Leaderboard

I have three AA subs for sale, all are brand new, never seen power, used for photos on the SSA store. These are the actual woofers pictured in these photos Save over MAP price. ASCENDANT AUDIO CHAOS 10D2 $249 SHIPPED IN THE US 48! ASCENDANT AUDIO HAVOC 10D1 $369 SHIPPED IN THE US 48! ASCENDANT AUDIO MAYHEM 10D1 $489 SHIPPED IN THE US 48! These subs are built, sitting here, ready to ship. Will ship same day payment is received. PayPal: [email protected] with model # in title. CHAOS 10" HAVOC 10" MAYHEM 10"

I took it pretty easy on them, I didn't want to break anything the first day lol

I have one run of street wires 0 guage ofc front to back and same cable for rear ground. Big three is also the same. Rear battery is a walmart marine deep cycle (don't remember size but was one of the biggest they had. Front battery is just a regular replacement battery. As far as the testing I put the meter on lower passenger side windshield and went from 50hz down in 2hz intervals and peaked at 42 then tried around that and did my peak at 43hz with driver door open. I didnt experiment with seat positions or anything like that. Never been around any comps or anything. I'll do some pics and videos. I got the kids and neighbors so I'll get them when I can. Btw thanks for the advice.

What for? Hopefully not a car. Super tweeters have NO place in car audio.

nice progress

great guy GLWS

Have any been in contact with them? Why do you hate it? They're built to order, I would say it's damn near impossible for them to do that and not have a wait time.

speakers don't get "old" hell I still slam some that are probably older than you.

The fact I almost doubled power and didnt gain on the meter is weighing heavily on me. I mean shit, I could sell the second amp and do alot with that money. Or just hold out and put that power to good use later when the Tridents come out. At this point its all the enclosure holding the numbers back. I kinda wanted more port area to begin with but really wanted to try this enclosure since it was just sitting at my office. I can bondo and smooth a ton of places but ultimately I think I will rebuild to a more smoothed out design and drivers side port. I should have clamped the amp to see what power I was making but didnt want to see full tilt until I felt comfortable with the subs handling the power. Which they do. It feels stronger but I think I am having massive flex issues between the doors, roof and windshield holding back aswell. I wasnt shooting for a spl or a numbers build but it sure feels good when you meet the goals that you set yourself.

With that equipment a 140 should be easy out the gate unless it is something terribly wrong with the install.

I would be more concerned about why the fuse was blown.

Not bad for your first time. Once the subs break in it will get alittle louder and lower, seal off from the trunk and I would imagine it will be around a 42 but dont get hung up on numbers. They are secondary and almost meaningless. just chase the sound your after, once you do that if it numbers high good but if not who cares.

Holy Crap! $1.02 /ft for 2/0 through Aug 1st. http://www.electronbeam.com/ Nice tip! Buying some now. How about a hint to what's in store?

Same comments agreeing with Ryan. I fucking hate ANYTHING on an amp. Hell if it weren't for thermal noise I don't even care about the gain knob. I just want a noiseless gain block. Heatsink and wire input output and nothing else. The smaller the better.

I see huge potential here. I am already saving for these. This is the way it should all be done. I miss pure gain blocks! I hope you make a proprietary heat sink design as well.

Uhhh yea it was a blown fuse from front bat to rear... Probably should have checked that first. Charging at 14.4-14.5 now

Working with a high end OEM'er. May have a raw driver and tweeter or two for Xmas.

You could use 18 awg, 16 awg, 12 awg, 10awg. It doesn't really matter unless your amplifier is an extreme distance away from your subwoofer. You will see no benefit using 10 awg vs 16 awg. Again, for speaker wire, it doesn't make a measurable difference using OFC or CCA. Use whatever you would like. If your wire burns up, its too small. Otherwise it's completely fine. Mistake me if I'm wrong, but more heat creates more resistence, in a dumb down version yes?

That way, I have 0 voltage loss, more power. you also have a bit overkill in the selection of ladies available to you... just sayin'

183

are you doing a build log? you should.