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I am sure everyone is aware of our new Voltage Control Module, but here is a little info just in case. The VCM allows you to control the voltage output of your alternator and set it at a constant voltage. Once you have it set the voltage will not drop below the voltage you programed it for. The VCM plugs directly into your alternator (works on OEM or HO alternators) and the controller can be mounted on the dash or any where you want to install it. It allows you to make adjustments to your voltage output from inside the vehicle. These VCM Kits are ready to go and ship same day. XSP 310-312 VCM combo kit (86-97 (and some newer years) GM applications 4 wire rectangle plug) XSP 310-313 VCM combo kit (for 95 and up GM applications with 4 wire oval alternator plugs) XSP 310-314 VCM combo kit (85-95 import 4 wire round plug) XSP 310-317 VCM combo kit (84-96 import 3 wire round plug) To make sure you are getting the correct kit you really need to check your alternator and look at the plug that goes into your alternator. The VCMs are application specific and are determined by the alternator plug. Some vehicles have different type plugs for the same year and model, so please take the time and check the plug for your alternator.

As you may have noticed, I just added some nice icon's to all the Manufacturer's respective sections to help promote users to view their sections. Hopefully there will be learning, discussing and buying of products. Unlike "other" sites though, these are actually good looking icons. Enjoy

As mentioned above... it depends on a great many things. The more clean power the better up until a thermal or mechanical limit. 2600W of clipped boosted signal will make things more mad than 3200W of clean signal (and for all the naysayers I have plenty of measurements to prove it using our laser measurement, accelerometers, volt, current, and thermal measurements trying to find solid data in testing our drivers and new technologies). If you have plenty of voltage and current for the amps, no bass boost on the headunit or amp, a properly designed enclosure with respect to sizing, and tuning, the subsonic filter set up correct, gains correct with respect to headunit voltage, testing on an oscilloscope for clean signal at each step of the chain, then you can probably put more than our normal recommendations to it. But, this is seemingly not the norm and why we stick to our standard ratings. Thanks, Scott

I guess you could say the MLA is kind of like the VCM, although the only thing that is similar is that the MLA will increase your charging voltage dependent upon the value that comes from the company . There is no adjust-ability with the MLA. The VCM is like a computer in itself and allows you to adjust your voltage to your desired voltage and it will be a constant voltage. You can adjust it up to 19.5 volts on most alternators if you want. For example if you find that your system runs best when you are charging at 14.9volts. You program the VCM to 14.9 votls and it will recharge at a constant voltage of 14.9. This allows the user to attain the optimal recharge rate for their system without seeing the drop in voltage. The VCM will run multiple alternators with just one controller and the harness. Also after you program the voltage in and have it set the VCM turns in to a voltage gauge that you can use to monitor your voltage output.

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe False. And no, Kinetik is not going out of business. To my understanding they recently/are in the process of opening a third warehouse as to more quickly and easily distribute their quality product

If your independent lab does tests like you tested the clipping light, I'd take their tests with a grain of salt.

If it is custom you can't "find them" and yes the coils will change them. There has to be a reason why he recommended a certain size enclosure and without T/S I wouldn't venture outside his recommendations. Another reason why "custom" drivers RARELY make any sense. If you don't have a particular application where you need something changed and fully understand what you are doing sticking with a stock unit is a heck of a lot more logical.

You should at least gotten the T/S Parameters just in case, that would of been the smartest thing to do besides getting just the rms and enclosure sizes.

Leave 'em disconnected also.

I have seen the guy on ebay also, supposedly he buys from Jacob and your amp ships straight from Sundown. Those prices where the sale prices from the sale Jacob just had iirc. Why mess with him though when you could buy straight from Jacob, SSA, or DB-R I don't know, lol.

could be a typo, could be a scam, coule be a lot of things. me personally would only by from sundown themselves or a reputable dealer. better be safe than sorry

personally i would only buy from their website, or reputable dealer.... something that important i wouldnt risk with flaky ebay stuff.

Then you have to make sure you have the right electrical to deliver 2000 watts to those subs. Like stated above get the 3000D and be safe with knobs and volume but you should just stick with the 2000D since it is overrated. If you get the 3000D you minus well get the BP Option on your subs just to help you out thermally because eventurally your gonna wanna push your amp (usually that is habit, that will protect your woofers some as long as it is clean power).

Very good looking Mark! That's why SSA > Everyone else.

Do the math, for 3,500 watts you should have 350 amps of power on tap as they will be your maximum current draw, not taking into account the rest of the car's electrical system, and the amp you will have on your other speakers. I guarantee you'll need a high output alternator, the largest you can fit in your vehicle, an upgraded starting battery, and one but probably two large batteries in the rear. It takes power to make power.

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe

thats ur opinion

well if you consider "better" to be more power, then you would want to buy the btl with dual 2 ohm coils to wired in parallel down to 1 ohm. but to be honest, if you cant answer a question like that for yourself, im willing to bet you dont have electrical needed to support 2000 rms. you might want to do a little more research before you go ahead and buy that amp and sub. running 2000 rms for extended periods of time is going to require a high output alternator, a couple decent batteries, and 0 guage wire. and you really cant skimp out on buying electrical upgrades, or will fry your amp and possibly the sub. buying all that electrical equipment new might run you up to a 1000 bucks for 2000 rms. ive also heard alpine amps dont put out their rated power, but i cant say for sure. big systems cost big $$$