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Hey guys. I'm trying to piece together a 3-way active front stage in a friend's car and I need some help in selecting speakers for this application. The car is an '06 VW Passat if that is of help more than pictures of the A-pillars. Planned locations are A-pillars for midranges and tweeters and doors for midbass. Processing is going to be done by a car pc, all software, no limitations there. Power is going to be plenty, 100w@4 ohms for each midrange and each tweeter and 200w@8ohms for midbass. Odds are that the actual install is going to be done by me so atleast the doors will get a good treatment. The main goal for the install is to build a very good sounding front stage with high output ability. Budget will be around $600 for speakers only. Some pics of the A-pillars and a 4inch midrange. So far I've narrowed down 3 midbasses, 8's do fit, mounting depth for these isn't a problem : Creative Sound - Product Details Peerless SLS 830667, 8" Paper Cone Woofer from Madisound Hi-Vi D8.8+ 9" Woofer NLA from Madisound A 10 is too much for car doors over here so it's out of the question. For midrange I think a 4 inch would be better considering that they should provide highish output. But a 3 inch would make things easier on the installation part. Would preffer something to play as much of the spectrum as possible. One option I was pondering because of the shallow mounting depth and grill. Parts-Express.com:

Dakar Rally 2010 - The Big Picture - Boston.com Enjoy

I ordered my sub woofer on the 30th of Dec. and i got an email saying i would be getting my sub on the 7th. But Nothing at all yet. This SUCKS !!

Indubitably.

Don't worry about it. It's stupid, just like the rest of this thread.

Didn't even know there was such a thing

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt

That's a great mid. The Scan 12m is my favorite 4", but it breaks the bank. In the 3's I'd add the Fountek FR88 & Fostex FF85k.

x2. This leads me to my suggestion for a mid: Tang band 1337 This was given a great review on the site. I have the w4-1720 and like it in the 300-2000hz range. I haven't had experience with the midbass drivers you listed, but the one I list is the Hertz High energy 8". I love that one. I've heard it in different cars and it sounds great.

Yes to both questions. Your truck battery is a 12 volt, it is charged at 14.4 volts.

Only way to really tell is to do a blind A/B test, otherwise Pyschoacoustics will dominate. You can tell between two extremes in compression of music but its typically 92kbs compared to 320kbs is a huge difference, but like M5 said without an a/b test you won't be able to tell either way. Exactly and you won't tell the difference between 320 and flac

Dcons are great sounding subs... I love them and would recomend them, I have used them in installs before and they are all around great subs.

1 dcon on about 400 watts in a good ported box gets pretty loud while still retaining a pretty good sound. Sub was even in the trunk.

They are good sounding affordable drivers that get very loud in a ported enclosure. Plan on using them ported, would not recommend them sealed. 1kw on a trio should be sufficient. I had ~500w on the 12" Dcon I played with, and that single 12" output way more bass than I'd ever need.

The amplifier is not the most important aspect. Select the amplifier last. Make a subwoofer selection first, then chose an amp to match the subwoofers you've selected. Purchasing an amplifier first will limit the subwoofers you can chose......this is not a smart way to go about things. You're doing things ass-backwards.

Load test the battery. If you can't do this yourself, most maintenance garages should be able to do it for you.

ya am startin all over on that site it say saz 2000d not availiable and yes i would get amp 1st an then go from their cause i think the amp is the most inportant right an it can be use once if it good

ok so shame on me .....i can understand the fi part but beatle ...come on even if ur not sure then dont assume btl is beatle. or do we just assume all letters that are abreviated stand for something they look like. for example ABC ...does mean abbick and i dont assume that jay-cee stands for prick with rich white guy tea sippin with pinky finger up humor. btw im white b4 that gets ugly. if u dont like the thread keep ur comments to ur self..or is it u just like to see ur name on the helpful list. u got a cocky im better answer on almost every thread u answer on. i hope every 1 can read this without takin it the wrong way

Glad to see you got it working, yeah those cheap amps and headunits will be the cause most of the time.

Note to all readers: This is how you make a topic. THIS will get you help. I don't have much experience with driver selection, but I did go through it with Sean last year. (My build will start this spring) I decided to go with a Peerless SLS 8" for the midbass. Have you thought about using a full range speaker for your midrange? Are large format tweeters out of the question?

I have to disagree here. A better term would be application, but there are several manufacturers who know their drivers very well and know what enclosures work with what application. JL comes to mind, as well as MTX to name a couple.

They do make the FI SSD available to be used in a sealed application you just have to order the copper coils (make sure you read FI Technical tab on there site or on this forum). Nobody can tell you which would be louder it is all install depended, the best way to tell is buy both and test then give us a review. There is no such thing as which sub will handle the AQ the best? Both would be good setups so pick which one is in your budget, I personally would go with the SA-12"s (I was gonna get two of them myself).

Also check out the 15" FI Car Audio SSD for a sealed application or 12" FI Car Audio SSD for a ported application.

That would be the cheapest and smartest thing to do instead of replacing a tweeter just because of its looks that can be altered.

