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Ur sooo rad bro, can I be your friend and hang out with you?

I think this should be a place for people to learn and share there audio that are truly into it. . I think if someone is acting like that they should be able to get like voted off this site or something.. on these forums you should think of everyone else like your self. It shouldnt matter about looks.personality or anything like that. Its not just some social network to bull shit around on and see how far you can push people. Its about the love of audio and always learning and helping others learn more about what they love also Sorry for the random post I just hate when I see this kind of crap

You guys want to act like children, do it via PM, or take it to another forum.

This fuck should've been banned awhile ago

for reals. the fans are stupid loud. you can replace them because they should just be normal PC 12v fans.

thanks ill print that and take it up there the manager didn't know anything i wish it were blue tho lol yes i do and one of my high are currently blown and disconnected so i was thinking of wiring it in there i understand the risk of mis matching speakers so im skeptical however i would only be running for the movie so 2-3 hours and nowhere near full tilt i like the idea of wiring it to the headunit rear as i have all speakers front anyways my luck i would leave the outside speaker turnt up on accident and geta ticket lulz like i said.... i cannot have the doors open with the key in the ignition without hearing the door chime what kind of mod don't read the entire thread before posting you would love if i made topics to troll but sorry you're out of luck today As for the too "simple a question" argument you have typed.... I looked at some switches at radio shack and almost all had 4-6 inputs on them Idk if there is some specific switch in the car audio world that people use so excuse me How about trying to answer the question M5, since it is so simple You need a single pole switch. Personally I'd use it to allow power to my headunit so I could open the doors without chimes.nice idea but like i said earlier.... me and my friends do not want 2 be sitting behind a car especially one that has the doors open And adding a marine speaker under the hood is more logical than parking backwards? Nice.

Duh, turn your car around backwards shut off the lights and open the doors. Or you could waste money and do what you propose. What part of electrical switch can't you figure out? Seems to me you posted this to excite people, not to actually do this. Question is too simple to be real.

I agree with rick, there's WAY more to it than them just adding the subs and not being happy with it. I would imagine they cut corners to fit the boxes in the vehicles and didn't have good box designs, coupled with a completely different alignment with the vehicles acoustics and they got bad results from poor planning. At least that's my guess on their comments, you're not going to go from awesome to horrible adding more of the exact same sub that was working awesome unless you just plain screwed something up, plain and simple. Now, You've definitely got some good room to work with. Were I in the same shoes as you, I wouldn't hesitate on another pair of DCON's and I do have plans for a quad DCON c-pillar wall build for a project vehicle at some point in the future, but that's me and wouldn't worry about a few other peoples mishaps and flaws.

He is a fucking moron

If you guys are assuming right, the reason for a drop in voltage in the rear is their is no ground run from front to rear. Every vehicle out there i've measured loses between 0.3-1.2v by not having a ground run.

I have the same HU and it has a fantastic set of controls with it's crossovers, eq, DTA etc. but it can be a bit overwhelming if you're not familiar with what all that does or how to use it. In the NORMAL mode it will run the crossovers in the most basic way they can be set. It will only allow high pass filtering for the front and rear speakers and low pass for the sub at 60hz, 90hz, and 120hz. MOST people run their components at around 90hz on the high pass filter, depending on the speakers and amp you may even be able to get by with 60hz. It's no big deal to turn them on and play with which frequencies give you the best sounding response as in your case in that mode it won't do much and you don't have to worry about hurting anything with it. When you turn on the filters it's going to reduce the amount of bass/midbass that plays through the Focal's, plain and simple. The frequency you set it to determines what frequency in the bass/midbass it starts to filter. Not much more to it than that, just keep in mind it's not a shelf or an instant reduction that NOTHING below that plays. It has a roll off, like a hill, and if you think of the frequency setting being at the top of the hill, the frequencies below that setting are gradually reduced in strength as you go farther down the hill. Hope that helps to make some sense of it.

When i changed my control arms I hadn't planned on changing the tie rods. So get ready to attach the tie rods back to the control arms and they just keep spinning Needless to say i had to Bike it back to the parts store for tie rods smh.. And apparently places dont align the camber, so make sure you mark where you took the uppers off at. I just read a couple other forums and apparently it depends on if the shop is being lazy or not or they will charge extra,,,,,,,,,,, On my navi they said they wouldn't smh But im sure UAK lol

