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Box size has alot to do with mechanical power handling. If you are going to be pushing your woofer beyond it's rated RMS power you need to be very mindful of this fact and put the woofer in no larger than the minimum suggested enclosure for music program. We design our woofers for very small enclosures and power ratings are there for a reason -- you can continue to push a driver like the SA-8 beyond RMS power and it will not be stressed whatsoever thermally by the time you can cause mechanical issues. The motor, especially on the SA-8, is VERY strong -- being an 8" driver there is limited mechanical throw available. The driver retains high motor force all the way up to the point where you can start breaking it. In any event... based on my testing so far you can expect something like the following on mechanical power handling vs. ported box size on the SA-8 : 1.25 cubic feet = 300 watts 1.00 cubic feet = 400 watts 0.80 cubic feet = ~450-500 watts 0.60 cubic feet = ~500-600 watts You may ALSO need a subsonic filter depending on box tuning. The rated RMS power is 400 watts RMS -- if you push past that you are voiding warranty coverage. We are bringing in re-cone parts and they can be fixed, though, for those of you who like to push things. If you have any doubts about your ability to monitor your listening habits just stick to the 0.60 recommendation. To re-iterate... they are not fragile. I have ton ALOT of testing on them with enormous amounts of power -- the above considers full bandwidth music program that can drop to very low frequencies and is a safe suggestion. If you are an SPL competitor then you probably already know this and these suggestions don't really apply for burps @ tuning. We have put in excess of 600% of RMS power on them for SPL burps.

Here is a test we did a few years back... Always surprises people... http://forum.carstereos.org/clipping-test-...41.html?t=47441 -Mike

Some people don't mind paying a little more for better quality stuff. I pay very good money for my gear, because I expect it to perform at a very high rate, for a long time. I don't mind spending more money on my amps than you have in your whole system. In fact, the majority of my gear, in individual pieces, cost more then your whole system. The only thing by itself that didn't is my sub amp, which happens to be a Cadence ZRS amp. When you stop and think about it, that says a lot. I have $600 in subs, $900 in front stage amp, $1000 in front components, and a $150 Cadence sub amp. Did you catch that? If someone spends that kind of money in an SQ system and buys a $150 sub amp, that speaks volumes about the quality of that amp. Perhaps it isn't worth it to you, but to me it really is. I have exactly what I want, it sounds amazing, looks great, delivers a clean, pure sound, and it is extremely dependable. Perhaps people just want nicer things. Just because you can't afford it, doesn't mean that others can't, and it doesn't mean they shouldn't. Cheap isn't better... in fact, it is usually a sign of cost cutting measures... or a possible concern over long term dependability. Also, not a single amp listed will break the budget at all. Everybody's suggestions fell right within, or just a shade over the OP's set budget. Nobody is recommending anything based on a name, the above suggested amplifiers are all really solid performers at great prices. There is no stigma associated with any brand listed, they are all small company units. Nobody is recommending JL because of their big name status, they are recommending amplifiers they use, or have seen in use, that offer rated or better, very reliable, and dependable power. No offense, but I would never put an Audiopipe amp in my car. I have never seen any testing done on the amplifier at all, and as far as reliability, it hasn't been out long enough to prove that it is reliable and dependable, and frankly it is pretty dirty power. Besides, your sig says the gear is coming soon... so I have to ask, are you basing your suggestion on first hand knowledge, or just blindly suggesting gear? Finally, your opinion on the matter is not the only one that counts. In fact, seeing as how you recommend the same amp all the time, it is important that the OP realize this and consider the suggestion accordingly. This is a forum with varying opinions, and experiences. There is no "/thread" like you suggest. And as far as the dickhead comment; You might need to grow up a little. It is about that time. If you are old enough to have your driver's license, you should really act like it.

Always going to be people to say they can do better and such, but in the end if the end result makes you happy who gives a damn?

You are aware that there are other amplifiers out there, right? You need to expend your horizons a bit. To the OP, I like the Cadence ZRS amp. I have been using their amps for a decade now, and they always do better than rated and are exceptionally reliable... I still run a ~ 10 year old Z7000HC (1500@1 class AB) on my Brahma in my hot rod. The ZRS amps are very solid amps, and I am actually using a ZRS6000D on my subs in my daily driver right now. It puts out rated, and then some, has a nice small footprint and doesn't even get warm. The output is quite clean too.

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm there ya go