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Did a bit of tidying up, moved the amp from the trunk to the folding seats, bought an el-cheapo wiring kit from wallyworld. My Two dekas Preeeety. Jacob makes some sexy amps :wub:

Jesus Christ dude.

I don't know what kind of area the OP or swagger is from but if they're home towns are like mine there's not a good place at all for a person to go and listen to anything other than the bottom line equipment from any company. Now "Crap" may have been a little strong a word, but locally the only items available are generally the lowest end offerings from any of the brands available, and as I said the only thing you're going to listen to them in is the demo wall which I'm pretty sure you yourself have mentioned is useless, I think. (<- I could very well be wrong there and remembering someone else saying that.) I've heard the offerings around here both in (close to) proper installations and in less than optimal situations and they don't impress me at all. As you mentioned to reach the very low price points they sell at there's so many compromises that it's hard to expect them to do very well for everything they're giving up. Sure some of the dealers here can ORDER the higher end components from these companies, but they're not in stock nor are then installed in anything if they are. If a person isn't afraid of trying something they can't listen to and is able to accept the fact that they're going to lose some money installing, trying and selling a product that didn't work out to try something else then why argue with them about doing it. For some of us there's just no better option since we don't want to settle for the less than stellar performance of the items we were able to listen to. The ONE and only time I was actually able to listen to a half way decent component set with a decent installation from a local retailer was very nice, but really the only time it's ever happened. I also gave no recommendation on anything, only listed some of the items I've purchased only on the recommendation of others. You're very right, no one has asked him how he intends to install them or made recommendations to him on making sure he no matter what he buys that he pays the most attention to the installation. You're right also that it's simply not mentioned enough in any thread about components, front stages or anything else of the like. Perhaps we need to revisit the core of the problem, as you identified it, and ask what he HAS listened to and why he didn't like them or at least why he's not considering them and try to help from there. Believe me I know how you and Brad feel about listening to something before buying it, but some of us may have to travel several hours one way just to be able to listen to something above the offerings at our local dealers. On a low budget or not that's quite inconvenient.

No matter what sub you choose, if there was a dip in response between the sub and components you can always tweak it back in with the EQ in your HU. Even the cheap Pioneers have the ability to pick the frequency the "Bass" adjustment on the EQ centers at and the "Q" or how wide a set of frequencies it affects. The choice seems simple to me, which would be the one that sounds the best doing what it was intended to do, reproduce sub-bass frequencies. Dips or peaks in response can be dealt with easily enough. Have you even listened to or installed the components yet? Even though they're 5.25's they may just surprise you. Do you have any sound deadening installed or the components installed in a good solid baffle? Installation makes or breaks any setup and you should really concentrate on the installation of the components first, then decide and execute your sub purchase and installation accordingly. IMO a DCON will cover what you need wonderfully and if you're dead set against one the 187 will also do nicely. I agree with the others that the AQ isn't the best choice.

Here you go

If you cross anything over at 80Hz you will not have midbass. As for what the driver can do, the last one I'd pick is the AQ crap. Their design offering is meant to appeal to someone who likes output only and has no regard for quality. By definition this will be a peaky driver that doesn't do well either low OR high, but has a tuning that makes a boom at very small range of notes. I wouldn't even bother listening to them. A subset of one with nothing to compare will teach you nothing. IMO the SDC is a driver that I flat out don't understand why anyone would buy. The response is a complete joke, the companies marketing is complete BS, and for the same dollars there are better solutions no matter what your goals. In your case in particular I think it is a bad choice. Of course, that being said. The install will make or break it, but why handicap yourself with an AQ to begin with?

