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Regardless of any speaker..period..they are ALL going to get warm. Any and all speakers from a mechanical energy standpoint are horridly inefficient. They basically work like a hair dryer. The coil in a hair dryer isn't that much diferent than a coil in a speaker, the fan motor in the back of the hair dryer blows air over top of the coil that is wound to induce heat. The coil in a speaker moves converting electrical energy into acoustical output that you hear with your ears. The only problem is that well over 95% of the energy that is put into the coil is not used and is lost in the transfer process and is burned off as nothing more than wasted heat energy. The amplifier applies power to the coil..in which it heats up. The whole point is to a) don't get a bullshit amp that cheaps out on parts that causes inductive heating and b) when you smell the coil glue turn it down. I've done that for years..with no scope..no dd-1..not a damn thing and have yet to blow a speaker or burn anything up. Of course, this was before the days of full retard "BASS BOOSTED" music when things were actually recorded..decently. Some of the shit music that is out there today is most definitely the problem behind people burning everything up. It's not rocket surgery..it's brain science.

Easy.......sounds like shit......back it down.

when i first got into music it was home audio. i had (and still have) sony dual 8" floor standing speakers. they would smell like you wouldn't believe but they never blew. i read online and had friends say that all speakers smell like this, its there break in period and its how you know you are using your speaker to its fullest potential. of course i was 15 at the time and believed this. i would turn the speakers up loud enough to hear the coils smacking into the magnet, sounded like a hammer on a rail road tie. still i never blew the sonys. move onto car audio and i started off wanting to recreate this... with disastrous results. when my SP4 burnt up i couldnt understand how a kicker 2500.1 could set fire to such a powerful sub and after i had it oscoped at that. live and learn is all any of us can do.

well.. try not to listen to your nose, it may sound smelly.

The only thing shocking to me is how often this topic pops back up. If you at all spent even 30 seconds searching this site you'd have never bought the DD-1. Proven over and over and over again. There is only ONE purpose the DD-1 serves. And that purpose is to put money in SMD's pocket.

Because no matter what you use, one of two things will happen- Your source material used to setup an amp is either going to be too low(like in your example) or too high(technically that's safe but you would always keep the amp in a state of outputting lower power). So.. the best way is just to use your ears and nose. Test tones are single frequencies. Music is dynamic which cannot be measured properly, even with a clipping indicator. IE- some people, like I, like to get an idea of how the gain is set on the amp, power-wise, when driving 3-7x the rated power to a sub for certain styles of competition. That doesn't mean by my findings i will prevent thermal failure.. No, it gives me an idea of the time i will have and when to start looking for thermal failure. This is also valid for proper fusing in competition, etc.. But notice how i keep bringing up competition. For daily driving, you do not need anything made by SMD and that's a fact. Should be in science books.

little hammer and a screwdriver..don't hit it too hard or you'll crack the basket. if you do it right it'l pop right off

There can never be to much carbon fiber...

Can't tell if troll thread or serious. lol

i dont know.. Your copper is oxidizing in those pics, hehe.

Gave everyone +1 to get as many people back to neutral (or positive) as possible

i seen a few of your vids with the 4 15's on utube ... im working on the build for 4 warden 15's right now ... so brace your self ooooh and look me up on utube beajay25 .. i got about 20 vids on there

Why would anyone really want to "max out the potential of their subs"? Are you competing, or just being that asshole riding down the street forcing me to listen to your shitty music? Anyways, no a clip indicator is not going to work as well as a $5K scope, in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. Next, if you are afraid that you are clipping your amp, buy a more powerful amp. Headroom is a good thing. Every single component in every single one of my systems has an amplifier that is rated at significantly more power then each component is rated at. Set the amps correctly, listen for stresses in the system, then dial it back. Why would you want to buy an amplifier that you have to push to it's limits just to achieve your desired goal? You are pushing linearity, risking clipping, and building heat. None of these are beneficial to your expensive components. Would I buy a Smart car to make the run from LA to Vegas at 100MPH, or would it make more sense to buy a Corvette to make that same run? Pushing a Smart car to it's absolute limit is not beneficial to the vehicle, but the Vette will have a ton of headroom. Set the system at 0db for daily driving use. There is no need to push it beyond that. I am also quite sure that your subs drown out your front stage... awesome. I would dial it back further to blend well with the front stage, but I doubt your ultimate goal is sound quality. All my systems subs are set at 0db with my ears (I am listening for stress, not clipping), and then all are dialed back via the remote to achieve a flat system, not an overboosted bass heavy rattle trap. That way if someone wants to hear what my subs can do, I can safely show them, but when I actually want to enjoy my system, I can easily dial it back to normal listening levels in just a few seconds.

I've heard drugs can help people lose weight. You don't see overweight people at raves...