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Maybe you should spend some money on that poor child that is in all your pictures instead of trying to spend money on inappropriate gear and wave your e-dick around.

This would be another option Sears It's microprocessor controlled and would be safer than an ordinary charger where that could overcharge if left on and forgotton about.

That doesn't surprise me at all. A friend of mine had a 200 or 220 from him that did 24 amps, even after it was sent back 3 times. Also, my friend had to use the regulator off of his stock alt because he didn't send the alt with a regulator at all. I think the general consensus is the load testers don't work right if you like Iraggi, because clearly the alternator can't be flawed..... See the vents on the tester? That's to dissipate heat, from the load it puts on it. It basically dead shorts it to a coil, like a heater. Load testers work, I used to have one I used for the same purpose. There are different levels of amperage load testers, but 74 amps seems like an odd number to be maxing out, especially when they gotta test over 100 amp alts all the time that are stock. So for the poster who said a tester read 1200 amps because it maxed out the 100 amp tester, his said 74, which is less than 100, and certainly not 1200. Good luck on getting an email response, he's known for not answering emails, or phone calls, or keeping promises, or having a product that works. This has been going on for at least 7 years and somehow people keep buying them. Last I knew, he threw in the towel and sold the name to somebody.

correct, RCAs going to the sub amp are mono while 4 channel are stereo inputs.

you can hook into either one of the positive or negative speaker terminals on the amp, they are the same unless your strapping them i think. dont think the RCAs matter. there is no left/right.

Teaser for those that asked. I'll post more pics up at ht

Do this, 1. Get a DMM 2. Check your Voltage from the front at the + post, at the (front) battery + 3. Check the rear AT the battery bank if you have one, BEFORE the battery bank (the wire coming from the front) 4. Check at the amplifier. 5. Report back to us the voltages. (car running BTW)

you should put it back together, hook only power, ground and remote up (and of course fusing). If it's still in protect, read what voltage the power terminals are seeing. If it's above 10v, then contact db-r.

Slightly off topic but why would fosgate manufacturers build their amps with a predetermined subsonic filter? Back on topic- I would suggest two 12 inch SSDs for your particular case. They will sound great and get loud for under $400 which is what you want according to your first post. With the stock 160 amp alt and the big 3 you could quite possibly be alright as far as electrical. If not you could always add another battery or two for a couple hundred buckss. The SSDs would also be favorable if you have to purchase a new amplifier a nice 1500w amp could be sufficiently cheaper than a 2000w amp.

First thing I would do is decide on a different car. That is a girls car.

it just does not seem remotely impressive to me. seeing that i have built two cars that can do that. for a fraction of the price. That did 150.3ish at 25hz. 155.xx@42 meter on dash one door open both scores were with a single rd [email protected] volt. he had around $2500 into that whole setup 2 btls, 1 5750, 6 batteries, wall, and 150ft of 1/0

I heard it was the GHEY part... But that's just what I heard...

Pay someone local who knows what they are doing to pinpoint the problem with you system. It isn't woofer(s).

you just ruined my day. thats what i started off with. A buddy had a little Geo, I had two Audiobahn 15's sealed... before I knew any better... then I got Ascendant Audio Avalanche 15's and I wanted to wall off his Geo at 20Hz. He wouldnt sell, so i found a Hyundai Accent GT. The motor blew before I could get the wall done. mach up of the wall to be: skeleton had a LONG way to go the avalanches was to be run off Pete "HexiBase" Kuliki's two XX-Colossus

did a 151.4 @25hz with 4 SSA ICON 15's on two Ap30001d's. 5 batteries, one stock alt, and one 120amp alt. In 94 Geo Metro. so around....... around 2k in equipment including the car

Please do not encourage him!

Haha a "loooooooong" time ago lol Dang, I heard. My mom is telling me about people she cuts hair for, about how they're losing their jobs, or not making as much as they used to. And my dad, well, he's doing fine but he doesn't live with us, he lives up north. I don't want to waste money on a technical school, just read an article or two about it. 30,000$ for intuition when I can get grants, and financial aid for UoP for half the price. Calculus 4 scares me..

I'm looking towards mechanical engineering also.. My dad always wanted me to do this, and I've been saying I'll do it someday since I was about 6. I'll just get help when I need it. Good luck to ya'll, hope this economy gets better.. http://www.usdebtclock.org/ ^^^^ Scary!

Just looking at Calculus 4 makes me want to change my major, I guess I'll see whats out there. Anyone want to share what they're majoring, or have majored in?

There is no calculus 4, you take calc 1, 2, 3 and then DiffEQ. Engineering is ridiculous...kicks my butt. Haha, oh. I didn't know, but I'll let you tell me, I was just reading their curriculum. http://www.seas.upenn.edu/undergraduate/degrees/maj-mechanical.php

Hey guys, I'm just trying to see if anyone has any experience in these fields. I'm fixing to graduate in a few months, and I don't think I'll be going to community college, but if I do, I'll be focusing toward Electrical Engineering. I've loved working on cars for as long as I can remember, but my family disagree's with my choice, due to hard labor and that they only make so-so amounts of money. After researching for a while, average first couple years a technicion makes around 35,000$, Electrical Engineering average starts off around 55,000$. Thats close to a 20,000$ gain. Do you think it is worth it to, go to a technical school? ex; Wyotech, UTI, SAM Houston? I'm planning on going to University of Pennsylvania, my dad will be helping me pay for intuition. I've read what we'll be learning, and I have no idea how to do calculus so far, because I haven't taken it yet. If anything, I'm just wondering if anyone can give me some heads up on other majors. I don't know what else is out there, except for small things. Thanks guys, just wanting to see what I can do later in life.

Thanks. I've been telling him, just hook up the other speakers to the amp, but he doesn't want to deal with the wires.

Well than, we might be able to work something out! I'll talk to him about it

Who! What a nice price! Alrighty, I think I'll go ahead and call him now

My friend was looking at simply buying one of these in order to recieve "more" power to his speakers. He has a 4 channel Polk Audio amp in the back, that is running a 12 bridged off of two channels, and the other 2 channels are hooked onto some random 6x9's he has. The amp is 800 watts x 4 channels at 4 ohms. I told him, that I have a amp he could buy for the sub itself, and use the amp for his front and rear stages. He has a H/O Alt on a 1988 Camaro with a red-top ultima battery. Do you think it would be worth spending about a hundred and twenty dollars to buy this "power brick"? Or to just simply use his 4 channel amp. http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ktp-445 Thanks

And I was wodnering if anyone had any experience or pesonal opinion with the HD TUA-T550HD? http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/tua-t550hd I'm also looking for one of these, thanks guys