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I was wondering where to get my protein for our here on my deployment back in June. I contacted TrueProtein.com and got some great deals. Guys all I ask is you check them out. Their prices are VERY competitive and unlike alot of the 'big box' supplement makers, when you order 5 lbs of Protein with Chocolate flavor, you get 5 lbs of protein, THEN they add in the cholcolate flavor. This give your more protein for your dollar. Use Discount code JNR490 to save 5% off your entire order and 10% if you order over 16 lbs. Again all I ask is you check it out. The site may not be 'flashy as hell' but in the world of fitness when did shiny become a requirement? J

so the time has come to start my build log, 02 Monte Carlo SS with 4 15" F.I. BTL N2's with 2 sundown 4500's and the 100.4 for all the mids, 4 infinity kappa 6x9's and 2 6 3/4" kappas in the door powered by Mechman H.O. alt with 5 XS Power 14v batteries,Pioneer AVH-p5200bt and a shit ton of 0 gauge wire ( yes in ky that is an actual measurement) also have the viper 5902 Tear down starts FEB 8th, will keep pictures updated as progress continues. Here are a few pics of everything im using,

bromo was making free designs for some time. I was happy to have him design mine. He still does, but for some money. If you are good at something, have free time and like to help, why not.

Please do NOT bring issues from other forums here.

they delete any thread that has no pictures. simple as that, they dont care reason, or even if u say give me an hour ill up load them. they have an attachments option. click it and click upload, find ur picture, click insert inline. bam. or go to imageshak.us and click upload, find ur picture on ur computer. then u got 2 choices. click the part that says share on a forum, copy and paste that in ur thread, or copy the pictures URL and when u make ur thread, click insert picture and paste the picture's URL in the box that pops up.

Why are these so high? Are there speakers behind the upper mesh? They are electrostatic http://www.martinlogan.com/products/purity more info here http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/question713.htm

Alright so from what i read on the link, it means there is a red light that is inside the housing, and when switched on it will shine red. But i am guessing with HID's on also, the light will not be visible, more just for crusing parking lots, things to that affect where not having lights on will be a big concern. But the Halo appears to be almost a light blue, or white with a tint of blue. I would ask some local cops what the law states as far as that goes, here in AZ i have been told that if the lights have a base of white, no matter what other color they are they are normally good to go, depends on the cop and how they are felling really. But every state is different, try and ask around or search the Michigan law books. Just dont want you to buy them and then be assed out because you got a ticket and had to remove them. Again best of luck!! If i can help in anyway please feel free to ask!

If going for the menacing look the red projector is gonna fit best. But be really careful when and where you show them, depending on how bright they are, it is VERY illegal to have a red or true blue forward facing on a vehicle. They are reserved for emergency vehicles only, now getting past my public service announcement. Does the red projectors shine red, or are just hinted with the color? If they shine red, they will be very dim and useless when driving. But best of luck, i wish i carried stuff for bikes, i would be able to assist further in your parts search. Best of luck!

Here is an up skirt shot, and pay no attention to the drywall patching. I needed to ground all the outlets in the place.

The twins

Oh Snap!

Nope I havent used there coaxials but use there mids in some active setups I have had and loved them. Talk to sefugi (member here on forum), he used them in his sons build: Sefugi Build Log

Never mix sub woofers sizes, it causes lots of issues. The fact that you would even consider this shows you need to learn a little more before dropping that kind of money on woofers.

Aaron's Mazda.

This brings up topics I'd hope we'd get into in this thread: sound deadening materials in an SPL setup and matching the treatment to the goals. Let's start with extreme SPL. Introducing high pressures into a vehicle exceeds the manufacturer's design. Something has to give to relieve the pressure. The exact path will be the one with the least resistance. Could be an air leak, could be sheet metal displacement or deformation or most impressively to some, the glass may break. Because of rules and habit, the traditional reaction has been to start layering on vibration damper. This might help or it might hurt - we've all seen posts describing small gains or small losses. There's no predictable outcome. How can this be? I can think of two possible mechanisms that could increase SPL: the vibration damper seals air leaks or it adds a small amount of reinforcement to the sheet metal. It's pretty easy to see that both outcomes are inappropriate applications for vibration damper. It's easier to see how vibration damper can lower scores since that's basically what it is designed to do. Vibration dampers work by converting vibration - which can become measurable sound, into heat - which can't. Even if a vibration damper application increases overall pressures, it does so in spite of converting at least some of the available energy into an unusable form. To predictably improve a vehicle's capacity to hold pressure, seal leaks and brace panels in a way that doesn't bring an offsetting conversion of energy to the party. Now let's suppose you don't care about numbers on a meter, you like your music loud and you just want to stop your roof from flapping around. The basic solution is still the same: mechanically reinforce it. Vibration damper is an inefficient solution to gross movement. If you use a bracing method that subdivides the roof - metal or wooden "beams" for example, you'll gain something else in the process, you will have divided the roof into smaller panels. Each smaller panel will have a higher resonant frequency that the entire roof did. Vibration dampers are more effective in this range. You'll be able to use less if you are trying to quiet things down and if it's a combination SPL competition vehicle and daily driver, you'll lose less energy to heat.

Here's pics of the enclosure. As you can see it was tiny.

I had my 2 12"s in 1.2ft^3 each after displacement. Power ranged from 500 - 1400 watts to the pair. I loved them here is my review on them. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/25213-12-flatlyne-review/

Nicee!

personally i think nick is wrong on the soft parts not being fragile in the cold..... for example i just reconed my BL 18's not even a month ago and was slamming on them and it was in the single digits outside and even below 0 sometimes and i cracked one of my spiders.. Nick tries saying it was cause i was playin below tuning and blah blah blah subsonic filter needs to be set higher yada yada yada when i dont EVEN play low shit on my system especially nothing below 30hz thats for damn sure.... of course thou its never the manufactures fault always the consumers... since ive owned the BL's before i reconed them for over 2 years with NO issues...