If you can find a 15" and want it sealed then go for it, or get a 12" ported in my opinion. Just make sure it fits within your budget range and the enclosure recommendation fits your available space. Any sub on this website or ficaraudio.com will suffice.

Yes it would matter unless the you can find tweeters with the same specs as they one you have now, if that was the case there wouldnt be thousands of crossovers out there if one worked on all the tweeters in the market.

does the tracking say "in transit" or "billing information recieved" if it says in transit then you are in business in transit means it's probably still being built or on the way to UPS. **just my guess's here.

Fi

You will never find a tweeter that will take 300w and are going to have to pad the shit out of it to match a single 6.5 driver. Considering your goals you can use the cheapest capacitors you can find and you won't hear the difference, in particular if the amount of design time you are going to put in is based on the calculator thingee you found. Same with inductors and whatever else. Easy to put this way, you can't even buy anything as cheap as the junk that come in component sets. Define "music heard" as this is foreign to me. How can they tell you they can't hear it? ie what level below the bass is acceptable and what level of bass are you trying to achieve. Stupid parameters for a competition btw.

You need to worry WAY more about the layout and design and WAY less about the components. The cause of an issue in your sound will be unrelated to any of the above. Until you really know what you are doing the Dayton caps are more than adequate for your needs. Instead of creating a series of non-sense threads, please instead consider making a thread discussing what you are trying to accomplish and specific questions towards that. This won't go anywhere good.

There has been nothing said by sadistic_customs that I have ever thought to be logical or informative. Edead and FatMat deadening is

You really don't want any vibration damper for a pure SPL car. Vibration dampers eat energy. If you only care about numbers on a meter, find a better way to reinforce the panels to prevent energy loss to panel motion and deformation.

FatMat and ... well we all know who.

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt Company lying.....another great reason not to support FatMat

From Fatmat's website; That would indicate to me they are admitting the Fatmat deadener has nothing to do with butyl, as they are explicitly stating Mega Mat is their first butyl product.

I would start by checking the connections at the speaker to make sure the wire/etc isn't touching the door or basket. And sorry, but you're not going to get any sympathy from me. I've not had a radio in my car since May!

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product.

Not audible, but why run a piece of mediocre electronics when a better one is the other option?

That "manufacturing defect" could make it not so worthwhile to install. I'd sell it and buy something from SDS.

I have a pair of Trio8's up in my closet.....haven't had a chance to play with them yet, but most people state they sound extremely similar with the SLS8's but with better high frequency extension. So which midbass to go with IMO depends on how high you need them to play. If you were able to cut them off around 250hz or so, the SLS8's would be cheaper. If you need them to extend higher, probably would be best to look at the Trio8's. The SB Acoustic 8's had also caught my eye, all of their drivers seem to measure pretty good. Vifa's new NE225W also looks intriguing, but I don't believe they've hit the streets yet For midrange, there's so many options it's hard to know where to even begin. It really depends on what range you want them to cover, IMO. Again the SB Acoustics 4" looks intriguing as their drivers all seem well engineered. Scanspeak just recently came out with the Discovery line which includes an affordably priced 4" midrange. Ofcourse the old standby's in smaller formats like the Vifa TG9. Zaph gave a glowing review of the Fountek FR88-EX. Have fun taming those reflections

Changing the driver out is NOT the way to do that. Paint it, color it, customize it but don't change it.

Several reasons. Many times they can be covered in gook which keeps from getting a solid connection. Some seatbelt bolts and seat bolts, while securely attached to the vehicle mechanically, don't have a great "electrical" connection to the rest of the vehicle. And depending upon how someone connects their terminal to the bolt, there may be very little contact area (if they install the terminal above carpet or padding, for example). The short of it is, the quality of the connection can be hit or miss....so why take the chance? Create your own ground somewhere that you know will be a solid connection and bypass the entire possibility of having an issue. You might not notice an issue (alt whine, etc) but that doesn't necessarily mean you have great ground.

I know you know better, just wanted to make sure that others reading the thread realized.

Just as a point of clarification, mass isn't that important in damping. Of course it is important as an acoustic barrier, but CLD mat is generically speaking a poor way of adding mass. MLV would be better for that. Nothing wrong with the 2ndskin products for their purpose they are fine but mass won't tell the story for damping. Obviously mass could hint at a thicker butyl layer or aluminum layer which will improve performance. It is really amazing what a few squares of CLD and a full layer of MLV will do to a car. If you think it is quiet now, you'd LOVE it.

X2 x3, yeah I agree cause this build log sucks without any pictures.

They probably didnt respond since they wont be showing you anything.

Answers are usually right in front of you, you just gotta look.

Ever heard of headroom?

You call me "so critical over nothing" yet ironically you're the one who ran to the internet to laugh at a guy for mispronouncing the name of a product. Because he's a competitor, he's supposed to be aware of every product available? He probably just competes in smaller shows where the lesser known brands aren't prominent. Stop being so critical over nothing.

Rockford Fosgate® - T2500-1bdCP :fyi: