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187 Series 10 Sealed .5 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported 1.4 cubes - 2 cubes, 15 - 20 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 12 Sealed 1.0 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 2 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 30 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz 187 Series 15 Sealed 1.4 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 2.5 cubes - 3.5 cubes, 30 - 45 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 10 Sealed .6 cubes - 1.0 cubes Ported .9 cubes - 1.5 cubes, 12 - 25 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 1.25 cubes, 18 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 12 Sealed .8 cubes - 1.4 cubes Ported 1.75 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 25 - 40 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 2.00 cubes, 30 inches, 28-35 Hz Lethal Injection Series 15 Sealed 1.5 cubes - 2.0 cubes Ported 3.0 cubes - 4 cubes, 40 - 60 Inches of Port, 28-35 Hz Average: 3.5 cubes, 50 inches, 28-35 Hz Death Row Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 2.5 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.20 cubes, 32 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 2.75 cubes - 4.0 cubes, 36 - 64 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 3.25 cubes, 50 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Row Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 8.0 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Death Penalty Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 12 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 1.8 cubes - 3.0 cubes, 20 - 48 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 2.5 cubes, 35 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 15 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 3.0 cubes - 5.0 cubes, 36 - 80 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 4.0 cubes, 55 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 18 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 5.0 cubes - 7.5 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz Warden Series 21 Sealed Not Recommended Ported 7.5 cubes - 10.0 cubes, 90 - 160 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz Average: 8.5 cubes, 120 inches, 32-37 Hz

Finally I got to do some real custom work again, seems like it's been forever. This customer is a great guy who loves to try out new speakers and gear all the time. He comes back regularly just to change things up a bit. This time, he wanted to take the kickpod plunge with his brand new Hybrid L3SE's and rework the door speaker position a bit. Since he does change drivers often, we had to make the door pods very user friendly so that he could. Here we go. Stackin templates to relocate the speaker location. Now, one shape. All the rings stacked up. You can see the countersinking set that is screwed into the base is removable to allow for the trim panel design. We cut the factory grill to use it for it's shape. We applied some UPOL over the whole surface and over the edge to get rid of the area where the factory plastic and grill roll into eachother. All done, ready for vinyl. On to the kicks These connectors take up a lot of space in the kicks. Which just will not do So, we removed them from their plastic container, cut away a small section of the a-frame and tucked the connectors inside. This gave us atleast another 1 1/2" behind the factory plastic kickpanel. Here, you can see the shape of the future kickpod cut out of the plastic. I really prefer to do pods as and add-on, instead of building onto the factory plastic. Same thing for the passenger side, except much more room over there. Cutting the same shape out of each side allows us to use templates! So, we were able to build almost the entire kickpod out of MDF, outside the vehicle. Next, we added a 1/2" trim ring to the shape, which gave us a 1/4" overlap all the way around to cover up the cut. And the speaker ring goes in place, checking for fitment. A little fiberglass getting some sun. All the pods almost completely wrapped up. We couldn't find a match for color and grain, so we matched grain and we'll dye it for color. Here is the speaker baffle and the door panel installed. Now the trim panel goes on. And of course the speakers. And here are some finished pics. These are some custom sail panels we made for his Hybrid L1R2's previously. What do you guys think?

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good. And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad. This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing. I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades. What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.) with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe. What's low voltage? Below 12 volts? Below 11volts? I ran a 1500d between 12-14.5 volts, and mine always ran "warm" after any real long length of time(10 mins or more of hard playing). I don't see how going from 12 volts to 14volts is going to change the temptature. If anything, I would think it would get hotter because its putting out more power? Nope When voltage drops more amps have to be pulled to produce the same amount of power at the same volume. lets just say you're producing 1500 watts at optimal levels.. at 14 volts you would only need 107A to produce the 1500 watts, but to produce the same 1500 watts at 12v you would need 125A.. You create more heat by pulling more amperage.

Anytime. I try to share what I know as much as possible. I've learned a lot over the last few years by just checking out other peoples build ups. Sometimes all it takes is a few good pics to make the light bulb turn on and better understand how to do something you though would never be possible. Getting closer... Trimmed the base roughly to size and bonded the baffles on using Tigerhair body filler to hold them in place for the next step.I roughed up the surface with a 36 grit disc for good adhesion. I was in a hurry to get some foam poured tonight so I did get the pics of the prep work for the foam. Here is one side very close to being ready for final layer of glass. I'm trying to make them look like they belong there. None of that stretched fleece look going on here.

Time For GOOD NEWS.. I Finally got the new alt installed, My friends dad just finished putting it in about 30mins ago. Dude its so legit!! Its way too dark to take any pics of it installed so i'll try to take some tomorrow or the next day. I dont have any in-progress pics, because I wasnt there during the install of it. So before it was installed it would start at about 12.7 and while driving it would go down to 12.3 with music OFF. Then if I cranked it.. lets just say I could get low enough for the stinger voltmeter to say "Low" .. which is like less than 10.. ( only happened once.. I was testing the meter and cranked my system lol. NOW WITH THE NEW ALT.. When I start it, it runs at 14.5v and stays 14.5 while driving with music OFF. If I crank the music while drivin around the lowest it ever got was 13.2.. but normally lowest was 13.6. THIS IS SO AWESOME!! Thanks DC POWER!!!!! This thing is a beast, I mean cranking it and staying around 14v~ is SOOO awesome and now I never have to worry about turning it down because It wouldnt even go below 13.2v

why would you waste such a beautiful enclosure on such a GAY SUB! did I mention that I HATEEEEEEEE KICKER!

Sorry for the shit picture, hopefully you see what i am saying.