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We took apart our bass-knobs and it only takes 1 hole to mount through the center console, you will loose the light but if that is not an issue would probly work. Here is a pic of ours Hope that helps.

I would take anything Dan Wiggins tells you he do for you with a grain of salt.... There is a reason Adire isn't around anymore, and that pretty much is it... I think it would be much easier and pratical (and perform better) to change your goals to allow more cone area with your designs instead of increased xmax.... Or lower your overall output goal... Another thing about prototypes and one-offs (like the Parth)... If they do work as promised, over time, you always run the risk of screwing them up and then you just have a multi thousand dollar door stop. The Parthenon has never been used in an actuall alignemnt other than having a large dipole diaphram attached to it (someone please correct me with a picture if I am wrong here) and the pole piece/suspention was never really endurance tested. When you saw it operate, it had full contact moving parts, the kind that wear out really quick.... Awesome motor though... That bastard was over $1K in raw materials though, iirc....

Dayton ND20 would do more than fine. I wouldn't worry about bandpassing, just high pass the tweet with a simple first order passive. You may want to use your active temporarily to find out at what freq though. If not, 15k is probably a reasonable choice for a random guess.

I would agree with Sean that trying to use the 12" with a tweeter in a 2-way in an automobile is probably a bad idea. I would stick with a 3-way front stage and add a tweeter to cover to top few octaves if necessary.

The 12 has been used in home audio speakers playing up to 1kHz. Personally that doesn't mean it will blend well with a tweeter in a car. I'd stick with the 3 or go to a 4 & a tweet, but I would first nail down what you have and determine what bothers you. Adding a tweet for just the really high frequencies wouldn't be all that hard.

If you have to ask. 1K RMS.

Describe "loose" for me. Is the pedal going to the floor, is the pedal soft, does it work at all, does it not begin to engage until it is low, or what? Without being able to drive the car it is hard to get an idea of what you are talking about. If it is a hydraulic clutch it uses brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it will absorb water. Water does boil and become a vapor, so it can create air pockets when hot. This is why we flush brake fluid. But TBH it is an extremely rare phenomenon in your average everyday car, and frankly one I have never seen it occur in a hydraulic clutch. Yes it goes on to the floor doesn't let you into gears. It uses brake fluid. So im guessing its hydraulic. We recently put some in, DOT3 fluid. When this happens the car still turns on but it doesn't go into gear(s). This relly only happens about once every 1 or 2 months. This isn't normal right? No, it's not normal. So I guess if you are putting fluid in it, that you are losing fluid, correct? If so it would seem like you have a leak in the system. You have a clutch master cylinder, which is exactly like a brake master, which is where you put your fluid in. Usually they leak out the rear seal. To check this, get under the dash on the driver's side and follow the rod that connects to the clutch pedal to the firewall. There will be a rubber boot there that looks like a bellows in most cases. Pull the boot back and check for brake fluid. You might have enough of a leak that you will see the fluid there without pulling the boot back if you get lucky. You will also have a rubber line or 2 between the master and slave (which is a cylinder on the transmission). Check those for leaks as well. Finally, that cylinder on the tranny, it will have a boot on it too, pull it back and check for fluid in it, if it isn't leaking very obviously. But the odds are that the mechanic who pulled the tranny to do the clutch would have seen the slave leaking. I would think the clutch master is the most likely culprit.