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You do understand that we rate it at 2000 watts rms right?

I found some great bassy music. Check out some Bassnectar. A customer at work got me turned onto this stuff. Its dubstep which is club music but it bumps.

Dedication and craftsmanship! Enjoy .... 21 Maelstrom Curved Box Build - AVS Forum

So for those of you that may not of seen the other post, this is whats going in there 2 sa 12's in a box tuned to 28-29hz before car peak 1 jbl baby crown amp the 1200 one 1 autotek 4 channel for mids and highs 2 mb quart 6.5 component sets 1 for back and 1 for front for mids and highs 1 pioneer avh-5700 50 feet of 1/0 for power extra battery Here is me getting started

Getting started. Andrew

Got my SSD in today. All I can say is WOW. short video playing late night tip

This is yet another build for my good friend. Seems he has to buy a new truck every year or so... What's Going in: 2 Massive Audio DB8000 Amps 8000w @ 1 ohm strapped (the two amps will be strapped and running 1.33ohm) 1 Massive Audio HD1600.4 200w x 4 @ 2 ohm 1 Soundstream Ref Comp set 6.5" (something used I had sitting around that he liked) 3 Rival Mobile Electronics A12.22 4" VC D2 ohm 2000w RMS 2 Shruiken BT120's JVC Deck--nothing fancy 1/0 everywhere... big 3 ect... all tsunami cables **not sure on the rear speakers yet... they're not all that important... he's got some old soundstream 6x9's that we'll probably stuff in there..

Thanks. I'm glad I gave the IB set up a shot. To be honest I had so many people talking crap about how it would have weak output or that I should just build a box...that it made it hard to commit to going IB. Well after getting this fired up I realize that very few people knew what the hell they where talking about. I have to believe the Fi subs and there power handling played a big part in the performance. It probably helped that I put a lot of thought and time into getting the trunk and cabin sealed from each other. Did you ever get your IB set up dialed in? I did get a bit more done also. I bored a hole in the interior to start filling the front of the 1/4 panels with foam. 1 quart of mixed foam filled from the rocker to the rear deck solid. It can make a mess if you don't get all the openings taped off. This is the area inside the trunk above the wheel tub. The foam really expands and fills a lot of space with a small amount of foam mix. Decided to glass and paint the dash to match the rear deck now. Made a 1/8" press board panel for a air bag delete. Glued it in and filled the top with foam. I just used masking tape to make a border around the area that needed filling. Trimmed, sanded, and ready for glass.

All install dependent! Just about all quality built drivers are able to get loud, just that some are built to get loud! I would suggest doing some more research and try and listen to as many systems as you can to get an idea of what you may or may not want.

As much cone area as you can fit, but it's impossible to suggest somehting that will work when we absolutely NOTHING about your installation.

really pumped how it tured out...just over 3cubes picked up some damp. pro b stock from second skin, i know this stuff is legit so i picked some up for my next car. Powa! feels good running only a hc600 compared to a 2400 using 4ga knu for the whole car. Should work out nice

alright here are some pics. fist will be some older pics from last week i wasnt able to upload. here is the dual 2awg ground. the hole through the floor. voltage readout w/o the big 3 and here are some pics i just took a couple minutes ago 23 ft of 1/0 wire and here is a size comparison between the old wire i was runing(lol) and the new stuff and i gots 4 12's in my room!

AudioPipe APSM1300: Control Settings and Cooling on Bottom of amp:

You need one of these: That is all.

I started spray painting the box, the port will be black and the undercoat on the box will be black. I will either be using black stone or grey stone spray paint for the final coat just havent decided yet, more pictures will come soon. I finished filling the speaker hole with silicone and wood glue to make sure there is a permanent seal. I picked up some screws today to use to mount the subwoofer with, since its raining I will have to take a break on the box for the next couple of days (damn hurricanes ). Sub amp will get here tomorrow and I cant wait Port Box Half-Painted

