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Not should, will have your alternator next week.. I completely understand how you feel, believe me.. Remember, I've been in (and still AM in your shoes) as a customer, only difference is you spent $320 for an alternator with us, where we've spent $20-$30k and are still waiting on parts that are weeks/months behind schedule from our vendors.. I wear the exact same shoe bro, we're just higher up the food chain and where your waiting for one *single* item for you, we're waiting for *hundreds* of that one *single* item that may have a hundred people waiting.. Trust me, if anyone feels your pain and knows how you feel, it's me. Frankly, I don't freaking like it not only for myself personally, but In my case it effects multiple people (such as you) and I really, really dont like people waiting when it's a result of me waiting on someone else. It's bad, very, VERY bad for business....

I remember when I thought I was cool runnin my w7.. Then I heard this kid's fi ssd 12 and I was like holy momma thats nice.. never heard of that.. And looked it up and eventually ended up on ssa.com and havin a sundown amp and a fi sub.. Lol. I hate when kids are like LOL sundown.. what is sundown, that must be crap.. and what the heck is "fi" is that an off brand.. ( I cant wait to get my 18" xcon.. then they will be like "LOL what's a "SSA"?? " then I'll slap the crap outta their face and they will be like "Oh.. so that's an SSA XCON"

Here we go the final stage of the doors. Before you tackle a project like this it's good to have all your nuts and bolts ready to go. I recommend a stash of 8-32s, 10-32s, and some 1/4-20 bolts. For the smaller sizes I recommend starting off with 1" long fully threaded. That way you can cut them to the length you need. The 1/4-20 I buy 1" and 3" fully threaded. Usually the Home Depot has the 3" fully threaded mixed with the partially threaded. Keep an eye out for these. Here is a pic of my 8-32 box. This is the door prepped. You can see the mounting points and the hack cut job I did for the upper mid-bass. o_o Here is the base mounted up in place. I'm using a couple of flat head screws since one of them will be under the actual mounting of the speaker and the second because I got carried away and counter sunk the wrong hole first time around. Three of the four screws hold down the base. The fourth upper screw will hold down both the base and the intermediate base. The screws holding down the upper mid-bass ( 2" long 8-32s) will go through the intermediate base and thread into the inserts in the base. The first driver in place. A little close up action of the hardware. I went over board and used some lock washers under the 8-32s holding the mid-bass down. Here is the intermediate base installed, currently held in place by the upper 1/4-20 bolt. Before I get the upper mid-bass in I have to take care of this little gap. First a little foil paper. And a generous serving of 200mph duct tap. Fixed! In my best Walter Sobchak voice: "Our f%ck!n’ troubles are over Dude." Mid-bass installed. Bam! Driver side door finished. Passenger side door. Effing progress man!

Thanks for all the support fellas. For those wondering about that crazy rivet tool I used here is some info. I picked it up from Harbor Freight. The tool itself kicks @ss. The included rivnuts, not so much. I picked up better ones from Mc Master Carr. Sorry no links for those since the Mc Master Carr site is flash or something like it so direct links don"t work. Any who, here are some links. Threaded Rivet Tool Here are the Mc Master Carr part numbers for the ones I use. Thread size 8-32 P/N 95105A123 Thread size 10-24 P/N 95105A127 Thread size 1/4-20 P/N 95105A143 Just plug in these part numbers into their search line and it'll take you directly to them.

I'm running 2 isoberic driver kits out of 2 seperate (identical) enclosures off of one amp ... no problems ... I do not understand why you would have 2 different enclsoures (different sizes and different tuning frequiencies) ??? one for the lows and one for the highs

Hey Steve, Don't fill bad bro I can only pull a 136.5 sealed on the dash with car running with a single 12 inch sub and 500 rms at 36 hz.... I'm not doing so good either....

On music by the way.. if I burp all I can get is 137.00 sealed on the dash with car on and 37 hz....

Who said it's fine to run two subs in two different boxes? You need slapping.