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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/19/2010 in Posts

  1. ok here u go. the following is what the car looks like stock- Notice the fuse in line with the alternator, that fuse is actually in your fuse box but everything else is dead on. The alternator's factory ground is ran through the mounting bracket that holds the alternator so there typically is no wire for alt ground. Now the following is more advanced wiring that u will need to do- ok, lets start with the alternator- First, you will want to upgrade your ground with a wire this time. If using an alternator which is rated for ~135A or less, 4awg ground wire is gine, otherwise 1/0 is highly preferred. To run this wire, make it less than 3ft long and connect it somewhere on the alternator's bracket via a bolt that currently exists and attach the other end to the car's frame. Some people will say to just attach it to the engine somewhere... Well, the point is to upgrade the alt's ground so by forcing it to go through factory brackets(multiple connections all joined together equals more and more resistance)... it's best to ground directly to the alt then to car's frame. Next, you will want to ADD, not replace, but add a new power connection from alt to battery. Same gauge wire recommendation as ground still exists here, however length can be as long as needed to reach battery's + post. MAKE SURE U FUSE THIS WIRE. Some people don't. If you do not and the connection ever goes to ground... your battery can explode or wire can catch fire, etc... fuse is best! Fuse this connection with either the fuse size of the factory fuse(if still a stock alternator) or the rating of the wire itself (4awg = 130-150A, 1/0 = 250-300A) Now you see another ground wire coming off starting battery.. that's necessary to decrease resistance. If you ever upgrade your alternator, It's MANDATORY that you do this or wire can catch fire if too much current is forced through factory wiring. Again, same gauge wire recommendation for this ground wire too. Now, the wire that joins the front battery to the rear needs to be big due to it's length. I recommend a minimum of 1/0 for this cable. Now you see how there is a fuse there right after the battery on this cable! Make sure you put that on there NO MORE THAN 18" from the starting battery! Now, we follow the cable on down to the SOLENOID. The solenoid is lenient on connection points so it's hard to goof this up. There are 4 points on a solenoid, 2 large and 2 small. the 2 large are POWER IN, POWER OUT. This is what the 1/0 cable is ran into and back out of. The other 2 points are ground and 12v ignition wire. It doesnt matter which one you use, just ground one with 18awg wire or larger wire and the other point MUST BE connected to 12v ignition wire using ~16awg or larger due to it's length to run from the back of the car to the front. 12v ignition wire is ran to the stereo so u can tap off that. This wire is usually the large red wire going to stereo but make sure it is before just tapping into it. Now, we go power out from the solenoid to another fuse. This fuse is the SAME SIZE as the previous fuse size on the same wire. Both fuse sizes can be either 250 or 300A. These fuses are to protect the wire and since this is 1/0, that is there typical current rating. MAKE SURE THIS FUSE IS WITHIN 18" OF THE REAR BATTERY! Now, after that fuse, it runs into the battery's positive post. If you have another battery back there, the positive on the first battery will run in parallel with the positive on the other battery. Also parallel all grounds to all rear batteries. It is NOT required to run a ground from the back battery to the front AND NEVER recommended to do that as a primary ground for the rear battery(ies). After all batteries are connected in the back, run 1 or 2 4awg or 1/0 wire grounds to the car's frame with each wire being no longer than 3ft. That's it! When connecting amps, try and run the amp's ground directly to the battery if it's within 3ft of length. If you think it's gonna be longer than 3ft to get to the battery's ground post from amp but u can run it to the car's frame in under 3ft, do that instead. When running power cable from all amps to battery(ies), make sure you put a fuse on EACH power run within 18" from the battery it is going to. that should do it.
  2. No, stop it. Icon owns those all day.
  3. wow, we took our next step. This has been a goal of ours for a long while. Why? well, this is somewhat how IAK began to grow, right here in the forums of SSA. yup. mdizzle and I meet up at a local show here in Indy. He had mentioned SSA and his support for thier strong, no bull crap style forum. " not alot of filth, like the other ones" we told each other, as i too had been lurking for a long while. He was reppen' hard for the XCON, and even handing out flyers....lol. So, as we started to hang out, the birth of IAK was also starting.... you see, all of my family is involved in audio..... we had a meeting, everyone said "let's try it" so we did. the first thing that was made clear, we are a family based team! we are all family. a positive enviroment for all ages to be around. we do plenty of cruising with the kids, as well as alot of late night cruising with out them. we attend alot of shows, and meet at least once a month, striving to acheive our goals. size not being of issue nor location, due to the convienance of having SSA as a meeting place at any time, any schedule. we base our goals on growing in knowledge and helping each other learn. growing together. So, now we have a official team section, we will have to strive to grow and improve even more. By all means, if being a part of our family is something you are interested in, pleas send me a pm, let's talk. we will be attempting to post up all of the current builds on here as well as all of the ones that are to start soon. thanks for the privelage of having this team section, Mark and AAron. chop IAK
  4. Try em sealed and see if you like them. They will get damn loud sealed up! I bet 4 sealed would break your car. Post pics.
  5. Alright! This is cool. Big thanks to Mark and Aaron for the section!!! You guys are awesome and I really appreciate the time and effort you put into this site, which you allow us all to enjoy. Time to start tearing apart the truck!
  6. tell him devices only receive current when they need it. just because cuttrrent runs over something doesnt mean it receives it too

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