading right along with a tlab until i reached 150 then then it started reading higher than a tlab. The accuracy fo the meter compared to another is irrelovant, it just needs to be able to meter the levels of pressure you will be using it for and yes, that meter can just fine. You will need a meter that can read millivolts to get an accurate reading.

This is how I got my numbers. Two 2600 RMS amps = RMS/ 0.707 = Peak in this case 2600/0.707 = 3,677 watts x 2= 7,355 total watts peak. Sorry not 10400. the 28000 watts is what the batteries are supposed to have together. two kinetik 3800 watts = 7600 watts plus the two 850 amp ford batteries is 850 x 12v =10200 x 2 =20400 watts. total 28000 watts. I just want to know if I got a bad alt or if there is something else that I am doing wrong. I have no problem with a bad Alt...it happens...most impoprtant is to know what happened. thanks and have a good weekend, JR

Howdy, I need some help here. I have two FI 15 BTL subs. Double voice coil,heat ring,etc,etc all options on the sub and built for daily playing. I have two brutus 2600's run by a controller. the amps or subs are not wired together. I also have installed besides the two 850 cranking amp ford battereis, two Kinetik 3800 watt batteries. The altrnator is (was) a 250Amp altenator built by Excessive amperage. After a week to 10 days the alternator gave out. I mean fried. I never ran the system at full power because I am still breaking in the subs. What could have caused the alternator to fry?? or was it just a bad alternator?? Altogether the system at full power is +/- 10400 watts. If I add my batteries together I get 28000 watts so I have more then double what would actually be needed. Anyone with a big system have any advise??? Many thankis appreciate it. JR

What I meant was that the subs are not connected together. They run of their own amps. I have the Brutus 2600 watts Rms amps. 2 brutus 2600Rms amps run off of the batteries. The way I got to the total watts is simple. I have two Kinetiks 3800 watts as stated on their website. The ford has two 850 amp batteries. 850x12v =10200 watts x 2 =20400 + the two kinetics =28000. as far as I know I x V = watts. These is what the batteries supposedly hold all together. So why all these questions about equipment instead of a helpful answer. Thanks.

You know what. I have not seen an answer that is any help at all. Lots of people here wondering if this or if that with only the lamest remarks I have seen in a long time. Even the most simple laws of electronics are not known here. My God, I did not have dead batteries or any other problem. The alt just quit. thought I could find some intelligent advise here instead of these stupid observations I already know. I thank you all for all your help, wish you all a good weekend but I'm going to find a forum with some more educated people...lmao want to mail me directly with some other dumb ass or stupid remarks, please do so at [email protected]

Haha this is hilarious, we have no intelligence at all but you think your system puts out 10,400 or 28,800 watts. Thanks for the laugh of the year, that took the cake for the funniest shit I have heard all year long. Well good luck buddy and have fun, I doubt anybody is going to email you either. Im sorry that we ask questions to understand what could be the problem instead of jumping to conclusions like other people would and make assumptions. If you were smart you would contact the company that made the amp and talk to them about it since it failed so early. aww you beat me lol but: a round of applause to jay exactly!!!!!! more interested in trying to be somebody instead of a helpful answer. Read the rest of the posts where I corrected that you moron. I guess you had someone install your system cause experience or knowledge you seem to miss. The day you can get to two FI BTL's fully loaded you let me know....LMAO...what a peon....lol Man...I'll be showing people these posts...hahahahaha LMAO...you are so right...Thanks for the laugh....