Turn everything off. Disconnect the RCAs on the sub amp. Turn the gain all the way down on both the speaker amp and sub amp. Turn headunit on, set everything to zero or flat. Bass 0, treble 0, bass boost off, etc. Play some music, and gradually turn the volume up on the head-unit until it distorts, then back it up until it sounds normal again. IE: volume 25/35 This is about your max volume for the HU. Leave the volume at that max volume, IE: 25. Turn the gain up on the speaker amplifier until it distorts, then back it up until it sounds normal. Turn everything off. Reconnect the RCAs on the sub amp. Disconnect the RCAs on the speaker amp. If your enclosure is sealed than you don't need to mess with the SSF (sub sonic filter) now. If your enclosure is ported than adjust the knob for the SSF until it's a few hertz below your enclosure's tuning. Set the LPF (low pass filter) to 80hz. Turn the headunit on, go to max volume, ie: 25 Play some music with bass you're familiar with / play test tones around 30,40,50hz, doesn't matter much. Turn the gain up until it sounds distorted, and back it up til it's normal again. Turn everything off. Reconnect the RCAs on the speaker amp. Now your speaker amp and sub amp have their gains adjusted to play to their max around that max volume, ie: 25. You'll find that on some music you'll only be able to turn it up to 22, and on others you may go above 25 a bit. Just depends on the recording level of the music. You'll also notice that on some songs the bass may be a bit much, or too little, so you can use the bass level on the head unit to adjust a few clicks up or down. Next thing I would do is confirm that the SSF is correctly set as sometimes the silk screen printed labels are off in relation to the gain adjustment. If your enclosure is sealed than this isn't very important--I'd probably set it around 20hz. If your enclosure is ported, than I'd set a few hz below tuning. Next I would play with the LPF setting, and see if it sounds better lower than or above 80hz. Personally with all the subwoofer drivers I've used I was always happy crossing over in the 50hz range. ------------------------ Your front speakers have passive inline crossovers already, so you probably won't need any of the filters on the speaker amp, so make sure the filters are either OFF, or the LPF is turned all the way up, and the HPF (high pass filter) is turned all the way down. Next you can mess with the treble, mid settings on the headunit if you feel you need it. There's a crash course on making a setup sound half way decent.

the 14.4 before and the 13 after i would look into what kind of fuse holder you have.. it seems to be cunducting poorly, check the connections and look for any corrosion and so forth adding another run would not hurt. why would you play your stereo full tilt at a redlight, that is rude, and give car audio a bad name. please stop, but yes, your amp will start clipping, and your amp can catch on fire from playing with low voltage, not saying it will at 12 volts. but 10 volts yup it sure can.

yea i got banned for making a support obama gun control thread when one of the admin is a real hill billy gun nut they have alot of gun threads and maybe you're onto something the car audio forum tough guys are all old and way past any kind of beginner stuff so far past that they have no patience at all and by old i mean over 25 this sucks for us who are in the middle of nowhere and have barely any car audio help because these guys who are on forum all day have attitudes usually personally i cannot believe they allow the skar bashing here when it is sold in ssa store No one is bashing Skar--only showing the truth Either or it still looks silly and dumb, if the community doesnt like them and they dont serve a puprose here why allow them to sell online at the store. Just leave the forum up so everyone can see their flaws like they did with DC Power Engineering. Just my .02 on the issue Revenue is revenue is my guess.

yea i got banned for making a support obama gun control thread when one of the admin is a real hill billy gun nut they have alot of gun threads and maybe you're onto something the car audio forum tough guys are all old and way past any kind of beginner stuff so far past that they have no patience at all and by old i mean over 25 this sucks for us who are in the middle of nowhere and have barely any car audio help because these guys who are on forum all day have attitudes usually personally i cannot believe they allow the skar bashing here when it is sold in ssa store No one is bashing Skar--only showing the truth.

smd is the best place online for a wide knowledge base but your posts have attitude and you name call new people because what they do is not what you want to do calling people idiots, morons, and dumb asses is why this place is so much more popular than smd, pfffttttttt im not suprised you do not like them or stay here because a couple of your attitude constipated advice posts and they would ban you so fast so when im gone john just remeber you drew this attention to yourself i do not randomly get into beefs with people the way u carry yourself is a joke ive seen a few mods on here tell u to calm down on some threads

He's posted a few pictures of his Setup, although he Deleted the one where he had 2 Sub Boxes, and 2 different sets of Subs.

I just don't understand the need of people to make fun of or talk negatively about others. This forum is for members to share their audio builds, ask for advice, bounce ideas off of others who have the same interests. There's no reason for personal attacks. I just don't get it.

There are many good subs on the market. I believe its more to do with personal preference than anything else. However, what would you like to hear from this sub? Plays low? Loud? Ported? Sealed? And, even more importantly, how much do you want to spend on an amp when it comes time to purchase one? I would certainly try to make sure that whatever sub I chose, I was able to properly and cleanly power it. From the looks of your measurements, your choices may be limited by mounting depth. Make sure to take a look at this spec when shopping for a sub. Sorry, I know I haven't suggested any particular brand. I just think that enclosure size, type, power, etc. is much more important than the actual sub. Hope this helps a little. Best of Luck.

If this guy doesn't know how to wire a switch, do you expect him to think so outside of the box and lock his switch? Or take the buzzer out? He won't be cool in front of his buddies.

Pepboys, autozone, radioshack, you can buy a toggle switch from any of them. Better off just ordering one off Ebay, as I saw a few switches for like $15 each at pepboys Nvm radioshack has them for a decent price

I'm pretty sure you just need a toggle switch from autozone. I think I understand what your doing.

processor

I couldn't possibly agree more^

Don't think this has anything to do with a front stage

Just for a quick run through the numbers, at 30" W x 15" H x 20" D I was able to get 3cuft NET tuned to 32 with 47.25sqin of port area at 3.5" x 13.5". That's a straight up simple L shaped slot port enclosure with a little bracing and no double baffle or anything. We'd have to play around with numbers a little more to get room for a double baffle, 45's, and that sort of stuff, no biggie. That should be a fairly well rounded enclosure. Do you have a preference on sub and port orientation?