just bought a new deck yesterday got rid of the old sony installed the new deck and made a world of difference the sound quality of the new deck is amazing the specs for the new deck are: CD Player KD-A815 MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3 Tag/WMA Tag Yes CD-R/RW Compatible Yes CD Text Yes Random/Repeat Play Yes Frequency Response 5 - 20,000Hz Dynamic Range 96dB Signal-to-Noise Ratio 102dB Channel Separation More than 85dB Wow & Flutter Less than measurable limit Bluetooth Conrol KD-A815 Bluetooth Control [2] Yes (USB Bluetooth Adapter included) Hands Free Call Yes Audio Streaming & Control Yes Text Message Display Yes (Receipt notification only) Phone Book Transfer Manual (400 Max.) Mic Unit Yes iPod/iPhone Control KD-A815 iPod Control Yes (USB) iPhone Control Yes (USB) Play / Pause / Skip / Search Yes Rndom/Repeat Play Yes Text Yes Battery Charge Yes (USB) 2-Way Control for iPod/iPhone (Headunit/iPod or iPhone Mode) [3] Yes (USB) USB KD-A815 Position Front/Rear MP3/WMA Compatible with ID3 Tag/WMA Tag Yes AAC/WAV Compatible [1] Yes (WAV only) Random/Repeat Play Yes iPod/iPhone Playback Yes Tuner KD-A815 HD Radio Ready (KT-HD300) SAT Radio Ready Yes Tuner Type HS-IVi Yes Preset Stations 6 AM + 18 FM Station Name Registration Yes SSM (for FM) Yes Seek (Up/Down) Yes Stereo/Mono Switch (for FM) Yes European Switchable Tuner Yes FM Frequency Range 87.5 - 107.9MHz Usable Sensitivity 9.3dBf (0.8uV/75 ohms) 50dB Quieting Sensitivity 16.3dBf (1.8uV/75 ohms) Stereo Separation 40dB AM Frequency Range 530 - 1,710kHz Sensitivity 20uV Selectivity 40dB Amplifier KD-A815 Maximum Power Output 50W x 4 Continuous Power Output (RMS) (CEA-2006 Compliant) 20W RMS x 4 CH at 4 ohms and no more than 1.0% THD + N MOS-FET Amplifier Yes Audio DAC TI/Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC Yes Source-Specific Volume Control Yes Volume Attenuator Yes Loudness Control Yes (3 patterns) Balance/Fader Control Yes EQ 3-Band Parametric iEQ Yes LPF/HPF Cross Over Yes HPF Yes Max. Amp Gain Switcher Yes Amp Defeat Switch Yes Front AUX Input Yes Line Output Terminals (Pair) 3 Pairs (Gold-Pated, Front + Rear + Subwoofer) Subwoofer Output with Level/Frequency Control Yes (Gold-Plated) Load Impedance 4 ohms (4 - 8 ohms allowable) Line Output Level 5.0V Line Output Impedance 1 kohms Subwoofer Output Level 5.0V Display KD-A815 Display Type Full Dot LCD Yes Level Meter Yes Contrast Control Yes Switchable Dimmer Yes General KD-A815 Detachable Control Panel with Carrying Case Yes Steering Remote Control Ready Yes Wireless Remote Control Type Oval-Shaped Wireless Remote Control Yes Beep Tone Support Yes (From Speakers) COMPU PLAY Yes Rotary Encoder Yes Power-Off Mode Eject Yes Dimensions (W x H x D) Installation Size 7-3/16'' x 2-1/16'' x 6-5/16'' (182 x 52 x 160mm) Panel Size 7-7/16'' x 2-5/16'' x 1/4'' (188 x 58 x 5.6mm) Detachable Face Plate Size 6-3/4'' x 1-7/8'' x 3/4'' (170 x 46 x 18.8mm) also forgot to mention picked it up for 149.00 can$

i applied a couple layers of speckled gray spray and i like the look of it. I am sick of using black with white specks so i thought i would change it up a bit. Plus i thought it would look nice with a giant ass black aeroport coming out of the side. Paint still has to dry for another hour and then ill be putting in the terminals, predrill the screws in for the BL. Almost completed in a single day

6: Aero 18" long. 3.1cuft NET @33hz Pay close attention- The baffle, back and LEFT side are dual layered.

and here are subs in the box and a picture if you can tell of them playing now I am testing box firing options, have turned box where subs and port are up, and pushed as far back as possible then I will push it up closer and test it for a bit up against the seat then subs and port forward test then I will go from there about double face, the extra bracing, and ect...

ok here is the sub amp

ok here is a few more, showing the amp and everything else going it here is mids and high amp that was in and then pulled out thinking it was bad, pissed about radio acting up still here are the subs ooo btw here is the wire, look how flexible it was

the Start of the box will work on more if it tonight, this is where I am at though.. plan on doing more pics, and what not

Here is some more

Here's a few pictures for ya whores out their DC alt on the way, should have it in a week or so! I'll have a couple videos tomorrow woot!

