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so pretty much i was planning on doing both my w7 10s on 2 jl 500/1s..... but things have changed. my buddy had bought a brand new zcon (which came last week) and due to a number of car robberies in his apartment area, he did not want a big system, just something small and stealthy. so we worked out a deal for one w7 and amp for his new zcon 18.... good shit lol. i then traded my other w7 10 for the ab vfl150.1. as for the box, im taking my box i had both my hcca 15s in (7.5 cubes tuned to 31hz) carpeting in black and putting a new face on it for 1 18. should get loud and loww here are a few pics of sub and amp. box should be done tomorrow. more pics to come

I didn't have much time to fool with it so I just took some quick pics with the iphone. For size reference, 18 inch basket and 10 inch basket Once I get it together and broke in I have to send it to Arizona to put on a Klippel analyzer to verify parameters and to do AES power rating on it.

Justin of Team SSA and Team Decent demoing his 4 SSA ZCON 18s. EDIT: Those are Crescendo BC5500Ds for power.... Enjoy.

you may have already burnt out the remote line then. Make sure the line hasn't come loose from the headunit. Besides that, you will have to tap off ignition wire from now on until you get a new headunit again.

Thats how I took it. Team member = Team pricing Maybe I am wrong. If you are about to lose a girl of 7yrs over car audio, getting better prices wont solve that. Might want to do some thinking on that one. Welcome and good luck!

happy birthday! lol wait

Throw the amp in a friends car and see if it works. I hope not, but that might explain the great deal you got.

Have you ever thought about firing into the cabin and sealing off your trunk?

Samsung pays 1 bil to Apple in 5 cent coins.

Are you going to cut them out all by yourself?

I know there is progress on this. They're holding out on u guys.

box is done and sub is installed hooking it all up tomorrow!! yess that is a fork lift thats when u know its getting serious hahahaha

talk to hugo, screen name of onebadmonte he has done a few IB set ups in his car,

I would caution against low-Q drivers for IB unless you have ample displacment availible. I say this because the lower the Q of the sub, the more it self dampens and the less output it has as you go lower in frequency without augmentation of some kind. In IB, the augmentation comes in the form of EQ, wich takes power. An exponential amount of power as frequency drops. When the driver has a higher Q, it doesn't self dampen as much as you go lower in frequency and requires less EQ on the bottom.

I spy an SI HT subwoofer. Excursion is reasonable at 20mm, which is of course important for IB just like sealed enclosures. Models nearly identical response wise to my Shiva-X, low-mid Q and low Fs. Looks good for IB in a vehicle to me. I dislike recommending specific products, but I believe AE also has the SBP4 which was designed to work well IB in a vehicle and generally John builds a very good subwoofer. No idea on cost though.

i just wanted to pop in and say.. guys.. lol ive built plenty of musical setups that will do 50s .. yes in the kick.. even have a 4dr impala with a trunk setup that has done just at a 50.8 in the kick with 2 15s and a rd d9.. tuned at 35hz daily beater.. most are walled cars. but i build 2-3 daily setups a month for people. i just dont have to much interest in building daily stuff for myself.. 12-15yrs ago i did.. and had it. im 33yrs old.. beating at the stop lights with my 3 kids in the car isnt a big deal to me lol i like building woofers,boxes..the mechanical side of this industry.. and testing and chasing scores. the tinkering with that is my attraction. so im sorry i compete in a spl burp class..and thats what i built for .. but it is what is and thats that..

Correct get a dual 2 to get a one ohm load. Depending on how much room you would be willing to sacrifice, I'd grab the 12 over the 10. Nice amp by the way.

Buy product that will work with in your means. That is what is wrong with the US is that we (as a country) want to live out side of what our means actually allow.

We were kind of thinking we were going to have minor glare problems with the low beams, but it works correctly ... We are either going to install glare caps or completely retrofit the low beams with projectors ... I'd like to do the expensive retrofit projector assembly, but I'm sure my wife / pocket book is only giong to let me install the glare caps ... I can get those out of a junk yard ...

It depends on what you mean by "most accurate". Distortion is higher with sealed/IB than a ported enclosure playing near tuning, although distortion is also much less audible in the subbass region. Transient response depends on where the final Qtc ends up being at, although generally the damping will be probably better than ported. One of the nice things is that pressure is much closer to even on both sides of the cone which can solve some linearity issues. I've ran IB for several years, haven't used an enclosure in years and have no desire to do so, except for a couple weeks last year which was just for shits n giggles. The space savings is simply phenomenal, sound is still very good and low end efficiency is improved. What do you have for an EQ? Home audio oriented IB subs such as the IB3 will end up being extremely bottom heavy when installed in a vehicle due to their high Qts and low Fs so the low end will always need tamed down. Likewise and especially in a small'ish trunk, they'll often experience an increased Qtc as well which may or may not bump it up beyond an acceptable level for your listening tastes due to their already high Qts. Personally I've had best luck with low-mid Qts and low Fs subs. My last IB sub was an Exodus Shiva-X with a Qts around .4 and Fs around 20hz. The bottom end was still strong and still needed EQ'd down a bit to be closer to flat, although I didn't mind the mildly heavy bottom end as it wasn't overbearing. Any sub can be ran "infinite baffle", you just have to be able to predict how it will respond and see how it matches your goals and/or if you have the EQ to fix response issues. In car audio there are typically two options to achieve relatively flat in-car response without much EQ.....low Q/Low Fs and high Q/High Fs. Those two options keep the F3 on the higher side to keep the low end from bloating once cabin gain is considered. The high Q/Fs route may have the problem I noted above of too high of a final Qtc depending on trunk space, which is why I like the lower Q/low Fs option the best as you'll almost always end up with an acceptable Qtc even if you carry some shit in your trunk. High Q low Fs drivers like used in home audio have a very low F3 which when combined with cabin gain needs tweaked to get right and they generally have a very large Vas so they experience an increase in Qtc once installed in a vehicle trunk. What is your budget for subs?

NIce equipment. Seriously though people are retarded where you live or your just that damn lucky.

dayum.... WTF! Life has never turned that good for me.... EVER... I hate you... you should die now.... Also, equipment looks amazing and keep the pics coming and good luck on the build man!

It's gonna use a 4 later flat wire coil (see coil thread) motor force should be in the neighborhood of 150-200. So it's a pretty beefy sub. Qtc will be around .5 give or take a little depending on the size. I designed it so that it will work well in both sealed and ported. All the alignments that I recommend will be bb4 ported alignments with a f3 in the low 30's or high 20's depending on the size. power rating should be around 1,250-1,500 rms but I'll wait for proper klippel power testing to release that. prices are still tentative but should be within 10 bucks give or take: 10" $313 12" $320 15'' $329 18" $346 As long as the T/S parameters come back as expected and I don't have to do any design change on the motor I'm expecting the first run for Christmas.

Go fuck yourself. Don't like it don't buy it. Nobody owes you an explanation