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My guess is that is not a good sub. Look harder, it has 8 mm of xmax. Aside from that I'm sure the 96 dB sensitivity isn't 1w/1m, its 2.83v. If the rating is 2.83v @ 2 ohms (coils in parallel) then the actual 1w/1m sensitivity is 90 dB, average for an ordinary 12. Also, 1150 RMS is probably a stretch on a $65 sub. A coil that will take that much power in that basket will probably cost $20 itself.

That woofer seems to be legitimate, as far as I can tell.

Здрасти.

Kid I want you to read what I write below 100x and think about it. Quit being hung up on Xbl2 style motors. Just take the suggestions, give what you have and move out. We will help you but fuck your making this shit retardedly difficult. SOUND QUALITY AND OUTPUT IS 90% INSTALL, 5% EQUIPMENT, AND 5% BEER. J

You can not school me on xbl^2 technology. Look at my forum, I am working with ADI at the moment building several lines. If you can expand my knowledge of xbl technology more than the man who invented it, the same person I have been working with over the past two years, be my guest. The point I was making is if you keep whatever sub you buy BELOW XMAX which is defined by 10 percent total harmonic distortion you will not have distortion. Does this mean sub A will be as loud as sub B. NO. But they will have the same amount of distortion or lack there of because that is what XMAX means. And there is no way a Shiva will take 1000 rms. The Pmax on that sub is 1000 watts, which I doubt you know is the thermal rating. That sub only needs 400- 500 watts in a proper enclosure with a QTC of .7 to reach xmax. If you put 1000 watts on that sub in a proper ported enclosure it would sound like complete arseho because the spider would be slamming into the topplate.

Distortion is not your problem, it's the person that is controling the volume knob that is the problem. If you take any driver on the market and keep it below xmax you will be below 10% distortion and you will not be able to tell what name brand driver it is, to a certain extent. Yes of course some will be cleaner at louder levels because they have a higher rated xmax, which by definition is 10% THD. You first need to decide how loud you want to get. Then choose what setup will fit that goal while under xmax ratings. Another thing you need to consider is your install skills. Anything is possible. Are you willing to modifiy the truck for bass?

What are teh choices? I'm posting on HAF too. The info should work to build that site. I just can't really check it from 5am-6pm as easily as I can here. I need a living room receiver to run HD material from HD tv and BRD media. The speakers are Martin Logan Purity. They have a built in amp and can literally be driven from RCA connection. I could get away with a Pre/Pro, usually though you get less for more money it seams, and you loose the versatility of having power if I ever changed speakers. This receiver will also probably handle 2nd zone duty. I want to use my main beastly rig (yam z7) for the other zone work however my wife is strongly against this for many reasons. They don't have to make sense, I just need to abide. The number one factor this receiver must fulfill is to be ipod compatable for the wife, network with our in house LAN, and have some form of useful room calibration. If it has something to help MP3's sound a bit better, then all the better. 90% of the casual listening will be some form of compressed audio. That won't change. Unless I'm alone and can crank the ML's and sit in the amazingly beautiful sweet spot, compressed audio works. We do watch HD concerts on BD or streamed though and also watch quite a few BRD movies. Marantz 7005. It right now is in the top of my list as it's the most gadgety. It doesn't quite seam as robust and the DAC is less audiophile than the bur brown integra, however I'm sure it can do the job and again, for now I don't need some monster amp. I can run the Logan's from RCA if I absolutely had to. It may also have instant ipod connection through USB and a nice compressed audio enhancer. Along with what sounds to be a great "night setting" and a setting to tame overly loud ads on TV, it has a whole list of cool conectivity and every day practical but perhaps gimiky toys to play with. Room calibration via auddysey's best. The pro system is available but only for "installers". There may be a work around. http://us.marantz.com/us/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=AVReceivers&SubCatId=&ProductId=SR7005 Integra 50.2 The middle of the road between the audio snob anthem and the tech geek Marantz. I know the silent cinema from my old integra and it man it works. All the excitement and voice clarity but none of the wife waking factor. Auddysey calibration, and maybe the pro software without being an installer. I'm waiting for confirmation on that. If the menu system is anything like the old integra style, though I loved it and installers love it, my wife will not. http://www.integrahometheater.com/model.cfm?m=DTR-50.2&class=Receiver&p=i Anthem MRX 500 (it looks like the 700 wouldn't get me much more but beefier power that I don't need). Audiophile name, suposidly the ARC calibration system is the BALLS, and I have it on hand as a loaner so I will check it out. From what I've read, the system may be amazing but it doesn't allow the user to EQ the system themselves. If so then it's a load of crap IMHO. On paper the integra outweighs it, and the 500 looks to be the least developed in tech. But it held it's own on a set a 'digms next to a Rotel dedicated amp and I still don't really need some over amped beast. http://www.anthemav.com/products/anthem/a-v-receiver/mrx-500 Onkyo, dennon, and yamaha all look to be on the fence untill you're in the $2k category. Even then I'm not impressed. I originally put payment on the Integra 70.2, but other than some specs I don't need and a video chipset that won't get worked as I don't watch standard def on that system I started looking at other options. I'm open to anything that will solve my problem that is a networking rig that my wife will use. If anyone has a tip on another brand or rig let me know. otherwise give me your 2 cents.

I am asking the thermal capacity with the 4 inch. I know how to run over RMS. I've been hearing a lot about needing to run BTL's over their RMS to reach their full potential and I don't wanna run over 5k. If you were asking thermal capacity then you should have stated that in your original post. Vague questions get vague answers. Actually, everyone knows how to run over RMS but not everyone knows how to keep a subwoofer from blowing when they run it over rms. *Edit to add*: As far as hearing that BTL's need over the rating to reach full potential is a load of crap. People overpower BTL's because everyone does it on youtube which makes people think that they can do that as well all day everyday. Then when they overpower the BTL they are all mad because they thought the BTL could take it all then proceed to blame the manufacturer.

Thanks guys. Full welded and polished the top of the spring pocket so I could get started on the new upper ears. It's got to be nice a crisp. Used 1/4" plate for these. Got the outer tabs done on the other side so I could pull the jig and plate the crossmember. Cleaned up the edges before plating. I didn't get too far on this, should get it done tomorrow.

Okay then: Put on 20 miles "testing" it

This should be a great help to you. If these do not fit your vehicle give Bromo a pm or check my sig for his link.

bromo was making free designs for some time. I was happy to have him design mine. He still does, but for some money. If you are good at something, have free time and like to help, why not.

go here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/downloads/frontpage/1.html?category_id=0 searching is your best friend

I know I have a big smile.

2 15" xcons sealed + 6cf enclosure = you with a big smile.

2.-2.75ft^3 @ 33hz 37/38" port

I've been watching this build and rebuild from the UK for a while now and he is using the JBL products. Very long thread but an interesting read: http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107691