I haven't used it yet but will soon. The package claims that is ridged, sandable, paintable and expands 10x. The package says its for sealing off internal body cavitys to reduce noise and the make them more structurly solid. recommened for car box sections such as a-pillars. Won't deform the panel. The name on the package is IES INTER-FOAM 10. Sorry to clog the build but thought you might be interested. No worries. It's good info. I've never seen the foam like that. I've used that style of set up for panel bond adhesive though. That will be much easier for doing smaller areas that are hard to pour foam into. I use the stuff that comes in bulk containers that you mix A with B and then have about 30 seconds to get it poured before it starts expanding. Update.. There is a little more to do but here is a peek at it. The back seat set in place. Now lets see if I remember how to post a video. Let me know if they aren't working. Front windows down and flexing. did I say it plays low? 15hz test tone putting them to work. Finally found a good use for my daughters long hair :cheesy: Now all the gear gets pulled back out and I get busy with the sound deadener.

Bolted the baffle in a sealed it up. Used a piece of flat bar to sandwich the board between it and the angle. I used stover nuts on everything to keep them from backing off. Then I foam filled the dead space between the rear deck and the baffle board. I did this to both seal and prevent rattles. I'll trim it all once it sets up and then put a coat of black paint on it. Started wiring up the batteries. So close now to hearing this thing.

Mounted and wired the crossovers and speakers. I added another piece of MDF to the back of the panels to sandwich the door panel to prevent rattles. I set the panels back on for now. I need to go pick up new door clips for a better fit. Finished prepping the baffle and installed T nuts. I glued some felt to the frame work to prevent the wood from making noise. Installed baffle. It still needs to be bolted down and sealed though. It fits nicely. Ran power cable through the board and the other cables under neath. I used my router to do a relief notch to prevent the wires from getting pinched. Finally sorted out the trunk lifts. I just need to pick up a couple more ball stud mounts and it's good to go. Next on the list is to finish the battery wires and seal the baffle, then it will be time for the test run.

Sneek Peek at the Moofers...

It's the factory color for the exterior of the car and it's a very classy color that looks great in the sun. You spy correctly the 9" was going to be for this car but I'm building a fab 9 housing instead thats why the 3rd member is pulled. With 19 batteries in the trunk plus sounds and pumps I need the strongest axle and housing I can fit under this thing. Ya, I'll have to get some outdoor pics when the sun is out. Here is a little sneek peek of them partially installed. Started getting the doors back together and blacked out the baffle board. The flash makes the color look lighter than it is. Now to get my game plan together for all the foam filling and sealing of the trunk and cabin. As always thanks for all the positive comments. I hope this build has motivated others to put in some work.

I finally got everything painted today. Base coat Clear coat. My "spray booth" ventilation is a little weak.

well here are the pics my home music system for now. thats all i got for now

Did some glassing Yesterday... Put the top on trimmed up the top today... opened up the port as well--still have finish work to do in there.. I'm holding off until I get the flare glassed--it's an addition to the top of the box. no sense in doing a ton of sanding now when resin is bound to drip down there later.. test fitting the amps... getting an idea of the wiring layout ect...

Thanks guys. I always push myself to do the best job possible. Don't forget filler and paint and... seriuosly though I try to tackle everything myself, it's the only way to get quality work these days. Too many people out there just slap shit together and take peoples hard earned money without truely earning it. I'm not afraid of failing thats why I can do what I do. Enough about me. Back to the build... Made some panels for the rear doors just to make sure they match the finish on the front doors. Then primered them and gave all the other parts a few more coats after blocking them flat. Got the head unit all wired and ran the rca, speaker, and power wires to the trunk. rca's ran down the tunnel. Speaker wires down the driver side rocker. 2 runs of 0/1 down the passenger rocker. I tried to keep al the wires as far apart as possible and any wires that had to cross were done at a 90 degree angle. I feel like I'm getting somewhere finally.

Made a little mp3 holder while waiting on my 3sixty exchange. Here's the the Zune, wrapped in layers of tape to serve as the mold: Removed from fiberglass, about to be trimmed: Trimmed up: Added filler and sanded smooth(ish): Painted: The uneven surface on the inside is meaningless since that will be covered in felt: A bit of a rushed job, but here's the final product:

Thanks. Well we are now one step closer to seeing it in paint as of today. I'm going to try to get it painted this weekend weather allowing. More progress today. Made the brackets to hold the rear seat. I'll be drilling the holes larger and replacing the screws with bolts and lock nuts. Didn't feel like running to the hardware store today. Also drilled the angle support in the car to give more mounting points for the baffle. I used some spray on bedliner stuff instead of under coating this time. Then I masked it off and sprayed some high build 2K.

the way it is as of yesterday... baffel mounted... the top board is just sitting there... that's not where it belongs **this thing is now too bulky/heavy to move on my own

Probably the last set of pics on the rack, since everything else that needs work is just wiring. Put the sub in though and ghetto-rigged it to my amps... now just waiting for the 3sixty replacement so I can actually have decent crossover options. I think I've decided to stick with the grill for now, actually. Hard to tell in the pics, but it matches the interior fabric of my seats and does a decent job of covering the chrome bling that is JBL's dustcap. Looks better in person too.

