Leaderboard

Here we go the final stage of the doors. Before you tackle a project like this it's good to have all your nuts and bolts ready to go. I recommend a stash of 8-32s, 10-32s, and some 1/4-20 bolts. For the smaller sizes I recommend starting off with 1" long fully threaded. That way you can cut them to the length you need. The 1/4-20 I buy 1" and 3" fully threaded. Usually the Home Depot has the 3" fully threaded mixed with the partially threaded. Keep an eye out for these. Here is a pic of my 8-32 box. This is the door prepped. You can see the mounting points and the hack cut job I did for the upper mid-bass. o_o Here is the base mounted up in place. I'm using a couple of flat head screws since one of them will be under the actual mounting of the speaker and the second because I got carried away and counter sunk the wrong hole first time around. Three of the four screws hold down the base. The fourth upper screw will hold down both the base and the intermediate base. The screws holding down the upper mid-bass ( 2" long 8-32s) will go through the intermediate base and thread into the inserts in the base. The first driver in place. A little close up action of the hardware. I went over board and used some lock washers under the 8-32s holding the mid-bass down. Here is the intermediate base installed, currently held in place by the upper 1/4-20 bolt. Before I get the upper mid-bass in I have to take care of this little gap. First a little foil paper. And a generous serving of 200mph duct tap. Fixed! In my best Walter Sobchak voice: "Our f%ck!n’ troubles are over Dude." Mid-bass installed. Bam! Driver side door finished. Passenger side door. Effing progress man!

You can get a brand new one shipped for $250 from summit racing. SSA > summit