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I wouldn't recommend doing this based upon variables of how each amp is built. Each is going to produce a different output voltage at the same frequency and ohm load amp to amp. Just the way they're built. There's no way to compensate that as it'll change at the next frequency, and the next and the next and the next.

Exactly what high bass frequencies are you lacking? I don't understand how you can say the current two 12s ported box is too big, yet plan on buying another two 12s in ported boxes. If you know you aren't getting full power out of the amp, then you aren't sending the subs almost twice their RMS. You cannot run 2200 watts RMS on a 105 amp stock alternator.

Cold won't burn voice coils. Too much power does. If the voice coil is messed up, as it seems to be, that is just from putting too much power to it. Even if it's the tinsel leads messed up, after 6 months that's no longer a manufacturer defect, either. Overpowering a sub will eventually kill it, sometimes it's just a little-by-little process.

Also do you think a cap or extra battery is called for ? How many farads or how big of a battery? My deck only has one subwoofer output , so should i get a line driver. im going to rewire my subs also at 2 ohms what size wire is best ? Thanks for all the help No cap, what is your vehicle and what is your alternator's output in amps? I would say do the Big 3 Wiring, get a 100AH battery and a voltmeter to watch your voltage and you should be ok. When it comes to speaker wire then anywhere from 10 gauge to 14 gauge would be fine on your subs but some do 8 gauge and that is overkill to me unless you got some powerful subs. Whats the big three? Is it the battery ,alternator,thing. Im not sure how to do it but i can do some looking around on the web. Its a olds mini van the batterys volts are 15 at the amp. whats a 100h battery. thanks when the amps draw power from the cars electrical, batteries and alt, the voltage drops. to monitor the voltage install a voltage meter. this is important because low voltage will FRY!!! your amps. 100ah batter is just a ratting on the battery. so what u need to do are: (this list is what jaycee said and his recommendation, im just simplifying it into a list. to jay cee if this is incorrect let us know) big three voltmeter check battery rating -if ratting is 100ah keep it -if rating is below 100ah you may want to replace it or add a 2nd batt in the trunk.

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

I am from Phoenix and also do alot of work for SSA if you need help with your install pm me and we can talk about it further.

Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will eat for the rest of his life. Thank you for breaking it down.

This is how you do it for any isntall- Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN. So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc... Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also. You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe. You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc... This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case. For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time. Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.