clamping on the 1" worth of spacer to bring the subs back. test fitting the parts actually gluing the port/battery tray down underside.... ignore the scribbles... baffle... glass drying...

here's some early pics of the box... it's further along now I just need to upload the other pics... these are off my cell

Ugh, I knew things were going too smoothly! My 3sixty.2 doesn't power up. Will have to exchange it now, which means it may be a few more weeks before everything is finalized. Still, everything is installed regardless. And the amps power up, which is a small mercy I suppose. I also threw some cloth over an MDF grill frame, just to see how it'd turn out... not sure yet whether I'll keep it in the end or just leave the sub uncovered. Decisions. The wiring is a mess... not sure it's gonna get any better either, lol. Limited space ftw.

Thanks. I spent most the day working on it. Attached the end caps and added some 2x4 pieces to reinforce the joints. I also added some trim pieces for looks on the rear brace. Started doing some of the filling and smoothing but still have a lot of sanding to do. Another test fit. I need to do a couple of slots for the wiring but it fits real good other than that.

Gutted RCA's and speaker wires all loomed up *note that I hand washed the entire floor... A little deadener... cheap stuff... just what I had sitting around. *all these photos are pre- heatgun/roller... just laid down in the pics Carpet Pad__removed them and washed them up.. they were pretty nasty.. the carpet was all stained up.. some oxyclean and scrubbing took care of the carpet.. cd wiring, soldered and heat shrinked all the wires... *we didn't clean the cargo carpet... yet... going back together apparently I didn't get any pics of the door speaker install.. pretty basic.. mids and highs are in factory location.. I'll get some box build pics posted later today or tomorrow.

I sectioned the front baffle and layed it back 5" at the top. Added some gussets and bracing. Mounted the subs to check clearance. Shit is close. Going to see if I can get the rest of the woodwork done on it tomorrow.

Well this weekend sucked. After doing some more mock up of the hydraulics I discovered the rear cylinders were going to hit the outside subs. So out came the baffle board and into the trash it went. The new layout. I still need to cut the holes for these subs. Put the rack back in the trunk and mocked up the amps to check for clearance on the subs. I don't feel like going for a 3rd attempt on this. It sucks that I had to rework this but at least I've come up with a design that will be easier to install and get sealed up when it's done.

I've started putting the pieces together now. I've done about as much as I can until my knukonceptz order comes in and I can mock-install all my wiring to determine where everything needs to be mounted. After that I can seal, paint, and carpet everything together. Just a few quick updates until then: The bottom piece. Equipment gets mounted on the right; the left is part of the sub airspace. The horizontal wooden bar nearer the top of the image is bolted to the chassis and will allow me to drill through the false floor and into a secure mounting point. The false floor. The righthand side leaves a removable window to access the equipment mounted below. And yes, miraculously enough, that is enough space for two amps, a processor, and my distribution blocks. The subwoofer box. Uses the basement airspace and a little above the floor. 1.7ft.^3 in total, after accounting for the W12GTi. These pieces are not yet attached. Equipment window closed. I'll install a rope or something on the underside that will allow this piece to be pulled up at will. The grill frame. I'm waiting on some grill guides from PE, after which time it will be primed/painted and covered in grill cloth. The whole thing. It won't be completely assembled until it's ready to be installed permanently. If the mailman cooperates, that might be as early as this weekend.

They are just some left over fasteners from another job. I'll trim them down flush once I'm done. I may put a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate under the amps for piece of mind. I don't like the amps being that close to the batteries in case of a freak meltdown. Strength is very important this ride will see lots of abuse when it's done and I don't want shit coming apart. I mounted the breakers today in the same manner as the amps. This will be the main power from the alternator. These will be for the amps.

Thanks. This build is definetly getting complex. There is going to be a total of 19 batteries (3 for audio and 16 for the hydraulics) ,4 hydraulic pumps, 2 amps, 4 12" subs, and enough cable and hoses to power a small village. It will be a very tight fit but will be super clean and organized. I almost finished the amp rack. Just need to modify a couple things but it's close. I finished welding the tray to the subframe then moved onto the hold down. Just showing off here. Welded a 1/2" stover nut onto the tie down bracket which I failed to take pics of. Hold down/amp rack top side Under side. Bolted on. I still need to drill and tap the frame for bolting the amps down but here is the layout.

Yes they can. Thanks. Finally got the trim piece done. I'm pleased with it now it looks like it belongs there. Now I need to get the amp locations sorted out.