I'm still trying to understand how you get a 1 ohm load in parallel on a sub that also wires to 2 ohms in series? If it's a D1 coil then when in series yes, it's a 2 ohm load but in parallel it's a .5 ohm nominal load. To me, a .5 ohm nominal load on an amp that's only rated for 2 ohms in the first place is going to have major issues which can cause loss of cone control and severe clipping to start. I am probably missing something here.... but that's how I see it.

amazing Ken... you're def taking alot of time doing this and it is much appreciated... Need some more "bendable" wiring as my Welding Wire 1/0 isn't making it easy to move things around...

Hey everyone thanks for waiting this out for so long. The reason it took me so long to get part 2 of 3 of this review up is Canada post was on strike for a good month and you can imagine the mess that made! At any rate here we go with part 2 of 3. I will be reviewing these brands in the same fashion as I did previously. Here are the 7 brands Audiopipe - Supplied by sacsking916 on CA.com Bullz Audio - Supplied by J@SouthSlap on SSA.com IXOS - Supplied by Fusetrapper on ebay.com Kicker - Supplied by Audio4ever on CA.com Mobilespec - Supplied by yet again Audio4ever on CA.com Flex-A-Prene Welding Wire - Supplied by faizal_jamal on ebay.com Shoc OFC (current discontinued) - Supplied by siccostyle's I would first like to say thankyou to everyone who donated wire to me and or made it very cheap for me to purchase. If you notice I said this is part 2 of 3. Part 3 of 3 will consist of 3 brands, IXOS, KNU KOL, Monster being load tested with a clamp meter and a carbon pile load tester of about max ~500 amps, This will be a two man event more on that later. Now onto the info! Subjective review 14. Flex-A-Prene Welding wire wasn't to easy to flex and bend but it was do-able, one thing worthy of mention is there was a cardboard liner on the inside of the jacket it made a cool noise when I cut it. also I noticed that these strands were a lot thicker and were straight. The price on this wire which I found on ebay which was being sold as fork truck/ welding wire was quite reasonable and down to earth, the only down side to it was it had the least conductor OD of all the wires viewed today. 15. Audiopipe, this wire was difficult to bend, and the cost was very cheap! The price I found was on ebay and it came to 1.54$ per foot, but worthy to say the conductor OD was on the average size so this will get an average rating although I suspect this from CCA wiring 16. Bullz Audio was another one of those super hard ones to bend but it was also the cheapest wire I was able to find, with the cost being 1.06$, and Conduct OD was also average on it. 17. IXOS, is the next on the chopping block. This wire is what some would call the holy grail, or rather an infamous wire as it was the most expensive wire I have reviewed. The bend-a-bily of this wire was extremely easy to bend and offered little resistance, and yet again the conductor OD was yet again average. 18. Kicker, yet again another fan favorite, this one was also very easy to bend and the conductor OD was above average here. the only down side was the price tag. 19. Mobilespec, a brand I personally haven't heard of and it was a bit hard to find a price tag on this wire but I eventually did and I got 3.7$, which is a bit high, the bendy-ness of this wire was horrid and the conductor OD was under the average overall this wire wouldn't be my favorite pic. 20. And last but not least Shoc Competition OFC wiring. This wire was very easy to beind and one of my favorites to bend! The price is unknown as it is currently discontinued from what I can tell, and it has the average conductor OD of the wires viewed today. and to wrap it up have a quick look at this! Well this has been a long and drawn out subjective review filled with lots of pictures, I hope you all have enjoyed it and I would like to give my subjective top picks and my closing thoughts at this time. Out of all the wire I was able to play around with my favorite pic from the OFC side of wires was a tie between Knu KOL, IXOS, Flex-A-Prene. These wires will always get my nod of approval because they are easy to bend and they don't cost that much, along with a nice amount of copper in them to support a fair amount of current flow. Any of those three listed above would/ should be able to suit anyone needs. My top picks for CCA wiring would have to be Cadence and KNU KCA. Both of those wires showed great amounts of CCA in them and very flexible to bend around a tight corner! Again I have never used CCA wiring before but if I ever had to or wanted to switch I would most definitively pick one of those two. Here is the original for comparison Not So subjective review Just like last time I gut a 6inch section from each brand and cut the jacket off to reveal just the copper and I weighted that copper and displayed my findings. Based off of my findings with the tobacco sale I would have to pick either KNU KOL, Kicker, RF wiring and IXOS , as they all showed a lot of copper content. But based on price and copper content I would have to pick KNU KOL over all the brands and a close runner up would have to be the welding wire. I would have picked Kicker or RF or IXOS but their pricing is a bit high as compared to KNU or even Welding wire which is an excellent runner up for its 3-3.5$ price range. Also please note that since I did this review KNU has raised there price of the KOL wiring and it is still a better value! So with this I would like to conclude and say I had a lot of fun doing these reviews a I have learned a lot about 1/0 and how companies will all vary but please keep in mind that the Conductor Diameter of 1/0 wiring should be around 0.325" as per the standards I have read on the web and all of the wires are over this standard. ( http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm ) Again I hope you all have enjoyed reading this and maybe learned a little bit along the road! Please feel free to post comments, questions or maybe even ask for a little bit of clarification on certain points I have touched on that weren't fully understood. Like always if you would like to see some more pictures of anything close up or a different angle please just drop me a p/m and I will be glad to help. Enjoy your day and week Kenneth

