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This is what I been workin on over the past month or 2. And thanks everyone for the help.icons an nendo sound great.I've never had anything like it..still gotta get an extra battery and alternator.I pulled a 139.9db today was all it would do before it started starving for power.also that's a dc creation box tuned at 30hz.got it in yesterday.thx everyone for the help once again.

The dcons and gcons are unavailable at this time. The enclosure is too small for two 12" gcons but could work for the last generation dcons. The enclosure is perfect for the 15" icon which would be my choice. Please do not use the term SQL, There is no such thing as sound quality loudness, it sounds like you are asking for a subwoofer that will not sound like crap. Do you have any pictures of said enclosure?

Wow this is a long sale! I convinced a friend to get an Xcon for his jeep. He is begging me to get one for him when I built a box and sold an Xcon to his brother lol He is getting his tax money soon and I'll be getting him one! This sale is gonna help him out too

Enclosure is already mostly done. That aspect of the truck I probably won't share too much though.I'm going for multiple world records with this one so I will keep a few things 'close to the chest' Things I'm still waiting on are: 1) finish the sanding and glassing the enclosure. 2) amps. 3) order and run power wires. 4) figure out the dual alt set up. And purchase them. 5) sound deadener. I'm in the process of moving, buying and selling my homes, so it's a little back burnered right now. I'm moving my family from Houston to Dallas. About 4.5 hours away.

Thanks guys. A+

score

i ordered two zcon 18s and a saz 5000 yesterday im gonna get carboard today and see how much air space I have under the window line and hopefully not have to go much higher and could anyone help with a box design?

Don't forget we are doing a group buy right now for Taramp's so we can decide what to stock from them that meets the demands of this country's market. All mono amplifiers below 10,000w can be built for 1 or 2 ohm stability. a 3,000w amp @2ohms is being sold for under $450 shipped. They are extremely lightweight and small and can fit practically anywhere.

Welcome to SSA

He got it... He's sayin it's better to be the best with less than everyone else. That's what his installs are about. A simple component set up with 8in low end kicks. That's all he needs to keep up with people running 3x that equipment. Keep it simple, keep it clean...

Sean, get off his damn threads. It's obvious you always pick on his setups. If you want him to change something. I can get his Paypal info for you, I'm sure he would love the funds to do so...

Not to thread jack, but can building up your electrical help enough to see a difference at the meter? For instance I only have a 270a alt diehard platinum under hood and a small stinger 35a battery in back. Im running two sub amps and one highs amp. Would I see a gain by adding more batts or would it be the same and only be able to hold notes longer before losing db?

on a home audio system let's say a 2 way setup where you have the tweeter and the midrange drivers in the exact same enclosures (as in a left and right cabinet) ... Would you time align the tweetes and midrange drivers separately ??? I have all the time in the world to get this thing set up the way I want ...thats the beauty of building a street machine yourself !!! Randal, I NEVER said anything about time alignment. Just passive or active. As for your other question of passive not working, I'd NEVER say that either. However, with the amount of work you are putting into this using off the shelf crossovers is asinine. If you build custom passives based on in situ measurements then is all I have to say. Personally I am too lazy for that in a car when running active is so much easier. Off the shelf passives are designed with a TON of compromises. Considering the enclosure building, location manipulation and so many steps you are putting into this car to make it sweet not doing the same on the crossovers would be a crying shame.

I'd of course say the same about using any driver from a set that includes a passive as well, but thought I'd leave that comment separate. The goal here is to utilize your install space as much as possible and not compromise there. You have only so many places you can put things in your car, choosing a specific driver that has an optimal response for that location will do wonders. Using a component set will just be lackluster in comparison. This of course is further exacerbated by the fact that you have the locations to build actual enclosures and sets with passives are never optimized for that sort of install. It is akin (and worse) than using a sub that is designed for a large ported enclosure in a small sealed.

Its cool bro ... When the time gets here (with my luck and budget ... might be a while), we will do what is best for the car ... hell, I've got to get the seats correctly mounted and mocked up so we can measure something. I just got the seat frame welded together yesterday.And the passive crossovers I'm running are FAR FROM "Off the shelf passive crossvers" ... I know you don't like them ... but is cool, life would suck if I didn't get to piss off atleast one person a day ... LOL If they aren't designed in situ then they are "off the shelf"

I never asked, just was letting you know the effort/cost of the install is being SEVERELY limited by your driver choice. As for me coming to an event, not sure how that pertains at all to the discussion at hand. Just an FYI. Designing new passives to use in situ will cost more than new drivers.

And there it is again. You pasted this into your thread. I'd tried to leave it elsewhere. It is really audio 101. Wasting money is worse than spending it. Your choice. If you want to meet then travel to something worth visiting. And lol to the attitude you "aren't changing anything"

Umm, I didn't bring this up in his thread. He took a post in a discussion outside of this thread and chose to quote it in here so I responded. For some reason he likes the drama. Amusingly he finally shared his real problem there as well. He is sponsored and cannot choose different drivers. Explains why he would use something so misplaced for the install. In his other thread and this one that teeny bit of information could have changed a bunch of things. As for picking on his setups. This is an audio forum. What he is doing is akin to someone coming on a Mustang forum and transplating a 4cyl to try and make it faster. Utilizing the wrong motor for the goals at hand is silly. Same can be said about drivers. It'd be rather rude to not offer to help someone who is posting on a forum that specializes in the task at hand. Of course to keep the analogy true, if that person on the Mustang forum was offered a ridiculous 4cyl engine for free that made similar power to an 8 but at next to no cost for the OP it could be a reasonable solution. Still strange, but financially reasonable. If that poster didn't share that as a parameter though everyone would consider it stupid since for all non-financial reasons it would be.

"What he is doing is akin to someone coming on a Mustang forum and transplating a 4cyl to try and make it faster." Mustangs come in v6 and v8, so why would someone swap it for a 4 cylinder? Sean is saying that if this happened to be a mustang forum and someone started a thread "4 cyl swap" with the idea of making his car faster he would get told that it was a stupid idea. This is an audio forum.....see the analogy?

Randal to clarify this is the first time you've EVER stated you were sponsored by Blues on this forum. You instead chose to complain about $$ instead. If you have to run something you have to run it. And Rick actually followed. I didn't say make a 4 cyl fast, I was referring to as he says to yank a V8 and replace it with a 4. If you go reread you'll see that taking things in context helps. As of course would the quotes you are misrepresenting of mine. I surely said nothing in car audio will impress me, but what you left out was that I was comparing it to home audio.