After getting the Kenwood DNX9990HD I would opt for their new DNN990HD since it has built in wifi capability as well.

Just put a toggle switch on the remote side of the amplifier and split it on a fused hot wire..never put a switch on the output side of an amp, that's not a good idea.

Yes you could replace them with quieter pc fans if you wanted

Youtube is a silly way to compare things. If you are happy with your two 15's then I would think that four on twice the power would be a great option. What are your goals? What do you like/dislike about your current setup?

If you double cone area and power it should be quite a bit louder as long as you have enough space. We can definitely help with an enclosure if you decide to do it.

I am thinking this might make a fun job for Friday. The 4runner has 91,000 on her and I figure I may as well keep her as nimble as she can be. Also it is nice having my FIL running a partstore.

Oh, you SO do NOT want to see my trunk.

i know it's possible but wouldnt the amp be shut off or in protect by that time? At the very least, there would be no sound output, that's a given, but at the same time.. if the amp no longer works.. can't really blame the sub now can we, It would be in protect if it had that circuitry. Then it would cost more and these $4-500 2000 watt amplifiers just don't have that. And if they did, it would be the cheapest protection possible. There is a reason cheap products are cheap. Of course, there are also a lot of overpriced cheap products too. The industry is skarred with junk.

The tinsel lead is hooked to a coil homie..you have a rearword / back traveling EMF shooting back up the wire of the coil from the magnet being 'switched' and the cone moving back up.. Then the amplifier gates on the fets are telling it to go back down..when it's trying to go back up, and heat starts building up in the leads when the gates are switching at X frequency of the mosfets in the output stage. This is a combination of the EMF trying to go out of the coil, through the tinsel leads, and back into the amplifier...and the amplifier trying to tell everything to go back the other way. It crashes in the tinsel leads and that is where the stress point is, from movement, to heat, to high frequency noise, to EMF. There's a whole host of issues all popping up at the exact same spot and if it all lines up the same way it glows and explodes. You see an ice cube here, the coil around the ice cube is the exact same thing as the coil that is inside of the motor of the speaker..there's no difference there.

The only way to "retune" your enclosure would be to rebuild it. However, if you are not getting the low end you are wanting then yes it would need to be tuned lower. However, if you tune lower you will lose some of that upper end you are currently getting. You will still likely "peak" spl wise in the same spot though or at least close to it.

Yea that's normal. I think its because the vehicle has a resonant frequency and gets louder at certain frequencies.

Don't use the CLD to stop rattles, they're for adding mass to a panel to stop resonances. There is a difference even though both have to do with unwanted vibrations, lol. I would adhere to the 25% coverage rule for the CLD and get a good bit of CCF to stop rattles and noises from panels and such vibrating into each other.

I work at a custom car shop that does tint as the main selling point. That shop can order you 20% damn it lmao. Seriously. I wouldn't recommend doing two layers. If you drive a lot in the dark, in a dick county or w/e, then I wouldn't recommend 15%. I knew the legal is 35% here. That is a pretty big price difference though.. Do some more shoping around, and, if you have to shell out more money, just know your getting your money's worth. Window tinting, especially with warrenty should be a permenant job. So its a one time fee. If you want to look at it that way.l

like i said.... i cannot have the doors open with the key in the ignition without hearing the door chime what kind of mod don't read the entire thread before posting you would love if i made topics to troll but sorry you're out of luck today As for the too "simple a question" argument you have typed.... I looked at some switches at radio shack and almost all had 4-6 inputs on them Idk if there is some specific switch in the car audio world that people use so excuse me How about trying to answer the question M5, since it is so simple

You are the guy that buys the two small pepperoni pizzas for three bucks more than the large even though it is 15% less food. you are the 1 of the guys that scares away the potential new customer with your attitude problem

What do you think you will achieve at the drive in? Set up your front stage properly and you won't need a center channel.

just buy a boombox and a shit load of batteries Endthread

He's posted a few pictures of his Setup, although he Deleted the one where he had 2 Sub Boxes, and 2 different sets of Subs. oh very clean.. well i guess ill just go home.. i just got bested by the king of audio

there is plenty of pointless skar bashing on here so much that i think they're trash yet do not know why they use cheap chinese labor.... ok so does sundown bottomline by bashing skar the way u guys do u are taking the profit that ssa would make from people buying in the store all thats offtopic HERE IS THE REAL SHIT bigjohn i am sorry to have made u stomp your feet and get your fingers all bunched when you type but from your demeaner on here i assumed you could take some playful shit talking pms and maybe talk some car audio too i have pm'd almost every regular on here at least once i guess my approach with u was a bad idea as you are emo

lol so please share with us your "likes" of this sub... please. secondly buying a sub based on a Xmax figure is like buying a sports car because it has an ash tray