Keep reading here on the forum and saving $

i believe i have 1/8" copper, should be fine. ** side note: i've cleaned up the electrical tape you see all over those terminals. Had to order some shrink wrap and that's the best i could do at the time. And added a couple grounds, which are all black cable **

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Did a wee bit of work today Uh-oh... good thing it was cheap.. Ended up soldering the rest.

Well from what I was told from ppl who have the SDC is that the SDC can be crossed over higher. A lot higher than 80hz (which is apparently high for the 187) and can cover some of the mid bass that will be missing from the 5.25 speakers I'll have. I mean I'm basically looking into the SDC bc im told it can play higher (into midbass territory) than the average subwoofer, where most will roll off or sound to quiet. I'm getting it to cover up the gap in sound I wont have/will be lacking. Thats the main reason. Can the 187 do this? B/c from what I hear it can, but not as well as the SDC. Keep in mind all my sound will be coming from 5.25 components. Part of the problem here is that generally people who buy SDC's don't know what they are doing in the first place and all of them seem to blindly recommend what they have. "A lot" higher crossover point can be had on many subs. Hell the Aura NS12 plays really nice nearly to 1kHz in the right enclosure although it'll beam like crazy that high. You will also see me recommend a ton of 8" subs to be used as midbasses and not subs since IMO they are better geared for that in the first place. Its already been said here, but the real problem with the people you are getting advice from is that they don't know the difference between a high tuning and high frequency roll off. Again, you should take a step back and describe your need a little better...and that shouldn't come from things you've read but what your ears tell you. Should be rather easy to figure out as well. Listen to your mids and determine where the roll-off is that you want to reinforce. Once you know that choosing a driver and alignment will be easier.

frame work and sides are done for the most part...... the fleece was applied with a mild spray adhesive and when i began to saturate it with resin it failed..... literally about felled on on me..... ( dry sense of humour) .... so i battled to get it to stay for a while and then removed it all with the ol razor knife before it cured all the way... $10 for resin, $2 for fleece, $5 bucks for spray adhesive, head rush from vapors.............priceless I will have to change my approach on rear wall... tomorrow might run some wires and clean on her a bit...not much planned till we go shopping again.

Are you getting another type of dustcap made or is that what you will be using? They look like shit. Just an opinion. The nav is badass looking though.

nice thats what i was thinking lol but 4real does any 1 no what these run these days

i can get it for 110 bucks

ok cool

what would you guys pay for a good working Kicker KX 800.2 thanx

so r u telling me ur alt only puts out 12v?

He hasn't mentioned anything about tweaking crossovers in both cases though. See now? hmmm, either way I don't know