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I can second that. My 15's sounded incredible in a 6cf sealed box and were still very loud. Really hard punch and excellent transient response. I loved them sealed on rock and metal !!

Get with Don at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi contact e-mail: [email protected] He will help you with whatever it is that you need and wil recommend what is need without overselling with what you don't need. Good Luck!!

From the sound of your post you have the understanding of "install dependent" You mentioned you are not new to audio, but if you have not heard of the BIG3: read up at this link, it will help out with any electrical and give ground work if you upgrade any electrical in the future. Keep reading, as I can tell you have, we can allways learn something to enhance are skills with installs. Good Luck!!

After our Fiside Chat, I needed to get back to work. Here are some pics in progress of another N1 motor. Testing revised GCode on top and back plates. Making chips out of the plate where the gap should be. Top plate after edge chamfer, but before gap bump profile, peck drill for basket holes, and tap. Paused during tool change. Back plate after pocket for rear Fi sticker and chamfer. Back plate sitting on top of vibratory tumbler. Back plate in media ready to do some time getting cleaned up in the tumbler. Production plates will go through the surface grinder first to get things really flat before machining. Not showing the proprietary production fixturing for these. It will help run multiple parts at the same time to reduce machine down time. Thanks, Scott

Ports are ports, in all honesty SPL guys use aeros because the displace less because of material used, and they are easier to modify for tuning purposes, NO other difference.

Getting the ears jigged for removal. Removed. I also section the crossmember and flattened the top out some to gain clearance for the oil pan. Pinched, welded, and polished. Pulled the frame off the table to flip it over to finish welding the crossmember back together. Then I turned my attention to removing some more ugly shit from the frame. Not running a sway bar so theres no need for this ugly hump here. Did the same thing on the other side. I'll box them in with 1/8" before doing the full plating. Next on the chopping block were the side frame rails. I'm using a press broke piece of 3/16" down the sides and don't want it hanging down 3" under the rocker. These frames have a raised section that runs on an angle which would cause the frame to look lower up front. Front edge. Rear edge. So I cut it down to make it even front to rear and also removed the lip the trans crossmember sits on. This what will go back on. I even drew it out for those that don't understand whats going on. Details, details, details. This thing will be smoother than Bill D. Williams when I'm done. Trimmed the other side frame rail down. Then removed the steering stabilizer bracket since it's not going back on. Did chop some more ugly off the other day. I still didn't like the shape even after cutting the sway bar mount off. So I took another cut out to straighten the lines out more.

Had to section/pinch the frame rails to get the edges to line back up. Here some pics of the batery racks that I started on while doing the sound system since the batteries and amps for that will share the rack with the set up. It all starts with a pile of steel. I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 3/16" tube for the sub frame and 2" X 2" X 1/8" angle for the battery trays. I like to do my corners like this. Makes them strong and easy to polish the welds smooth. One tray bottom done. I also bevell the edge of the tube for the same reasons. Bottom side. Trays bolt to the subframe. Added some battery tie down points and made so tabs for mounting the breakers for the amps. This doubles as the audio battery tie down and amp rack. Used 1" X 2" X 1/8" tube and 2" X 2" X 3/16" angle. Doing some test fitting. The MDF is there to set the gap the rack will need. I still need to do the tie downs, pump mount, and solenoid mounts Got started with cutting the rear crossmember out. I won't be needing any of that wack stock crap. I spent a couple hours laying out my reference marks and taking notes of measurements for later use before I cut it all out. Then I started to shave the frame down to smooth the lines out for a cleaner look. Removed the circle piece that was raised up. Then the lower T/A mount was next on the chopping block. Here is the results. Before. After. I will weld an 1/8" plate in the hole where the T/A mount was before plating the frame to insure there is no weak spot there. These couple mods will make a big difference in how the frame will look after plating it. I also pulled out all the suspension joints and new rearend housing to start formulating a plan for the new lay out. It will be getting a Fab 9 housing that was purchased from Ballistic Fabrication. The center section is formed from 1/4" plate and the axle tubes are 3 1/2" dia. 1/4" wall(actually looks closer to 5/16") DOM. Like I said, I'm raising the bar with this build. Using all Ballistic Fabrication suspension joints. I'll be using their poly mounts for the custom engine and trans mounts as well. This should give you an idea of how strong these things are. They have a 1 1/4" shank on the threaded joints. They are also rebuildable and can be adjusted for wear of the race if needed. All the rear suspension links will be made from thick walled DOM tube. I'm still debating the size though.

Sorry I've been slacking on the chassis pics guys. I forgot about this thread. This chassis is going to get the works. Pinched belly, custom A arms, one off rear suspension, one off 9" rearend w/ disc brakes, spindle swap.... It will be a slow start but should pick up speed soon. I started by making a complete chassis jig to locate and hold all body mount locations. Here is a few of the parts for the jig. This sits in the body mount hole. Like this. Then gets another washer on top that sandwiches the frame down to the jig post. All the posts are bolted to the table but I still need to tie them together from one side to the other with more tubing. Almost finished with the jig. I made the cross supports today and welded them in. Notching the tube. Test fitting. All welded in. Every upright and cross bar was checked for square and level to insure the jig is accurate. This is what the level reads as it sits in the previous pic. Stared on pinching the belly today. I added a couple legs and crossbrace to keep the front frame horns from tipping or pulling. Then I laid out my cut line and started cutting. Crossmember removed. Ready for some modifications. As for the cutting of the crossmember it's the only way to know whats moving and how much it moves. This is why I cut it out. I can find center and mark it, pie cut the bottom the desired amount, and seperate it in the center. This prevents having to use a ram or clamp to bend it together. I can tack it together check all my dimensions and then weld it up. I use the chassis table and set final dimensions to insure everything is square. I used these bolts and a level to make sure the lower A arm mounts are level. Also made sure the upper ears were all touching the table to make sure it wasn't twisted. Crossmember is back in. I did corner to corner measurements from the upper A arm bolts to the front body mount jig bolt to get it centered in the frame. I used the threaded rod again to set level on the lower A arm pivot points. Rear pivot points.

BL will still hold its own against the N1. The N1 is geared a little more towards SQ and not a monster tough sub. The N1 will cost a little more than the BL too. Only so low we can go with the cost of Neo. In recent conversations with several people, most feel that the N1 should be geared towards SQ, like a light weight Q, more so than a light weight BL. While I have always leaned in that direction, it did test well with the BL coil in it. I understand the thinking: Q seems to be a little more esoteric sub for a discerning listener that would appreciate the weight savings. BL tends to be brutalized and appreciated for its heft. Id say, stick with the BL. Thanks, Scott

You have to realize this thread is nearly 3 years old. This was before Don had all the knowledge he has amassed and many of us were skeptical to anything new. Fatmat was and still is a joke. People still buy it out of ignorance. People still buy Second Skin, Rammat, Dynamat and all others and apply it to every piece of their vehicle in multiple layers due to ignorance. In my eyes, Don is The Don of noise control. He's the only one I've seen who knows his products in and out, had a hand in development, and will work with you to get it right the first time. He tells you how you can be more effective using less product. He's essentially taking money OUT of his pocket and keeping it in the consumer's. You have never seen this with any other manufacturer. Still, even equipped with this knowledge, they are selling you on ineffective methods and overuse of product.

I like this combo They like small ported boxes too. 1.75 ft^3 30hz You could save a few bucks on a different amp if you wanted

gain turned up 1/4 on an ap1500 DEFINITELY isn't 1000rms. 3/4 should be closer to 1000