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Just buy a better set of comps for the front stage. Forget the rear speakers, that will leave you more money for the front ones. (you will need only a 2 ch amplifier). If you're set on Alpine, try the type R or even X.

There is very limited room in the back of those trucks. We use one as a demo truck. If you run 3 behind the back seat you will have to go pretty high to get the correct net volume which will cause loading issues. As for your idea, it will not operate correctly at all. You should do some reading on what are some better options then what you are attempting. Personally I would get another D4 15 and run all three subs to a 2.66 load and snag a second amp and master/slave them. That would net a better overall result over what you are trying now. While our insight is not being used here(you are doing to do it anyway), please tell me that the 3rd 15 is in its own enclosure in no way sharing space/port area with the other subs? If it is, you will find yourself with worse results then doing it the "correct" way if there is such a way as correct for this situation.

Damn my ass is dragging today!

I finally have time to work on this. This is a sealed box to help find the resonant frequency of the cobalt. It will also be more of a "daily" box. I also purchased a Zed Leviathan to replace the Draconia and Miniliths. Channels 5&6 will be used for the Xcons when the big amp isn't installed.

Please just remember that the driver RMS isn't a requirement, in fact it has nothing to do whatsover in how much power you may need...

looks very nice, how did you do that ? its carbon fiber but how did you stretch it and fit it and get it hard? not sking for all your tricks. but looks sexy... the SSA will stand out like a champ too on the dash, its perfect for that car

You could do that if the 3rd is in its own enclosure but it would be completely stupid. No other way to say it.

I believe it has a help section. If not, search the forum / Google.

I know the wall added some weight to the car, but I think you'll find that as time goes on, the car will gradually start getting lighter and lighter as body panels, nuts & bolts fall off.

Tim shoot me your address and I can take a trip down to your house with my termlab and we can mess around with it this weekend.

The APs vent out into the fenderwell.

Not saying to name it that, but figured if I didn't quote it, you wouldn't watch.

i have to say......... the car is 160.... that mic is off the one from sunday... i wish i would have brought my termlab. to prove that steves build have achieved the 160 if your in the area again stop by and grab the tl.

Tuning is preference based, generally based on misconceptions as to what is best for daily, so I won't suggest much there. 10ft^3 is pretty big, so be sure you don't need the space. Volume = width * height * depth. Take into consideration the wood thickness. IE: using 0.75" MDF, and making a 12"x12"x12" box would be 12 - 0.75 - 0.75 = 10.5" 10.5"^3 = 1157.625 in^3 Divide 1157.625 by 1728 to get cubic feet. You end up with 0.669921875 ft^3 Don't forget about the displacement of an additional panel for "double baffle" if that's done, driver displacement, bracing displacement, and port displacement. Port area for a slot port is width * height, or 3.14*radius^2 if using an aero port. Port length will dictate the tuning, but it's also dependent on the enclosure volume, so if your off on the volume, then your tuning will be off as well. I would choose the amount of port area based on the port speed when modeled in a program such as WinISD. Too small port = port noise & possible reduction in output. Hopefully this gets you started, and others can chime in on other specifics such as how much port speed is acceptable, or how to calculate for port displacement. Don't be afraid to use the search function.

i didnt say i want to tune to 27 hz, but play 27 hz, (my box now is tuned at 32 and i can play that low. . .and i guess i dont want to sacrifice that much, and i brought them into a program and found that freq being played thats how i know (and i play sweeps) Read about Hoffman's Iron law: (http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=56), and you should have a better understanding why the idea of using a smaller enclosure in order to use more power in order to gain output is rather counterproductive. If your trying to save on space then perhaps you'd have some ground to stand on. As to the idea of playing frequencies well below the tuning of the enclosure, that's not exactly a hot idea. There is a reason why people use Subsonic filters / HPF for ported enclosures and the alike. Without a SSF, the speaker's excursion can dramatically increase when playing frequencies below the tuning of the enclosure. This can tear apart the soft parts of the driver if over-excursion occurs enough. Here's a picture: