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What happened to when women cooked. WTF! My wife will make a mean desert. Too bad I'm not a bigger sweets fan and diabetic. LoL

Happy Holidays everyone! We're in the mood to give so take this! Free Shipping on any order over $50 now until the 20th! Use coupon code: SnowShipping Don't forget to share this with all of your friends! - The Second Skin Team

Looks like a solid little amp. I'd save some money and get the boston acoustics 2125.

I walked into bio for the final, and the teacher says: "why are you even here? You have an A." I reply: "so I can beat whoever has the 1% higher grade than me. "

Glad we don't have people like that here and the ones we do are watched. This is what he said.. Which was in response to telling a guy that having 175 Ft^2 (100% coverage with multiple layers) of deadner was unnecessary. This is what I said

I suggest having someone on here design a bigger box. You are on the small side of what SSA recommends. It'd be way cheaper to make a box than to buy high powered amps.

Glad we don't have people like that here and the ones we do are watched.

Y u selling Its OG!

Congrats Steve!! Is this #2? yes sir. My son is 2 years and 4 months. Will almost be three when the newest one comes. Wasn't sure if it was 2 or 3. Knew you had a son :)/> That will be a great separation. Ours are nearly 2 years apart and having an only 2 year old and a baby was hell. At 3 he could handle it WAY better. :)/> he's such a little helper now I can't imagine in a year how he will be. He's a busy body, has to stay moving or he goes nuts. He always want a "job" to do.

Got word yesterday afternoon it was done and should have shipped out yesterday.

New baby due in June. Super stoked. Maybe a girl this time??

Jack is almost 100% better. His foot swelling is finally going down. I'm so happy for the little guy. I can never have kids. My dog has an injury and I am about crazy.

If you aren't going to double the power, you probably won't hear a difference. If however you want to buy a better designed/higher quality amp for the hell of it, than ok. If that's the case, I'd strap 2 Zed Minotaurs.

RIP Ravi Shankar

Or more easily stated a drivers parameters are just that, they are the parameters of the driver. ie, you can't change them by doing something unless you alter the driver. Nothing external can change this. This means connecting them in any way to any amplifier. The reason everyone asked you questions is you didn't actually asked your question but used an implied, yet off base reference. If you want a simple answer, ask a simple question. In this case all it would have taken is: Do T/S parameters of a driver change if I wire two 8ohm drivers into a 4 ohm configurations? The answer would be, no. One thing I think you should do for sure is save some budget to pay someone qualified to help you tune. It'll be worth it.

Better for what? The only way to tell what sub is the best in your particular application is to test them all, too many factors to decide. But im pretty sure most will say SSA subs are better, just how it is around here. SSA Icon > American Bass XFL > Sundown SA > Skar VVX I will take American built and wait for them. Thats how much better SSA subs are!

Welcome, you're in better shape than me, I got out in the early 90's. Wow, things changed a lot for me, seems like most old school companies got bought out and everything is made in China. The SSA store sells a few products still made in the USA.

Who's to say he will go lean? You have to understand how it all works. Diesel is a different beast from gasoline, and even so, simply upping fuel pressure or a simple reflash of the computer can supply enough fuel. There are thousands of power adders on the market for every type of engine and many of them do not include new injectors. In many cases the stock injectors are adequate. I have 200 watts of amplification in my vehicle, yet I have 1/0 power cable. If I want to add another 1K, I simply need to add the amp. Nothing else is needed. The same situation could be said in his case for fuel.

I can answer you further Swift- Since this question has to do with a previous thread i was answering earlier, lol.. Don't focus on the final ohm load, which would be 4 ohm, focus on the SOURCE. The Source is single 8ohm per driver. Therefore, you would obey it's TS parameters regardless of wiring configuration. The imaging and tuning technique will by far exceed the ability of the TS parameters to throw off the quality of sound you assume to get at any point during or after installation when comparing the same driver, just different coil preference.

Good point, he can't. (2) 8ohm speakers run parallel = 4ohm load. Does that effect the way the speaker plays at all. Will a speaker have the same quality throughout its freq range if wired that way is the question Let's back up a second. These drivers you keep referring to as "8ohm speakers." Are these the horns your talking about, or midbass drivers? I was presuming horns since you haven't picked a definite set of horns, and therefore hadn't picked a midbass driver yet. If horns, then why would you wire two together, as that would create mono--unless you decided to use 2 per side, and 4 total--which makes no sense. If your taking about using multiple midbass drivers than I retract my previous statement about not being able to do it. My other point was: if your using your headunit for active processing then it doesn't matter what ohm load anything is, the crossover points will not be effected. You know if you simply answered my question instead of asking more questions or trying to figure out what I'm doing this would all be much simpler. What if I want to run my front stage off of a 2 channel amp? Then wouldnt it make sense to run a 8ohm tweeter and a 8ohm mid in parallel at a 4ohm load with the appropriate crossovers in place to do so? And if you did that would the tweeter still play at the same quality as it would if it was wired separately at 8ohms? No it would make sense to buy a four channel amp, and use one channel per driver. Left horn = 1, right horn = 2, left mid = 3, right mid = 4. Putting the left horn + left mid on one channel, and using inline crossovers to separate the signal is a bad idea. You wouldn't be able to adjust the power or gain between the horns and mids, and the impedance change would mess with the crossover design. It literally makes no sense at all to attempt the latter. Its was a real simple question that cant get answered because you are trying to hard too figure out how or what I am doing. It really is a yes or no question. Does a 8ohm speaker play the same wired to 4 ohms as it does at 8ohms? Forget the crossover point, the power, etc. You can't wire one 8ohm speaker to 4ohms, but if you could with magic than it would have the same frequency response. If you wired one 8ohm speaker with another 8ohm load to achieve 4ohms, and the speaker was relying on an inline crossover network that was designed for 8ohms, than the speaker would have a different frequency response due to a change in crossover points. Your like a whiny kid asking if cars run on diesel, but don't want to hear anything regarding a gasoline engine or diesel engine. I never said you can run one single 8ohm speaker to 4ohm. I even said 2 of them parallel the first time you said it. I never said I would run a horn on the same channel as a mid, hell my "example" even says tweeter. not horn but do you honestly think I am that fuckin stupid not to know you cant adjust power between two speakers being run of the same channel. But people do it everyday with components, same thing. See, you never came into this thread offering any advice or help until you found something to disect or disagree with. Maybe my question was a dumb one or you just didnt have enough common sense to understand it, But either way you can go fuck yourself and troll someone else's thread.

People keep in mind the stock injectors do NOT run at their max. In pretty much every vehicle there is room for modififcation expecially diesels. Nine times out of ten, it's simply a matter of upping the supply and/or pressure to the injectors.

SA's are my favorite entry level driver. They take a lot of abuse and sound good while doing it.Yes I have use SA's

Right, I didn't mean solder vs no solder. I was talking about the actual mechanical splicing method to join the wire prior to soldering. This is what the WU splice looks like. After you heat shrink/tape it maintains the same path as the original wire and does not create a larger profile. The way you do it is fine. I wasn't picking on it. Most people have never seen either of the types I do and since I've learned the techniques I never do it any other way. Just making suggestions is all

Who wants to see a teaser for the red rockets. New build? like this comment